3rd Gear WOT flare

Darklord

New Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2001
At wot I see a good deal of flare when shifting into 3rd when the tranny is cold. When warm this doesn't seem to be as much of a problem and regular cruising the tranny shifts fine in all gears. I've checked the TV cable and fluid level and all seem to be okay. Time for a rebuild I guess. Anthing else I can check while I'm saving money to do this or should I just forget about any track visits for awhile?
 
Originally posted by Darklord
At wot I see a good deal of flare when shifting into 3rd when the tranny is cold. When warm this doesn't seem to be as much of a problem and regular cruising the tranny shifts fine in all gears. I've checked the TV cable and fluid level and all seem to be okay. Time for a rebuild I guess. Anthing else I can check while I'm saving money to do this or should I just forget about any track visits for awhile?

If this was not a problem when the transmission was fresh, then any fix made or attempted now is likely to be a band aid, and is also likely to cause a different problem after the correct repair (probably a rebuild) is made.

There are cures for the 2-3 flair. However, they should only be used if the transmission is in good working order and all the frictions and clearances are correct.

Take it to the track at your own risk. Racing the car could hasten the coming of the end for the transmission.
 
hey 6 pack. the only thing i have found that clears up the flare when all is ok is dual feeding the direct clutch in hi gear,opening up the 3rd accumulator hole in the plate ,and orificing the direct clutch feed passage in the case .after carefully studying and refining this i have found a happy medium that neverfails .i spoke about this with lonnie and he told me that although he doesnt agree with many of my principles this is something that works for him.since using this info he has also eliminated the flare and hes building these things for big horsepower.you gotta have a good forward drum though..............or else.
 
Yeah, Lonnie and I talked about that a couple of years ago. It also helps the direct clutches. It is a good fix.

You can also use an orifice to adjust the release bleed for the band. One problem with that fix is that it sometimes causes a bind up on the 3-2 downshift, creating a hard thump.

Yeah, reworking direct will pop a stock forward input drum on the 2-3 in a heartbeat.

Like anything else, it's a delicate balance.
 
The problem only arises when you are using the orifice to change the bleed rate to release the band. I wasn't clear enough. I should have said that to begin with. Playing with direct won't create the bind.
 
Originally posted by 6PacktoGo
Yeah, reworking direct will pop a stock forward input drum on the 2-3 in a heartbeat.

Yep, that was one of those things I learned the hard way years ago...a few times. :p
 
Actually, the original owner had this tranny rebuilt at about 90k miles. I have no idea who did the work but they didn't put the correct D5 converter back in. The car would barely haze the tires in first gear when I bought it until I put in the red stripe . I bought the car back in 96 with 130k miles. It now has 184k miles with plenty of track visits and more than a few street passes but as mentioned the tranny still shifts fine otherwise. It's been slipping the past couple of years but I haven't been racing it as much recently so I haven't worried about addressing the problem until now.
 
Top