Aluminum Radiator for a GN
- Thread starter Woody
- Start date
For those of you buying F-body radiators, make sure you check them closely. I went through 3 different Auto Zones checking all of them they had in and ALL of them were horribly out of square. Something like that makes me question the quality of the rest of the build.
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Excellent write up.But may I suggest a company called SETRAB for trans & oil coolers they make a 14 or 18 row cooler that's compact & will do the job youv'e described. LouSuperCPA said:If you absolutely do not want an F-body radiator, here is what I posted to help another member at another location. You can take what you need and apply it to your situation if you want:
This is lengthly, but; I think that it will give you a complete solution. Performing the following steps has created a system that after doing so, has dropped my engine temps from 215 to a maximum of 180. This, however, is while running the A/C in the 100+ heat of summer here in North (DFW) Texas. Running my engine in the stagging lanes actually cools it down after my run. Once is cools down to about 165 I shut it off. You should see the strange looks I get from the other guys while doing this.
1. If I remember correctly, the dual fans that I bought from Ramchargers are exactly the same units that are installed on the Dodge Stratus vehicles from the factory. I would stay away from the other versions like Flex-lite. They are very noisy, more expensive and most do not pull as much cfm as does the dual fan unit you are seeking.
2. Buy the RaceTronix dual fan harness kit. Even though the adapter will plug directly into the factory harness, it will eliminate the possiblility of the fans toasting your factory wiring harness from the high amperage. It is clean, plug and play and easy to install. The link to this kit is http://www.racetronix.com/RX-G7-DFH.html.
3. For about $210.00 I had a local radiator shop rebuild my stock unit. They replaced my stock core with a tripple row, large tube core. This type of core is as wide as a four row, but; it is less expensive and more efficient at flow and transfer of heat. The other, and possibly most important part, is to find a shop that will build you dividers (one on each side) inside the tanks. This will force the coolant to pass accross the radiator three times before it is allowed to re-enter the block. In other words, ask them to build you a tripple pass unit. If they don't know what you are talking about, then you probably shouldn't use them. I also had them solder four bolts to the exterior of the tanks. This allowed me to mount the fans flush against the radiator using the ears already molded into the fan shroud. Be sure to mount the unit as high on the radiator as possible to clear the factory steering box. Take your time to test fit this before marking your attachment points for the bolts. If performed properly, very little modification of the shroud will be necessary. I believe that I had to shorten the mounting tabs on only one side of the shroud and drill new mounting holes. Use a flat washers and nylock nuts to secure it in place. Be sure not to over tighten the tabs because it will deform the shroud and cause clearance problems with the fan blades. Very little pressure is needed to permanently keep it from moving in place.
4. The construction of a triple pass radiator requires that the transmission cooler portion of the radiator be removed. This will actually work in your favor. Less heat is transferred to the engine coolant from the transmission. In my opinion, the factory cooler is inadequate at best. Buy the biggest B&M transmission cooler that you can get from Summit, Jeg's or the local off road shop and mount it in front of your radiator. The B&M design is the most durable and efficient version out there. You will be dissapointed if you skimp by buying the cheaper Russel style cooler. You will have to remove the factory cross braces in front of the radiator to do this. Your transmission will thank you. I have had nothing but possitive results from this modification.
5. Replace the radiator cap with a new lever style pressure release cap. I believe that it is rated at 17psi. It is cheap insurance. Especially if you cannot remember when it was last replaced!
6. Unless you are using DFI, FAST, Big Stuff or etc., in order for you to benefit from having the 160 thermostat, you will need to install a chip that will turn your fans on at 160 rather than the factory 190+ setting.
I know that it sounds like a lot of work, but; I have found that this is a "set it and forget it" set up. I know of people that have bought the super high $$$ aluminum units and they are still not getting the kind of cooling effeciency that I am with this system! :biggrin:
Good Luck!
DCVING 6 said:
I noticed that about mine as well. All I ended up needing to do was trim the edges of my Spal fans and they slipped right in. Then used some 14 gauge alum strip to make some mounting brackets.....good to go and the fans fit nice/snug.
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Mr. Dull
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2005
VadersV6 said:
Both! lol It also makes C16 :biggrin:
I don't think I'll be buying a 1800 Rad. That would just be stupid! Next oil change I'll remove the oil lines and screw the new filter on. I do have a trans cooler so I think the rad from Autozone will work.
I'll try it. :biggrin:
I have the 31" by 19" universal BeCool with 1" tubes. (Don't have the part# in front of me.) No coolers. I bought a PermaCool dual pass cooler and mounted it below the bumper. This thing is light. Really would put it at the 12 lb range. It also looks awesome and works even better. I also like the coolers separated so as to not heat the water up and if I get some metal pieces in the oil, I just throw away the cooler and buy another one instead of trying to flush it out the radiator cooler.
I don't drive in Arizona weather but when the Spal fans kick on at around 170* it takes less than 1 minute to go back down to 160* On the hwy (80's*) the temp is around 155*
I don't drive in Arizona weather but when the Spal fans kick on at around 170* it takes less than 1 minute to go back down to 160* On the hwy (80's*) the temp is around 155*
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Mr. Dull
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2005
Ok so I bought the Autozone Fbody and the fan from gbody performance.com and the car still runs at 200 on the FWY???? Is it that Monster RJC IC? What could this be? 1. A sticky 160 stat or 2. The rad cap?
Does anyone know what PSI on the FBody rad cap should be??
on the FWY???? Is it that Monster RJC IC? What could this be? 1. A sticky 160 stat or 2. The rad cap? Does anyone know what PSI on the FBody rad cap should be??
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Mr. Dull
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2005
PaCemkr86 said:
No not at all.
Underboost said:
I'm at this exact stage right now with my F-body radiator swap. I've already got an external transmission cooler on the car so I was just going to use the cooler in the new F-body radiator as an engine oil cooler but the fittings on the factory oil cooler lines are much larger than the cooler fittings on the new F-body radiator. I'm considering trying to find adapters, but it's obvious this will be a big restriction in the engine oil flow through the oil cooler - the oil cooler lines have a much larger internal diameter than the inlet and outlet openings for the internal radiator cooler. It's obviously not intended to be used as an engine oil cooler.
Has anyone run the F-body radiator and used the built-in cooler as an engine oil cooler? Results?
And for the record, the radiator *is* a perfect fit other than the cooler issue. Someone mentioned having to move one of the rubber isolators, but I didn't even have to do that. It fits like it came from the factory in there! When I bought it, I asked for a stock replacemnt for an '89 IROC Z-28.
The only other "issue" I think I should mention is the F-body radiator has an extra fitting/connection a few inches below the fill neck molded into the passenger side tank. I have no idea what that is for. My radiator had this already capped off with a rubber cap and hose clamp. It shouldn't be any problem, it doesn't interfere with anything. It's sort of like a radiator appendix - it's just there not doing anything but looking ugly.
And, if anyone is interested, I purchased my F-body radiator from a shop right accross the street from where I work. I paid $95 plus tax, brand new in the box. If anyone local (Dallas, Tx) is interested, I'll be happy to pick one up for you or tell you where you can get them for that price.
Rob
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Mr. Dull
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2005
at7we2 said:I'm at this exact stage right now with my F-body radiator swap. I've already got an external transmission cooler on the car so I was just going to use the cooler in the new F-body radiator as an engine oil cooler but the fittings on the factory oil cooler lines are much larger than the cooler fittings on the new F-body radiator. I'm considering trying to find adapters, but it's obvious this will be a big restriction in the engine oil flow through the oil cooler - the oil cooler lines have a much larger internal diameter than the inlet and outlet openings for the internal radiator cooler. It's obviously not intended to be used as an engine oil cooler.
Has anyone run the F-body radiator and used the built-in cooler as an engine oil cooler? Results?
And for the record, the radiator *is* a perfect fit other than the cooler issue. Someone mentioned having to move one of the rubber isolators, but I didn't even have to do that. It fits like it came from the factory in there! When I bought it, I asked for a stock replacemnt for an '89 IROC Z-28.
The only other "issue" I think I should mention is the F-body radiator has an extra fitting/connection a few inches below the fill neck molded into the passenger side tank. I have no idea what that is for. My radiator had this already capped off with a rubber cap and hose clamp. It shouldn't be any problem, it doesn't interfere with anything. It's sort of like a radiator appendix - it's just there not doing anything but looking ugly.
And, if anyone is interested, I purchased my F-body radiator from a shop right accross the street from where I work. I paid $95 plus tax, brand new in the box. If anyone local (Dallas, Tx) is interested, I'll be happy to pick one up for you or tell you where you can get them for that price.
Rob
Hey Rob I bypassed the oil cooler lines all you need is 11/8 socket. Here are some pic's
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84BuickGNYorkPA
Daily Driving Buick V-6 Turbo's 1979 - Present
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2005
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Underboost, did you get your temp. down ? I also have the RJC FM and on a hot day I have more temp then what I want.... I'm going to have my factory radiator rebuilt, at least that's which way I'm leaning...
Chuck
Underboost, did you get your temp. down ? I also have the RJC FM and on a hot day I have more temp then what I want.... I'm going to have my factory radiator rebuilt, at least that's which way I'm leaning...
Chuck
ScottyRegal
New Member
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2004
gyrhead and sons restoration has the best price ive seen on a factory GN radiator. 300 bucks. I rather just spend the extra 180 bucks and get the correct rad rather than worry about autozone POS F body rad that isnt perfect ... and then lines not line up perfectly like the GN rad will allow ....and be done with it! plus it wont have cheap plastic end caps thats for sure...and who cares about 20lbs of weight...our cars are still tanks reguardless! i mean if you wanna go that crazy with reducing weight, do it with parts that make a diff like aluminum bumper supports, and aluminum driveshaft.that would free up more weight than a dinky radiator.
