Any times with a CPT 61 mm? (Turbonetics)

Savageite

Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
I was just trying to see what other guys were running with a similar setup to what I'm running. If you could post up your times with some details such as boost and your 60 ft. that would be great. So far my best on that turbo is a 11.70 @ 114 with a 1.70. I'm hopeing on heading to the track this Fri. with some more boost and hopefully a new best.
 
I have this turbo on my '87 Red Turbo T. I've only had it up to 21lbs boost and ran a best of 118.9mph on street tires. Only a 2.0 60ft. This was on a pump gas/alky tune. I've now got the alky on a dual nozzle setup. With maybe a pound or two more boost I should be able to go mid 11s in the low 120s on street tires. Having fun with the street tires as with any kind of sticky tire I'll need a roll bar. I've gone 113.9mph at 19lbs boost on just pump gas with no alky on street tires, which would be an easy mid 11 on stickies.

I've got a good flowing combo though. Champion irons, Champion ported intake, 206/206 roller cam, V4 stock location IC, TA headers, 3" DP and an electric cutout that I open at the track.

What is your full combo?
 
Yeah I read about your runs on Magna. I didn't know that was with the same turbo I am running. I have a totally stock motor. CAS V2 SLIC I believe it's the smaller of the two.. it's 21 row, Razor Alky, 3200-3400 Vig. converter, 60 lb injectors, LCA's, no front sway bar, TT chip, THDP, 3" single shot and I'm probably missing some small stuff.
 
You're gonna need more boost than I run to get the same mph since you still have a stock engine. With a stock cam, make sure you keep the rpms down too. If you are not locking the converter, you'll have some high rpms at the end of the track.

Its a multidisc converter? With a stock cam and the converter locked, I'd use a 27" tall tire. With a stock cam and the converter unlocked, I think you'll run out of rpm to go much faster even with a 28" tire. Then you could look at getting a bigger cam that pulls to a higher rpm, or you'll have to lock the converter up top to bring the rpms down.

On a stock engine, it seems to get harder to improve once you get to that mid 11 and 114-115mph range. I'd look at improving the 60ft more than turning up the boost if all you want to do is improve the ET. You should be able to get down into the 1.5s at that power level. That would put you in the high 11.4s to low 11.5s changing nothing else. You have the converter, so its either the tune (too rich) or you're not leaving hard enough, assuming you are not spinning.

Also, if its a TT alky chip it could be pulling the timing early in the run hurting the 60ft, especially if you are leaving somewhat soft. Post up some logs if you have any and I'll take a look.
 
Yes it's a multidisc converter. I have never locked it. Also i"m running a 28" tire. (275/60/15 M.T. DR) The 11.70 run was actually my first pass with that turbo and converter, then I had some issues and thats the last time I ran the car. I launched at about 6-7 lbs of boost but my brakes hold pretty good so I will try to get it up to about 10 lbs. on the launch next time out. As far as the logs I actually just hooked up my powerlogger and I'm going to have to borrow someones laptop to log some runs. Finally I am running the TT Alky chip. But like I said I have no logs yet to see what the car is really doing. Thanks for the help so far though.
 
Those converters are known to be very inefficient when not locked. You probably won't gain much more up top with it unlocked because you are probably already at 5400-5500 rpm across the traps, so you'll need to improve on the 60ft if you keep it unlocked.

I've heard the multidiscs are pretty hard on the tranny when you lock them at WOT, but they also lock very well. I bet you gain 3 or 4 mph if you lock it. I would try locking it at different speeds in 3rd to see where the biggest gain is. If you lock it too soon in 3rd, it could lug it a little since it brings down the rpms so much. If you lock it at around the 1/8th you should be ok though.

Try to get some logs when you run. They will tell the story. :cool:
 
Those converters are known to be very inefficient when not locked. You probably won't gain much more up top with it unlocked because you are probably already at 5400-5500 rpm across the traps, so you'll need to improve on the 60ft if you keep it unlocked.

I've heard the multidiscs are pretty hard on the tranny when you lock them at WOT, but they also lock very well. I bet you gain 3 or 4 mph if you lock it. I would try locking it at different speeds in 3rd to see where the biggest gain is. If you lock it too soon in 3rd, it could lug it a little since it brings down the rpms so much. If you lock it at around the 1/8th you should be ok though.

Try to get some logs when you run. They will tell the story. :cool:

Yeah I've heard the same. The tranny is built by Michaels in N.J. and I spoke to him and he said if I lock the converter it won't last to long. One day I will probably pull out the Vig. and go with a PTC non-lockup. But I will defintally try to log the runs so I can show the experts what's going on. :D I'll probably post them in the MAGNA forum also.
 
A 0 pump Vigilante will be pretty efficient at that power level. When you have the power to trap in the 120's they become inefficient.
 
A 0 pump Vigilante will be pretty efficient at that power level. When you have the power to trap in the 120's they become inefficient.

I don't think they are efficient unlocked.

Unfortunately, if you are not locking the multidisc you are probably missing out on its best feature. You are probably turning some high rpms at the top end of the track, so adding more boost is probably not going to gain you as much as it should with the stock cam.

Not much you can do except work on the 60ft. The cheapest thing is probably to look at upgrading the cam vs upgrading the tranny, or maybe putting in another converter. Unless you can change the converter yourself and convert to nonlock yourself, then it wouldn't be too expensive. You could probably sell the converter for a good price.

Good luck, keep us updated.
 
Throw a manual lockup switch in there and try it locked at 80 in third.
 
I don't think they are efficient unlocked.

Unfortunately, if you are not locking the multidisc you are probably missing out on its best feature. You are probably turning some high rpms at the top end of the track, so adding more boost is probably not going to gain you as much as it should with the stock cam.

Not much you can do except work on the 60ft. The cheapest thing is probably to look at upgrading the cam vs upgrading the tranny, or maybe putting in another converter. Unless you can change the converter yourself and convert to nonlock yourself, then it wouldn't be too expensive. You could probably sell the converter for a good price.

Good luck, keep us updated.

I can change the converter myself but I have no idea what to do to change the tranny to a nonlock up. But I will defintally try to work on the 60 ft. first and then go from there.
 
non lockup conversion isnt hard .
get the tci kit
you remove the check ball from the input shaft and youll need to drop the pan and unbolt the lockup solenoid , insert a plug

i would do as suggested and just install a manual lock switch to pin F on the aldl and other side of switch to ground and try locking at the 1/8mile marker

btw those multi disc converters can be hard on parts , most today would recommend billet parts with their use since TR's are going much faster than years ago,
i wouldnt lock it before or during a shift , the multi has a brutal rpm drop when it locks
 
Well I bought the tranny from youdlose (Art).. then I spoke to Mike who did the work to it and he pretty much told me that if I lock it up it's not going to last that long. He said it's built for a low 11 high 10 sec. car. How much do you think a used multi disk would be worth? In case I do go to a PTC.
 
They are expensive converters, $950 new or something like that. You could probably sell it pretty quick for $450.

You could probably get away with a 10" nonlock PTC, a little over $500 I think. I think the 9.5" PTC nonlock race converter would be overkill, as I think its made for more like mid to upper 5k rpm range before it gets efficient. The 10" nonlock is probably what Dusty would recommend. It will be easier on your transmission compared to locking the multidisk, and will be a lot more efficient compared to an unlocked multidisk. You won't even be out much money and you should gain some mph and it will better match your combo.

You may want to spec a converter from Dusty and go a little on the tight side for stall since you are on a stock cam. You'll want to keep the rpms down. However, the turbo does need a decent stall to get going, so I'd still keep it in the 3000 stall range. The tradeoff being it might spool a little slower, but you'll be more efficient up top.

I'm running a TCI streetfight converter in my TH400 with the CPT 61 turbo. Spool could be faster, but its pretty efficient up top. Stall is around 3000 or so.
 
They are expensive converters, $950 new or something like that. You could probably sell it pretty quick for $450.

You could probably get away with a 10" nonlock PTC, a little over $500 I think. I think the 9.5" PTC nonlock race converter would be overkill, as I think its made for more like mid to upper 5k rpm range before it gets efficient. The 10" nonlock is probably what Dusty would recommend. It will be easier on your transmission compared to locking the multidisk, and will be a lot more efficient compared to an unlocked multidisk. You won't even be out much money and you should gain some mph and it will better match your combo.

You may want to spec a converter from Dusty and go a little on the tight side for stall since you are on a stock cam. You'll want to keep the rpms down. However, the turbo does need a decent stall to get going, so I'd still keep it in the 3000 stall range. The tradeoff being it might spool a little slower, but you'll be more efficient up top.

I'm running a TCI streetfight converter in my TH400 with the CPT 61 turbo. Spool could be faster, but its pretty efficient up top. Stall is around 3000 or so.

My 9.5 non lock will couple as low as 4500 rpm if I want it to so it can work very well with the stock cam yet still spool very well with a 2800-3000 stall.
 
Well I ran the car tonight and didn't do to hot. The best run of the night was a 12.17@ 112mph. with a 1.75 60 ft. I finally got the powerlogger working so I got to log some runs and I ended pulling a little fuel out because the o2's were a little over 800. I was hopeing to be at least in the 11's but nothing broke so I'm happy with that.
 
I went 11.82@120.2mph with a 1.99 60ft last night on the 255/60 street tires (BFG Radial TAs), a new best mph. Also went a best street tire ET of 11.75 on another pass. Was at 23lbs boost, maybe less. Timing was at 22/19 on pump gas and alky. EGT in the upper 1500s, O2s ending at 760s at the top end of the track.

Post up your Powerlogger files, I'll take a look.
 
I'll try to post a log but I don't know if I saved it. It was my first time using the logger so I was still getting use to it. It also seemed like I had a boost issue because once I was in 3rd. The boost guage would start fluttering sometimes. An exhaust leak wouln't cause that right?
 
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