Adding Aquamist Nozzles to SMC?

Turbo__Tim

One heck of a Tim!
Joined
May 25, 2001
Two questions here. Would it be worth it? Has anbybody tried this yet?

I know that Steve offers a dual nozzle set-up. I don't know what size nozzles (in diameter) they are.

I am guessing that he does not use (Aquamist) in the original kit, as it would be too costly.

Does anybody know the size of the connector at the end of the 'fed line' There are two types, one is a 90* elbow, and the current one.

To convert one would have to be able to go from the end of the feed line, to an Aquamist 'Y' connector, then to the 2 Aquamist nozzles.
 
Steve Hill really knows about the Aquamist.

Do a search under Aquamist and you'll pull up a dealer in Kansas City, MO. George's Imports, Ltd. 1-816-333-6582. You'll want to talk to "Brad." He's very knowledgeable and a good guy, he'll tell you what you need.

I had a ShureFlow Pump and two Aquamist Jets that I had on another car. I got the SMC controller and two more Aquamist Jets (4 total). I used a Hobbs Switch to fire the Solenoid (Aquamist) that activates the second two (after the Y) at 18 lbs. You'll have to ask what size jets (Brad) recommends. He also has the plastic alcohol lines and drill bit.

Without the SMC Controller it would be a bear to tune. I run the pump at a very low pressure point, according to the SMC. The pump is so strong that if I turn it up to 1/2 it'll flood the engine. :)
I'm really pleased with the whole setup.

I'm going on vacation, so I won't be able to reply for ???
 
Tim,
anything you do to enhance atomization will improve performance. This is most noticable in situations where the engine is under max stress, such as wot in fourth at 25lbs, or if your system is getting knock hits. Uh, this is assuming we're talking 93 octane.
Four (4) 1.0 mm Aquamist nozzles is good for at least 25 lbs, in all gears, with most turbos and IC's, assuming a 50-50 mix.
 
Thanks Turbo, Steve, and Lee, who E-Mailed me.

Well I tried the smallest nozzle that Steve (SMC) had, and with one quarter of the pump speed, was still flooding out the cylinders. (This with a 50-50 mix)

I had used the Trans+ on my old cast heads, and had no problem whatsoever tuning the alchy in.

With the Alum. heads, I can't get anything to work so far. I've tried everything as far as timing, fuel, and turn-on point, and every combination of these. At best the engine boggs, and overheats. Overheating, I'm guessing from all the un-burnt fuel collecting, and burning in the headers. I have the scanmaster and all the numbers look good...

Anyway I've ordered, from Aquamist, (4) .4 aquamist nozzles, and the pulsator valve. (he pulsator valve is modulated off the injector pulse, and delivers a 'linear' amount of alchy. (I want to get the pump speed up, so I can more easily change the concentration to alchy to water, thus the small nozzle size)

The plan is to try 1 nozzle with a 50-50 alchy water mix, and see how far that works. Then add noozzles and/ or pump speed as things go along.

I may have to forget about using a 50-50 mix, and go back to 80-20 denatured-water, but I'd really like to get the 50-50 to work.

Anyway, we shall see in about at week, or so...

BTW SMC will have a 'pulsator' available in a month or so. I'll post the results I get using this one as soon as I can.

I've asked before, and I'll ask again- Is anyone else using alum. heads having this kind of problem? Sheesh, without the alchy the enging pulls great! A little toulene, and I'm good to 22 psi without alchy...
 
Tim,
cool! always wanted to try the pulsator, never got around to it. I will be waiting to hear how it works out. cya
 
Lee asked what a pulsator vavle is....

The pulsator is a one-way valve that sits between the pump and nozzle. The alchy, under pressure from the pump, enters this valve, and cannot leave it until the valve opens, allowing the alchy to go to the nozzle. Using an injector pulse as a reference, the pulsator modulates the alchy stream, opening and closing with each injector pulse. When the injector pulses, it (the pulsator) opens, then closes. The faster the injector pulse, the faster the valve opens and closes, and the more alchy that is delivered. More alchy, at higher rpm's...

This way, the cylinders should intake the same proportion of alchy each cycle, instead of gulping large amounts of alchy at low rpm's, and smaller amounts at high rpm's.

Here's my little theory....

The way things are now, the alchy is delivered at a constant rate. At low rpm's we are flooding the cylinders, right after each shift there is too much alchy in the cylinders at the bottom of second, and the bottom of third, where the rpm's are lower than at the top of each preceeding gear. Sure at the top of third the temperatures are finally under control, but how much power is lost attaining this! ?

Secondly, if you are flooding the cylinders, the un-burnt fuel is collecting in the headers, and when you are in the middle of third gear, and finially running right, the un-burnt fuel is igniting, adding a temperature spike-up at the end of the run.

At this piont you are running rich, but the 0-2 sensor doesn't see it because the expanding alchy and gas vapors have displaced the gas fuel volume, with it's own, and the 0-2 doesn't read alchy, or water vapor(steam) as fuel...

That's just my opinion, I could be wrong. I often am...:)

If I can't run a 50-50 mix with this set-up, then I will go to a 2 stage, only I'd like the second stage to activate, and turn off at certain RPM's. Like, say, turn on at 4,200 rpm, and shut off at 4600 rpm. Just enough there to nip off the tip of the temperature spikes. Might even try that with a manually operated button first, just to try it out.

Now that would be cool! :)
 
Turbo Tim,
Thanks for the explanation of the pulsator. When you first started to describe it, I was like "oh no, another gimmick," but as I read on, it sounds very trick. Now I have something to look forward to. I run my dual nozzle setup at 9.5 and tune around it, and I notice that it definately does better in the upper rpms.
 
I don't know for sure if that is an Aquamist product. Call the number in the second post if you need to know more. :)

They cost $150...
 
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