3" GN1 performance downpipe - can it be bent??

griz_83ho

Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2008
So picked up a 3" GN1 performance downpipe with external gate an when I go to mount it using the test pipe to my hooker exhaust the angle of the downpipe is off. The very end of the downpipe where it turns to go towards the back of the car has a slight down angle in it and a angle to the outside of the car. Long story short it will not fit to my hooker exhaust that utilizes the factory hanger bracket without doing something. Question is can it be bent 3/4" up and in to allow it to meet the exhaust? Not sure if it's even possible since it's 304 stainless, couple places have already told me there is nothing I can do but wanted to ask.
Thanks kris
 
P
 

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Who put the big dent in it? It would take a lot of heat to heat that pipe enough to bend. Why not take it somewhere with a lift and have it cut and welded back on right? I had an RJC that I just sold that I did that too.
 
Griz i have same dp & 46mm ext gate & mine fit great but im also running really great condition stock headers! exhaust shop can fix the angle & tie it in..
 
Can you get any adjustment by loosening it on the turbo and turning it clockwise?
 
Problem there is the header won't let it turn. I have that locked down but sad part is I'm a hair off where I need to be. Took the downpipe to 3 shops and they didn't think they could do anything to it. I'm thinking only option is to cut it and grind the desired angle they reweld it. Hate to do that but everyone says due to it being stainless and such a short end piece they don't want to screw it up when bending
 
If it has an hanger at the test pipe take it off and try. I dont have a hanger there and u can move the exhaust around. Win all together it won't move. I have the same exhaust. If down pipe little long sometimes u can cut it because it will slide in test pipe 2 or 3in . Mite can try one of those.

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When I put mine on, I had to oval out the turbo mounting flange so I could turn the turbo a few degrees to get it to line up. Mine was running too close to the frame, so I needed to rotate it a little. It wasn't easy, but it sure fits nice now after the work.
 
My problem is that my exhaust hausing will not rotate due to being bolted down to the header. I did drop it off the hanger and can get it together but it hangs down a good 3in. I know I'm being picky here but just so close to getting this thing done I want it all to come together as sound as possible.
 
Win u put the dp in it will pull it will be in the same spot as sup. to unless its kicking it down for some reason. Just thought worth a shot.

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You may have to loosen the turbo to header flange, and the dp to turbo flange and get it where you want it. Then bolt it back down. I know you already have them secured, but this is the proper way to do it.
 
The only way you are going to get it to fit is to do as czimpel stated...the DP flange has to have the hole elongated to allow the pipe to be clocked. The thickness of that pipe will make this a pain in the ass and will take some time to do. A machine shop could make quick work of it. Good luck.

Bryan
 
If you decide to do this, I taped off the header to turbo flange, did my grinding, cleaned everything up, removed the tape, then loosely bolted the turbo in place. Connect the DP, get it where you want it, then tighten everything up.

The DP flange can obviously be done outside of the car.
 
I was thinking about that after I typed it, but I don't think you'll have to turn it much. Is the pipe lined up side to side through the opening between the frame and the header?
 
It's off that way by about 3/4in as well, needs to be shifted in. Thinking I will just mount in and hang the hooker exhaust back on the hanger and then run in to a shop with the test pipe and have them cut and it and line it up and weld it back
 
Make sure it's not going to hit the frame, or you may be chasing some false knock around for awhile. Ask me how I know.:sneaky:
 
Instead of cutting the pipe, I would have the heat it up with a torch and pull it where it needs to be. Just a thought...

Bryan
 
That's what I thought first and didn't know if anyway has attempted this on 304 stainless with luck? I have a 3 in test pipe I thought about putting on it and just slowly putting it where I need it. If I could get 3/4 up and in I would be set.
 
loosen up the header bolts and rotate the header a bit, a small amount will move the pipe a bunch
 
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