Is there even a remote chance that I ended up with the wrong timing sprockets, like the wrong size? And If say the top sprocket were smaller, wouldn't that spin the cam too fast in relation the motor turning, and I'd end up having a valve hit a piston or something? Just trying to outrule the idea of having been given the wrong sprockets/gears.
Almost starts but won't
- Thread starter dnthmn87
- Start date
Hey I just reread those instructions, even tho I had them printed off and tried that method alot, but realized that I never followed step number 3... Is that implying that I need to remove the spark plug wires from coil pack, or that big wiring harness from the coil pack? I didn't do either of those. Could that have burnt a fuse or something???
GNONYX
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2009
When in doubt spent the $23.00, at least you will know the cam sensor is set up correctly, that's what I used when I replace my timing chain, and gears.
Assume you set both timing gears dots correctly, read the Casper's cam tool instruction sheet and it will tell you the step by step on how to set the cam sensor.
Assume you set both timing gears dots correctly, read the Casper's cam tool instruction sheet and it will tell you the step by step on how to set the cam sensor.
It may well be you have the cam sensor 180 degrees out if you didn't check to see if the engine was on the compression stroke at top dead center when you changed the timing chain gears.
Take the cap off the cam sensor and crank the engine over to verify top dead center on compression stroke and then look at the reluctor ring and see where the window is positioned. Easy check and you will know for sure.
The Casper cam tool does make setting the cam sensor very easy and well worth the price.
I'm pretty sure I got the method of using the voltmeter down for setting the cam sensor, its pretty simple. But this way is even better, no tool needed, it was how they set it on the assembly line, http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/help-setting-cam-sensor.323710/
Its a ways down in that thread, first page, pics and all. I've tried both ways, alot.
Even if it was 180 out, wouldn't it still start, but run really rough? And if my timing were way off, would the valves hit the pistons? Like if I really screwed up putting the sprockets on?
Its a ways down in that thread, first page, pics and all. I've tried both ways, alot.
Even if it was 180 out, wouldn't it still start, but run really rough? And if my timing were way off, would the valves hit the pistons? Like if I really screwed up putting the sprockets on?
But if the dots line up, isn't it at TDC compression stroke?
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2006
Do a compression check.
What was wrong with the timing chain that made you change it? My earlier suggestion was to see if everything was set correctly so the engine would run correctly, not to see if it would run 180 degrees out. I didn't think a 10 minute check would be all that bad to do. I mean it's been 4 days since you started this thread about this problem and you haven't gotten any closer to getting it running the way you are going about it.
Here are some more suggestions.
You can take the time to verify everything is set correctly,#1 cylinder at TDC on compression stroke,cam sensor installed and set correctly,timing mark on balancer/hub at 0 on timing indicator. Check your fuses and fuel pressure.
The only thing you won't be able to see of course is how the dots line up on the timing chain gears/sprockets.
You could remove the front cover and start all over again or take the car to a repair shop and have them do it for you.
Here are some more suggestions.
You can take the time to verify everything is set correctly,#1 cylinder at TDC on compression stroke,cam sensor installed and set correctly,timing mark on balancer/hub at 0 on timing indicator. Check your fuses and fuel pressure.
The only thing you won't be able to see of course is how the dots line up on the timing chain gears/sprockets.
You could remove the front cover and start all over again or take the car to a repair shop and have them do it for you.
The car had been making a ticking noise since I replaced the old nylon gears and chain in 2005, its gotten worse over the last 30,000 miles, so I pulled the front cover. The chain was super loose so I figured I should throw a double roller on it while I had it all apart.
Thanks for sticking with me this far.
The fuel pressure is good(37 I think), plugs are wet, can hear the fuel pump going, has lots spark.
I checked the flat blade fuses under the dash, are there any others under there or somewhere else I should check besides flat blade types???
Thanks again
Thanks, i've been meaning to do that, don't know why I keep forgetting.
m233roller
Banned
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2002
It is NOT going to start with gas fouled plugs!! Do your recheck to make sure all is set correctly and put in fresh plugs.
Dangit mike, I just did a compression test, was 159. So I just BARELY pulled the front cover off again to check my dots, they line up.... Shoulda checked this site this morning before tearin it down again. Plugs were probably all soaked from the several times I tried starting it before actually setting the cam sensor correctly. And it is due for new plugs.
Thanks for thinking of that, I hope thats it, can't find anything amiss now that the cover is off.
Thanks for thinking of that, I hope thats it, can't find anything amiss now that the cover is off.
IT WAS THE PLUGS!!! HALLELUJAH!!!! The limited is alive! Thanks mike, should gone back to the basics after all that was tried. I think it was almost starting because I had pulled the number one plug out a time or two to see if it was wet, and check spark etc, and wiped it clean and dry, so that cylinder was firing. They must've been soaked after the few times I tried starting it when I had forgot to plug the crank sensor in, but that was like a month ago. But at least now i'm pretty good at setting the cam sensor, and pulling the front cover in a timely manner. Thanks everyone!
