AC 134 conversion cost

The reason for asking is that a year ago the R134A leaked out of my system.The garage that charged it back up told me that it took 52 oz to fill,at a cost of $248.That seemed expensive.Anyway,they did a leak test,found no leaks,and filled it.The worst part was that 3 weeks later it was empty again! I later discovered it was leaking badly through the compressor shaft.Over the winter I purchased a new compressor,reciever dryer,and orifice tube filter.They are installed.Just wondering how much should it cost to vacuum,and refill the system:ballpark?
 
:mad: :eek: I wouldn't consider 134 in a GN. Not original & NOT AS COLD as r12. My local a/c mechanic would ONLY use r12 in a GN.

:biggrin: Nick Micale is correct in his analysis of the efficiency of r12 or "freeze 12".
 
:mad: :eek: I wouldn't consider 134 in a GN. Not original & NOT AS COLD as r12. My local a/c mechanic would ONLY use r12 in a GN.

:biggrin: Nick Micale is correct in his analysis of the efficiency of r12 or "freeze 12".

Would it be possible to upgrade the condenser? Isn't that why R 134a doesn't work as well in an R-12 system? Because doesn't an R 134a system typically need a bigger condenser?
 
R134 doesn't shed heat as well as R12. It also requires higher presures to be effective. That's why most R134 systems don't work as well at idle.
 
Well it looks like its going to be 650 for a new accumulator, compressor, o-ring kit, evacuate and recharge with 134 & all the labor done by them :cool: . It just cost too much for R12 to replace everything and keep it. They also got my vents working again, last time I drove it, air was only blowing from below.
 
Two questions, as I want to try and see why the "converted but not working before I bought it" a/c system in my Regal doesn't work....

1. How can I verify if the compressor is shot?

2. Where can I rent a vacuum pump?

Thanks.
 
Nos R12

I still have an extra nos (1990's) 50 # drum that I would sell for $900 still in mfg's box. I bought a few drums when they started talking about phasing it out.It works much better than 134 in old systems.PM me if your interested.
 
I wouldn't talk about that to much. It's illegal to sell R-12 without a handlers licsence. Last guy I know that got cought was fined 10k per cyl. Check the local tool rental place to see if they do rentals. There's one in Fort Worth that used to rent suction pumps. I know harbor freight sells an air powered suction unit for fairly cheap.
 
Good discussion...

I just shook the dust off my GN after it spent the last 9 months in storage... System was low on R12 3 years ago.... but not significantly.... and if I'm lucky I put 5K miles on the car in that time...

So now, the compressor leaks (front seal), one of the hose connections is loose and the compressor cycles frequently... indicating very low...

I have a friend who runs a performance oriented machine/general repair shop with a tech who is as OCD as I am... so I asked to price parts... Compressor, Condensor, Evaporator, Accumulator, Hose. The AC Delco condensor is almost as much as the compressor is.... (cost) but as others indicated, it's best to do a complete Overhaul and go all new.
 
To replace the compressor,accumulator,orifice tube and flush/recharging system
is about 3.5 hrs (294.00 at my work). As far as parts goes look them up.
Also for a vacuum pump get the cheapest a/c gauges set you can find. cut
the end off the yellow hose and hook it to a vacuum source on the engine.
hope this helps
 
Since I need to replace the heater core too, I'll be replacing the evap as well... so Compressor/Condensor/Evap/Accumulator totalled about $680

I was unable to locate a new hose assy locally, so I have a known good used unit we will use instead.

A good friends shop will be doing the work... 3.5 hours sounds light for that job.
 
I've had two cars done, neither had the condenser replaced and no problems, just be sure they flush the system.
 
I've had two cars done, neither had the condenser replaced and no problems, just be sure they flush the system.

Trick here is there is no effective way to flush the condensor based on how the tubes are configured.

IMHO its better to not take the chance and start new... the condensor shows signs of corrosion (Hawaii salt air) so I wont gamble...
 
My ac stopped working a couple years back, and I didn't fix it. Then when turning on the defrost, the engine would bog, and make a horrible noise, and I didn't fix it. Next, the compressor completely went to crap and started making a horrible grinding noise. Can't put it off any longer now. After removing the belt, I noticed the pulley will only spin a few inches. So I started yanking all the stuff to remove the compressor up until I needed to bring more tools home. So I start looking, o fudge, I gotta convert, and get dis and dat to convert.

The more I read, the more confusing it got, until I looked at the iroc zone site, which pretty much spells out whats needed in parts and tools, and where to get it. Anyone forced to convert should take a look. As referred by the dude with the pic of the girl with the nice booty:

http://www.iroczone.com/2009/10/ac-system-repairretrofit/
 
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