Add this to the parts to keep on hand. PCV Valve

VtheGNMan

VtheGNMan

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 19, 2014
I thought I would share a recommendation another member made to me. It was recommended that I keep an extra PCV valve on hand. This is the small little one way check valve that prohibits boost pressure from going to into the crankcase. At the time I didn't think too much of it since I knew it had been replaced at some previous time and I have open breathers on both valve covers, but I went ahead and included an extra one with an order I was placing. It was like $7 or $8. All of a sudden under mild boost I had a cloud of smoke like no other. Of course I feared the worst but I happened to notice upon clean up and inspection the oil dipstick tube was dislodged from the tube holder. I checked everything over really well and it only appeared that oil was forced out of the dipstick tube onto the manifold. I changed the PCV valve and it did the trick.
Thanks for the recommendation and I thought I would pass this along. Better to have an extra one on hand than face downtime waiting on shipping.
I know some have eliminated that valve altogether and/or have a catch can. That's another option. But if you have this valve still in your car, good to keep one on hand!
 
VtheGNMan said:
I thought I would share a recommendation another member made to me. It was recommended that I keep an extra PCV valve on hand. This is the small little one way check valve that prohibits boost pressure from going to into the crankcase. At the time I didn't think too much of it since I knew it had been replaced at some previous time and I have open breathers on both valve covers, but I went ahead and included an extra one with an order I was placing. It was like $7 or $8. All of a sudden under mild boost I had a cloud of smoke like no other. Of course I feared the worst but I happened to notice upon clean up and inspection the oil dipstick tube was dislodged from the tube holder. I checked everything over really well and it only appeared that oil was forced out of the dipstick tube onto the manifold. I changed the PCV valve and it did the trick.
Thanks for the recommendation and I thought I would pass this along. Better to have an extra one on hand than face downtime waiting on shipping.
I know some have eliminated that valve altogether and/or have a catch can. That's another option. But if you have this valve still in your car, good to keep one on hand!
Click to expand...

You'll have the same problem eventually with the new pcv valve. The best way to solve it for good is to use a one way check valve with low cracking pressure in line between the factory pcv and the throttle body. The pcv will still meter vacuum and the check valve will keep boost from entering the crankcase. Welcome to discovering your turbo Buick!
 
You'll really need the check valve when you add the Razor kit in your sig. More boost is not taken well by the factory pcv.
 
Thanks for the additional suggestion. So this check valve is in addition to the PCV Valve? I am assuming so just want to clarify. Do you have one in particular you could suggest? Source? Part #? I'd rather it not happen again...period. Whether I have added Razors or not.
Thanks we4!
 
Kirban and RJC both sell a version to use as a PCV replacement. I have found success using one of these devices in addition to the factory pcv between the pcv and TB. Do some searching and there are many writeups about it.
 
Sounds good, I'll read more about it. I thought I read some were having troubles with using those but maybe that was only as a direct replacement and not adding them as a 2nd in the line. The one I bought was Kirbans aftermarket one. Gives me something to research. Thanks for your help we4!
 
A bunch of members are using the small 3/8" PVDF Check Valve from US plastics. It's 3/8" hose barb x 3/8" hose barb & fits in line very easily & has very low cracking pressure. They are very inexpensive.
 
1KWIKSIX said:
A bunch of members are using the small 3/8" PVDF Check Valve from US plastics. It's 3/8" hose barb x 3/8" hose barb & fits in line very easily & has very low cracking pressure. They are very inexpensive.
Click to expand...

Just bought some. Item# 64175 3/8" standard check valve Viton/kynar. I painted mine flat black so it would blend. Suck on one end if you could pull air then that side faces the TB (it has a small arrow on it). If you have an oil/PCV catch can place it between the can and TB.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=64175
 
DSC06094.JPG
DSC06095.JPG
 
Eliminate the PCV all together. Add some large diameter breather tubes to your valve covers and open element breathers. I welded in 1.750" tubes and use K&N breathers...havent noticed any fumes or vapors yet...
20140401_190210.jpg
20140523_183416.jpeg
 
Its in the second pic about 2" from the filter. I have no idea how the pcv system works there. Unless I'm not seeing everything, looks like one valve cover is connected to the other and that's it.
 
I bought a couple of the brass check valves that ATR use to sell years ago.

I use one inline with the pcv valve. The other one i use on the power brake booster to replace the plastic check valve for vacuum brakes.
 
TurboBuRick said:
The plastic check valves will fail fast. :(
Click to expand...
I wondered about that since the plastic pcv valve failed after a couple years. But at least the check valve is not in the intake so maybe the heat won't be as bad. How long do they last?
 
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