4.1 build...

[IhaveAcarSickness]

not sure if this is were this thread goes but,i finally went and picked up the 4.1,i i had a good year with the snow by me and well im gonna start the build this spring,the engine is out of a 81 seville complete,30k original miles ,not really up on par with the stage1 and 2 stuff ,im just a hot air boy,so i will ask,i drive the whistler every chance i get,so what can i do with this block for reliability everyday driver and beating on it at the strip. stage1 ,stage 2 ?do i put the intercooled stuff on top,thanks george...

 

[Nick Micale]

not sure if this is were this thread goes but,i finally went and picked up the 4.1,...................

I am not sure what you are asking here?

If the question is regarding info about a production 4.1 engine build, you can easily find a couple recent threads detailing this info by using the forum Search Function.

 

[SHADOWII]

If you are looking for a builder, Nick, above is probably one of the most experienced in building the 4.1's. If just knowledge to build it yourself, the search would be of great benefit. As a minmum,in any build, I would recommend the 2 center caps be replaced and definitely go w/the intercooled version if it is affordable for you. Can't beat the extra cubes.

 

[liquidh8]

Good luck, one of these days I'll score a 4.1. There are a few good thread on here I have read on 4.1 builds.

 

[Undercover87T]

What is the block #? If it's out of an 81, I've heard the earlier blocks (484?) have to have the oil pasages opened up.

 

[IhaveAcarSickness]

i talked to nick the outher day and he gave me a run down on what i need to do..as far as the block havnt done anything to it yet or look at any numbers just glad to have it home

 

[Pronto]

With the varying results guys have had with them, I would stick to an experienced guy like Nick if you build the 4.1.

 

[turbobob924]

4.1 rules the torque game

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[Undercover87T]

4.1 rules the torque game

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I agree. For the street especially it's a ton of fun and more useable. Even off boost you can feel the difference between the two.

 

[IhaveAcarSickness]

Well the 4.1 is at shop.lined honed sonic checked and all the rest .ordered the billit mains .deep sum oil pan .the cam.arp main studs.tr big mouth cold air kit .gbodys 3 inc dp with test pipe and the rjc ss 3inc to crossflow duals.waiting on my deck height so I can order the pistons from ta.

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[IhaveAcarSickness]

What is the block #? If it's out of an 81, I've heard the earlier blocks (484?) have to have the oil pasages opened up.

1984 block castings a 484

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[TexasT]

Well the 4.1 is at shop.lined honed

I see you are getting new mains and already did the line hone. With the new caps another line hone/bore will be needed to get the new caps straight with the block or bad things could(will) happen.

Be sure to open up the oil galley in the block( as noted above) and do some earl brown mods to the front cover to keep the oil FREE and unimpeded.

 

[IhaveAcarSickness]

Oil mods are done to the cover same way I did on my 3.8.and I'm waiting on caps before it gets line honed

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[IhaveAcarSickness]

And on the galley I just need to clean up the ruff edges in the middle .right?I think its the same thing I did to the 3.8 .then I clearcoated the galley.nice and slick.

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[earlbrown]

What did you clearcoat the galley with?

 

[IhaveAcarSickness]

Old hot rodder trick .standered clear coat.

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[earlbrown]

I was thinking Glyptal was the old hot rodder trick. It can stand up to the harsh conditions and fumes of a crankcase environment. (but not brake parts cleaner)


I'm curious how long it's going to stay in place. There's no way in the cornbread hell I would put EPA de-nutted/non-VOC/ blah blah, modern paint in my crankcase. I just can't see that stuff living the presence of gas fumes without delaminating.

 

[ek02]

What oil galley needs to be opened up? I have 2 484 blocks and 2 291's and did not see any difference in the oil passages. I have seen early 3.8's with the small pickup tube, with passages to match, that need to be enlarged.

 

[IhaveAcarSickness]

I was thinking Glyptal was the old hot rodder trick. It can stand up to the harsh conditions and fumes of a crankcase environment. (but not brake parts cleaner)


I'm curious how long it's going to stay in place. There's no way in the cornbread hell I would put EPA de-nutted/non-VOC/ blah blah, modern paint in my crankcase. I just can't see that stuff living the presence of gas fumes without delaminating.

Ahhh it will be fine I do it to almost every engine I build never had a problem always looks just like when I painted it when I pull off the intake.

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