A new Head stud question....

[gnpoweredrail]

so check out my bad luck...
One of My heads actually had a crack inbetween the valve springs so I took a set of 30,000 mile virgin ones to redo and put my big valves in...get them back and installed,torqued and retorqued and found out my rockers wont fit as the pedastals have to be machined like my old heads!!! damn this sucks..another set of gaskets down the drain.
what is weird is i could only get 58-64 ft lbs when I loosened the nuts????? maybe because the moly wasnt burned off yet???
Anyone ever pulled heads without running them and see a lesser torque then what you torqued them to???

Am I just being paranoid? also I unscewed the studs so I could reseal them again.
Do I wait for the silicone to dry before I install and torque the heads or do it imediately.​

 

[Slow91z]

New studs need to be torqued several times as they will stretch when new.

 

[gnpoweredrail]

these were not new

 

[gnpoweredrail]

I was actually worried they were stretching more and more cause they are too old....Im not sure on the age as I purchased the engine from a fellow member that was built by HYE Tech with ARP bolts on the receipt..not sure when the studs went in.

when I pulled the heads for the oil leak it took 80-90 ft lbs to break the nuts loose.....

 

[Slow91z]

Typically old studs/bolts loose their stretch which reduces their clamp...sounds like you need to let the everything sit and retorque before installing the engine.

 

[gnpoweredrail]

I heated the heads and block up once they were installed with a propane heater...150-180 degrees and then retorqued when it was cooled down...I only got a tiny bit of movement out of a couple nuts..not all of them

 

[Slow91z]

I was taught too one at a time back them off a tad (not enough to get them actually loose) and torque and then move on to the next one in the sequence...when you just put the torque wrench on and click them again you have to remember there are things working against you, it takes torque just to break it loose, that's why you back it off slightly where that's not a factor and do another smooth even pull.

 

[gnpoweredrail]

anyone else???

 

[gnpoweredrail]

using silicone on the studs.....Do I wait for the silicone to dry before I install and torque the heads or do it imediately.

 

[Slow91z]

If you have the studs run all the way in as you should I don't think it matters.

 

[turbo nasty]

With RTV and backing off the studs the studs will alot of the time break loose (about a 1/8 - 1/4 turn) and the rtv is no longer good and removingthe suds and cleaning, etc is a PITA.
For this reason among others is why I prefer permatex #2 as its like a tar and stays pliable and is designed for threaded connections. and is much more resilient to oils and coolant than rtv.
With this type of sealer if the studs back off during a release and retorque which I do as well they can be screwed back down without the sealant being compromised.