AC Compressor

[GNBeswick]

So a couple weeks ago I charged my AC system (134a) and it worked fine for a little while. Discovered it was leaking, both refrigerant and oil. Everytime the car sat parked, there would be a little under tennis ball pool of AC oil. So I recharged it today until I can get a new compressor. The problem now is, the compressor seems to just come on sometimes. Ive got the electronic touch climate control and when I hit the "auto" button, the idle rises and the fans start blowing but the compressor will not engage. If I drive around for a while, it might come on, it just seems random. Once it's on, it will stay on as long as I have the system set on "auto". If I turn it off and try to turn it back on though, the compressor will not engage again until it feels like it.....which could be 30 seconds to 15 minutes or not at all.
I have no idea what would cause this problem, the compressor used to engage everytime I would turn the AC on. Is this a relay problem? Bad compressor?
Problem seems like it came out of nowhere.

 

[TURBOTWIN2]

What are your A/C gauge pressure readings?
I'm sorry, but I can't help you without knowng this.
If it's low on freon, the compressor won't kick on due to to the low pressure switch not being enabled. If it has a leak, it's probably low on freon and won't engage the compressor clutch.
Fix your leak first before you go chasing after relay/electrical problems.
You do know how to bypass (put a paper clip in the 2 connections) the low pressure switch on thye Accumulator to make the compressor engage, don't you?
How did you "charge your A/C system"? Did you use a set of A/C gauges with both high & low gauges or just a canister of can of freon with a built in connector (throw away) setup?

 

[hesermon]

If you have a leak your system will never work properly until u fix the leak. Charging it does not remove the air from the sealed system. I find it odd that you would have a puddle of oil on the ground. I takes a pretty significant leak to lose oil. Anyway, you have a couple of options at this point. To do it right put in a can of leak detector and enough R134a to make the compressor run. Your leak will appear. At this point you can replace the defective part or o-ring. This means breaking the system open. At the very least you should replace the dryer and orfice tube then vacuum the system down using a rental pump from auto zone, then recharge the system using guages to the correct pressures. (good time to use the red orfice tube while you have it apart). Option #2... "Super Seal" about $20 at auto zone. This is not the perfered option because until a vacuum is pulled to remove all the air it will not ever cyle properly. But unless you have a pretty big leak the super seal will stop the leak and allow you to charge and maintain enough pressure to get by.

 

[toecutter_tx]

Mine does the same thing.
Its the clutch. Try taping the front of the
compressor with a stick and it will engage.
I'm not sure if the clutch can be fixed without changing thecompressor.

 

[turbofrank]

I Don't know much about ac however all the cars i've ever had with climate
control if set to auto the compressor will cycle on/off all the time.

 

[GNBeswick]

To be honest I do not recall the readings. My father is an AC tech and re-charged the system for me. He checked the levels with his gauges and it was low on 134a.
I just found it odd that the compressor wouldnt turn on after this latest recharge. I've had the compressor on my old engine leak out and re-charged it a few times and it always turned on. The one Ive currently got used to always come on after a re-charge as well, even with the leak.
From some of the replies, sounds like its just a good idea to replace the compressor. I never expected to fix the leak without having to replace it. Just didnt want to do so if the problem was with the relay or something.

 

[83ttypecooled]

Hi,
All AC systems have some sort of pressure switch which controls clutch activity. The turbo Buicks have 3. A high pressure switch, meant to protect the system from over pressure and is at the back of the compressor,a fan control switch, on the high pressure line, and lastly,a low pressure switch,on the accumulator at the right of the engine compartment. The low pressure, or cycling switch will cut out at 25 psi or so. The high pressure switch will cut out at 400psi+. The fan control switches control just that; fans at varying pressures.
Basically,if your compressor clutch will not engage,it is probably a situation where the refrigerant level has gone below the engagement point of the cycling switch. It is likely you have a major leak. Since you have already said you do,time to fix it!