Turbotre, you seem to be on to something too. If thats the case, and that fuse does indeed power those lights, my problem has to be after the fuse, because it is getting power. I will check the wire all the way to the harness, and if that checks out I guess its time to pull the dash again.
Alternator not charging, volt light not on. Please help
- Thread starter 6whistler
- Start date
You guys are good. The Constant turn signal was a result of a bad taillight. Fixed.
The dash light issue is yet to be resolved. I pulled the dash again and found that the top left tab, and the 4th tab down on the right (I believe), both have power with key to run position. Used a test light to determine that. Also found that the turn signal tabs also work. (made the test light flash with turn signal). So, I do not know the circuitry of that copper plastic wire film on the back of the dash well enough to determine what the problem is from here. I know clean and pull the tabs out is the 1st step. But Im assuming more is going on here than a bad connection because its not just one bulb, its several that dont go on, and the bulbs are known good. I tested them on the check engine light that comes on before car is started.
The dash light issue is yet to be resolved. I pulled the dash again and found that the top left tab, and the 4th tab down on the right (I believe), both have power with key to run position. Used a test light to determine that. Also found that the turn signal tabs also work. (made the test light flash with turn signal). So, I do not know the circuitry of that copper plastic wire film on the back of the dash well enough to determine what the problem is from here. I know clean and pull the tabs out is the 1st step. But Im assuming more is going on here than a bad connection because its not just one bulb, its several that dont go on, and the bulbs are known good. I tested them on the check engine light that comes on before car is started.
This article explains the VOLTS lamp and its effect on the alternator charging circuit, along with a fix and some preventive measures:
http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/alternator_charging_tech.pdf
http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/alternator_charging_tech.pdf
Thank you John, and others.
This morning I got up went back outside to the garage and went over everything one more time. After reading a few other articles I became aware that there is a specific bulb that is supposed to go in the volt light terminal. (It provides different resistance, I guess). Mine was not in the correct place as a result of testing all the bulbs in the check engine light terminal last time I was out working in the car. (For future reference, the socket behind my dash that is supposed to be in the volt light position is black, and all the rest are gray. And if you look inside the bulb the volt bulb has blue on the inside.) So, after cleaning everything again, really making sure that the terminals on the harness were nice and flared, and putting everything back together I HAVE A VOLTAGE LIGHT!!!!!!!!!! Now that the problem has been diagnosed the field harness kit is the next thing to go on.
The only other thing I need to diagnose is why my dash turn signal lights do not go on. I have 1 small front lower marker light out. Once I get a bulb to replace it i hope it straightens out the inside issue. Turns out I had not 2, but 3 electrical problems at the same time. Thanks guys, Im glad the major issues have at least been taken care of.
This morning I got up went back outside to the garage and went over everything one more time. After reading a few other articles I became aware that there is a specific bulb that is supposed to go in the volt light terminal. (It provides different resistance, I guess). Mine was not in the correct place as a result of testing all the bulbs in the check engine light terminal last time I was out working in the car. (For future reference, the socket behind my dash that is supposed to be in the volt light position is black, and all the rest are gray. And if you look inside the bulb the volt bulb has blue on the inside.) So, after cleaning everything again, really making sure that the terminals on the harness were nice and flared, and putting everything back together I HAVE A VOLTAGE LIGHT!!!!!!!!!! Now that the problem has been diagnosed the field harness kit is the next thing to go on.
The only other thing I need to diagnose is why my dash turn signal lights do not go on. I have 1 small front lower marker light out. Once I get a bulb to replace it i hope it straightens out the inside issue. Turns out I had not 2, but 3 electrical problems at the same time. Thanks guys, Im glad the major issues have at least been taken care of.
This. I had a similar issue, it turned out that oxidation of the exposed copper traces on the back of the gauge cluster caused it.
I removed the cluster, all indicator lights, and burnished ALL exposed copper traces, including the panel connector, both sides.
I cleaned the contacts on all indicator bulb holders, and the bulbs themselves, all is good now.
for the VOLTS light: The blue bead is not correct, it should be the white bead inside the bulb - this passes the correct amount of current thru to the alternator field.The blue bead lamp draws less current, and is dimmer than the rest, as I recall.
The resistor bulb socket assembly should only go to the VOLTS position, if you have it. Some cars weren't equipped with it. Either way, what's most important is the VOLTS light is illuminated with key-on-engine-off.
John, this perplexes me. The only bulb I had behnd the dash that looked different from the rest was the blue bulb. The rest were all white.
The sockets i have were all gray, except for the black one.
I just assumed the blue bulb with the black socket was the correct combo because that was the combo that worked to finally get the battery light on in the dash.
Should I still look into getting a different bulb in? I have heard people say that the bulb is "different", but that doesnt help me if I go to the parts store and ask for a "different" dash bulb. Thanks!
The sockets i have were all gray, except for the black one.
I just assumed the blue bulb with the black socket was the correct combo because that was the combo that worked to finally get the battery light on in the dash.
Should I still look into getting a different bulb in? I have heard people say that the bulb is "different", but that doesnt help me if I go to the parts store and ask for a "different" dash bulb. Thanks!
Here's some Analog dash tech. Print it out and bring it in the can with you, you'll sit there for an hour..
http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/analog_dash_lighting.pdf
http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/analog_dash_lighting.pdf
John, thank you for the time both on the board and on the phone. Although I havent read your latest bulletin yet, the previous one you sent helped out tremendously. By using the resistor, I now feel confident driving the car and not having to worry about a charging system failure because of a bad contact connection. Are there any other quirks like this that I should learn at home rather than learning the hard way by breaking down somewhere? Thanks John, and everyone.
