87 regal Acceleration/Idle Issues

U

UmadBro

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
So I have an 87 buick regal limited with a 2 barrel carb? err throttle body whatever... With the 3.8 liter v6.

When I am sitting in park it idles very inconsistently, and also sometimes when I am accelerating, it bogs down before it actually picks up speed. Also my check engine light comes on once in awhile. It just flashes and disappears though.

I was wondering what part controls the idle...err rather what parts should I test?
and on a side note, I have a rebuilt carb, redone fuel lines, and replaced the fuel filter near the engine and the fuel pump so those shouldn't be the issue.

*My other question was how I can adjust the idle, because it seems to idle a bit low.

Thanks.
 
If everything is working right then the idle is being controled by a motor on the left front of the carb. If you turn the key one and don't start the engine do you hear a ticking sound fron under the hood?
 
I had it on a scanner and it said the car wasn't responding. I did the paper clip trick and the codes it ran said nothing was wrong. The service engine light only comes on for a few seconds and then disapears.
 
You will need to do a driving test since it's intermittent. Those are the biggest pain to figure out. Is it running rich still or does it seem to be ok?
 
UmadBro said:
I had it on a scanner and it said the car wasn't responding. I did the paper clip trick and the codes it ran said nothing was wrong. The service engine light only comes on for a few seconds and then disapears.
Click to expand...

It sounds like it is running off the ECM. Too bad the scanner wouldn't work. If it did, I would suggest watching the O2 sensor output to see how fast/slow it bounces rich-lean. If it gets 'lazy' it causes issues like you described, but won't set off the check engine light. Maybe find another scan tool, or gamble with a new O2 sensor.
 
Choke is stuck closed, check and see if the choke wire has 12 volts when the key is on. Find something to hold choke open then drive the car and or replace every spark plug
 
Ah, Okay. I will maybe have to try the driving test sometime then.
From what I can see the choke is opening,but my spark plugs are probably bad though.

I don't know if this makes a difference, but it was like 30 degrees today. When I was warming up the car it would die if I didn't keep my foot on the gas a little bit, it was only doing that when warming up though.
 
Does it still have the aluminum tube going from the air cleaner snorkel to the exhaust manifold? Those are usually missing. Without it, the idle and off idle acceleration will be poor until the engine warms up. Carb cars need the incoming air to be above ~75°F.

It's probably not worth replacing. I just live with it (I rarely drive my cars when it is that cold out).
 
I have it there, but its not hooked up the best. Should I try and make it seal on there air tight or something?
 
It doesn't have to be air tight but check to see if the flap is closing when the engine is cold and that the tube is staying in place.
 
Okay, so it's not closing. What does that mean?

Also, does anyone know how to adjust the idle?
 
Are you trying to adjust the mixture or the idle speed? Idle speed is adjusted by the computer and isn't supposed to be adjusted.

If the baffle isn't closing then the engine isn't getting the heat off the exhaust. Is the vacuum diagram still on the radiator shroud?
 
THERMOSTATIC AIR CLEANER (THERMAC) - The air cleaner is design to provide an incoming air temperature of about 115 degrees (F). A temperature sensor is in the air cleaner and is used to control a vacuum actuated damper door in the snorkel of the air box. This door on the snorkel blends incoming air with air heated by the right side exhaust manifold, via a very narrow duct. This improves winter weather driveability. Warmer climate and summer only driven vehicles can do without thus system. During WOT acceleration, the (carburetor) vacuum drops to zero and the door will slowly open to allow unblended air through the snorkel alone. There is an inline delay valve which could be remove for quicker opening of the damper door.



If it's not closing at all, maybe one of the vacuum lines is missing or disconnected. This is likely not your main problem. A lazy oxygen sensor and dirty intake valves are more likley your problem. Try Techron fuel injector cleaner to cleane the valves.
 
I will check and see if it's there tomorrow. Yeah I mean like raise the rpms at idle. That is nuts that I can't do that... so used to my carburetor
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
78 & 80 Regal part out
Replies
8
Views
991
sowle
S
B
Miss at idle, miss at cruising speed.
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
TurboBuRick
T
T
PowerLogger 2.0 questions...
Replies
6
Views
416
turbokinetic
T
S
No start
2
Replies
28
Views
2K
spaulding
S
I
Racetronix 255 pump tuning issues
Replies
8
Views
1K
SCOOBY DOO
SCOOBY DOO
Top