accumulator housing

stovebolt 34

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Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Any possibility the 1-2 accumulator housing with the sleeve and checkball is not compatible with the X plate ?

Thanks . . . . Gordon
 
It all started with my recent post on the Billet Servo that i had installed and was not too happy with . If you can find that post you can see what else I had done to the transmission . I was advised to get the X plate , which i did . I also got CK's heavy servo return spring . I drilled the feed holes in the X plate as advised . I had already blocked the line bias valve and put that spring in the accumulator valve . Just for the heck of it I took the sleeve and checkball out of the accumulator housing and blocked it . test drove it . light throttle shift into second felt like a slight bind up . shift into 3rd & 4th seemed ok . Didn't want to hurt it so I only went a little ways .

Transmission's on the bench again . . . Unblocked the line bias valve , used a heavier spring in it , unblocked the 1-2 accumulator housing put the sleeve and checkball back in it . The X plate and the old CH plate are the same hole for hole except the MTV hole and the lo/reverse feed hole . Like you , I don't see after comparing the two plates what differenc it would make . I thought I might have a checkball out of place when I put the Xplate in but they are right . I may put my 692 servo back in still using CK's heavy spring . Comments and help appreciated .
 
I was advised to put a 3-4 clutch return spring into the line bias and do what you did with the line bias into the accumulator. How big did you drill the feed holes?
Does it feel like 2 is holding on too long? What are you setting the servo clearance at? What band are you using? 1-2 shift good?

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2 nd band apply .094 . 3 rd clutch apply .094 . 4 the clutch apply .078 . I used the red line bias spring that came with the much hated b&m shift kit . Don't know what caused the bind up . I used the stock width band . I did the band clearance by feel . Going back with the 692 servo . Hope it works this time .
 
No , the bind up if that's what it was is on the 1-2 shift . Directs are not dual fed . Just thinking , if I missed the band lug with the servo pin would it shift from 1-3 skipping 2nd ? I thought after I reassembled the billet servo with the CK return spring I had it covered but could be wrong . Haven't made my mind up on whether to give the billet servo another chance . It uses teflon seals instead of lip seals which is a negative , or at least I think it is . After I removed the valve body this time (transmission still on bench) I did a quick air check ( 20 lbs air pressure ) before I removed the billet servo with the heavy servo spring and it blew fluid out the exhaust hole in the case which makes me think it does not seal good . Thoughts ??

Thanks , Gordon
 
I've heard you can wrap a couple turns of Teflon tape on those Teflon seals to help them seal better though I haven't tried it. When you air check the servo does it apply and release well? Are you using a carbon band or something else. I was told to set mine up pretty tight. I believe I got it to .060 clearance without the springs n seals on it.

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I did the teflon tape under the scarf cut sealing ring on the outer part of the piston . The inner seal is not scarf cut ( solid ) . I didn't mess with it . Afraid I might destroy it by trying to remove it . Haven't reinstalled it to see what it does yet . I think my band clearance is pretty close to what you have . My band is not the black carbon band . It is the stock type that came with the overhaul kit from CT Powertrain Products .

Don't understand why 4L60-E's use scarf cut teflon seals in the servo and they work well . I put a Corvette servo in my Xtreme truck and it made a huge improvement in the 1-2 shift .
 
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