Any problems if I install a 195F Thermostat?

[copo]

It's fixed!!! Maybe the garage created a air pocket?

gofstbuick : when you say TB are you talking about the thin coolant hoses that go into the steel tub and this tube runs into the core hoses. I got all the air out. I'm just leaving it. I don't want to touch the TB.

Thx for all your help guys, I never ever had a air lock in any car before, not even the Z. I didn't think this was the problem. Either did the garage.

 

[gofstbuick]

There is a pair of steel hoses that connect the heater core to the intake manifold and water pump. On each of those steel tubes is a smaller tube that connects to the throttle body. They heat the throttle body (with coolant) and promote faster warmup. Some members bypass these two ports. If your does not use a bypass, then you'll need to purge the air from those little hoses (as explained above). Air pockets not only cause the problem you just encountered, but will promote corrosion. My steel heater hoses deteriorated and I had to have a new one fabricated. I tried ordering a supposedly reproduction unit from a vendor (who shall remain nameless) and it was a POS. Plus the paint was chipped on it (probably from the last person it was sent to and after finding out about the crappy fit chucked it as far as he/she could, only to realize it needed to be returned for a refund). After I had the large pieces bent, I had a AC shop sweat the small tubes into the large tube (I measured and marked the positions, so everything would line up). I then had the unit yellow cadmium plated and painted it black (like the factory unit). Cost about $75 and was a better piece than that $150 repro POS.

 

[copo]

Ok guys, my problem is still there. No heat.
Here's the test I've done tonight.

If I remove the rad cap off this is the only way the rad starts to flow and get hot and create heat in the car. With a meat thermometer I hit 190F.

If I install the cap and go for a drive the engine cools down. I can remove the cap without any spray. When I take the rad cap off and check the temp of the coolant without the car running it's at 145F.
I've tried the 15lb RC27 rad cap from the Z28 and the results are the same.

So is my Tstat acting up? It's going back to the garage for the 3rd time Fri.

 

[TurboJim]

Re: ???

Originally posted by Chuck Leeper
, look at the heater control valve and check to see it has vacuum to it.

Actually, vacuum is only applied when told to shut, as in AC on and on cold. Otherwise there should be no vacuum to the heater control valve. And make sure the arm is extended if its a factory type valve, or if a plastic replacement you really cant see if its open/closed from the outside. I have seen them stick closed/partially closed, from a previous time using AC.

But all good advice. My advice to add is to feel the 2 heater hoses. If theyre HOT then you have a air director door prob, if one is hot and the other is cold, you have a core flow problem, if theyre both lukewarm, then you have a engine temp problem

 

[TurboJim]

Originally posted by 6pack
Should face in towards the engine

I dont know what you mean by this, but the spring is the hot side and goes in the intake, the "pointed" part on most cars points to the radiator

I also agree that it sounds airbound. What you can do it pop off one of the heater hoses AT THE CORE, and see if the level in the radiator goes down. If it does, then there was air in the system, and simply fill the radiator back up. I say pull a heater hose off because air rises to the highest point in the system, and that is the highest point.

I've had HUGE problems getting VW's to bleed, and if theres the slightest bit of air in them, they act as if the Tstat is NG. ie: not sufficient flow, and the fan doesnt come on till its about to overheat. Air in the system can really fool you. Do as I said above to ensure all air is out, and see what happens

 

[scottyb]

Originally posted by copo
Ok guys, my problem is still there. No heat.
Here's the test I've done tonight.

If I remove the rad cap off this is the only way the rad starts to flow and get hot and create heat in the car. With a meat thermometer I hit 190F.

If I install the cap and go for a drive the engine cools down. I can remove the cap without any spray. When I take the rad cap off and check the temp of the coolant without the car running it's at 145F.
I've tried the 15lb RC27 rad cap from the Z28 and the results are the same.

So is my Tstat acting up? It's going back to the garage for the 3rd time Fri.

Now this is getting creepy.
Is there a Tstat installed?

 

[Silver 6]

Lisa's Regal ran fine, heat was OK until it got real cold outside and the defroster would then have a hard time keeping the front windshield clear. It was a bad thermostat. It wasn't completely closing. When the car sat the slower water flow allowed it to heat pretty good and there was no air moving through the radiator, but on the road there was always cooling going on.

 

[copo]

A new Tstat was replaced this morning and there is no change. So the garage is ordering a heater core from GM. And it goes back in probably Mon.

Yesterday was -3F, today it's 10F. Great time for heating problems. Wish I lived in Az, FL or CA.

 

[Razor]

I burb the system by placing a long funnel into the neck and filling it half way with water. I then grab the upper radiator hose and squeeze it. a bunch of times. To purge it. Youll see the air bubbles.

If you had a scanmaster it would read coolant temp on one of its screens.

Does water circulate when cold? In other words if the motor is old and you open the cap does it circulate? If not, then the stat may be ok.

Sounds like bad T-stat or huge air pocket in the lines...

Good luck.. dont think its the heater core.

 

[copo]

Water circulates when hot. The heater core was not GM so who knows why it doesn't produce enough heat.

 

[copo]

Finally fixed.

Make sure you order your heater core from GM. I had a heater core from a Rad Shop and it didn't produce any heat. I don't know the internal core differences but I have lots of heat now. The non GM core only produced 87F at the front dash vents on hot/heater with and without a piece of cardboard in the grill. In the city the GM core produced 122F and the highway 124F and if I step on it it'll read 146F. I was in a 2 yr old Olds Alero and in the city going 30mph it gives off 146F.

 

[scottyb]

Dang. Maybe it was a bad apple that didn't flow or something.

Glad to see you got it fixed.