3 gallon tank behind driver seat?

[techmx]

Hi Guys

this is for a T-72 Supra not a TR so please dont kill me



im building a water/alky kit (still waiting on the shurflo pump, solenoid, nozzle that i ordered online) and i was wondering if its a good idea to put a 3 gallon tank in the back of my driver seat? im not sure because i dont want the water/alky to delay injecting while my 15psi hobbs switch goes on. meaning the length from the tank to the pump to solenoid then to the spray nozzle is too long if it comes from behind the drivers seat.... and that split second delay would be too much and the water/alky might not get to the spray nozzle in time???

OR... if i place the solenoid close enough to the spray nozzle there wont be much delay???? i was thinking about running a line from behind my seat to the shurflo pump (~7-9 feet) in the spot where i removed my charcoal canister and then running the line from the shurflo pump to solenoid (~3-4 feet) then the solenoid to the nozzle (~1-2 feet)... these are just guesstimates



thanks

 

[Red Regal T]

The main problem with having the tank inside the car is the fire hazard. I guess if you're going to run a non flammable mixture, it would be OK. Personally, I don't think you need a tank that big. My one gallon tank, under the hood, lasts pretty long. I don't feel like I'm constantly adding in my methanol mixture. Shorter the hose the better off you'll be.

 

[ChrisChow]

I think you'd want the line as close to the injection point as possible. Is the entire line empty prior to injection?

I guess you could turn down the Hobbs switch to 12 psi that in effect, would counteract your delay.

Comments?

Suggestions?

Originally posted by techmx
Hi Guys

this is for a T-72 Supra not a TR so please dont kill me

im building a water/alky kit (still waiting on the shurflo pump, solenoid, nozzle that i ordered online) and i was wondering if its a good idea to put a 3 gallon tank in the back of my driver seat? im not sure because i dont want the water/alky to delay injecting while my 15psi hobbs switch goes on. meaning the length from the tank to the pump to solenoid then to the spray nozzle is too long if it comes from behind the drivers seat.... and that split second delay would be too much and the water/alky might not get to the spray nozzle in time???

OR... if i place the solenoid close enough to the spray nozzle there wont be much delay???? i was thinking about running a line from behind my seat to the shurflo pump (~7-9 feet) in the spot where i removed my charcoal canister and then running the line from the shurflo pump to solenoid (~3-4 feet) then the solenoid to the nozzle (~1-2 feet)... these are just guesstimates

thanks

 

[Razor]

If under hood area is a problem, why not relocate the battery to the rear of the car and in its place get a container for the alky. All you'll need is a gallon unless your road racing it at high boost for like an hour..

Point is.. it takes time for pump to prime, lines to fill, spray to happen then the alky gets into the cylinder..hence why shorter is better... great candidate car for the progressive controller I make.

Now if the car spools really slow... then it may not be an issue cuase you have time for those things to happen. if it spools fast, then you have to get alky in there before any boost level occurs that can cuase knock.

I use straight methanol,

Hope this helps..if not hollar

 

[1badTTA]

Originally posted by Razor
If under hood area is a problem, why not relocate the battery to the rear of the car and in its place get a container for the alky. All you'll need is a gallon unless your road racing it at high boost for like an hour..

If you wanted to do it in a stealth fashion, you could gut an old battery and use that as a resevior for your Alky Wouldn't be too difficult and would hold at least a gallon or more of Alky.

 

[techmx]

10-12psi hobbs switch might work pretty good! i didnt think of that... doh! thanks Chris!

i thought about relocating the battery too hmmm....


i have one question (it might be stupid):

is there a way i can flip the manual switch and have the pump start to run the water/alky through the line to the solenoid meaning by the time the turbo hits 15psi (the solenoid then opens and the water/alky goes to the spray nozzle) the only distance the water/alky has to travel is from the solenoid to the spray nozzle... therefore it would be practically instantaneous???

or is that not a good idea??? or not possible???

why is that all the DIY kits ive seen they activate the pump AND the solenoid at the same time?? im guessing because the majority of DIY kits are designed with the tank IN the engine bay so therefore lines are short....

or is that not a good idea???



hope i explained that correctly...


Well... ill try all that and see what works the best! if not then ill just use a 1/2 gallon tank in the engine bay OR just have the good stuff in gas tank


THANKS GUYS!

 

[Razor]

If the selenoid is closed..putting 12 volts to the pump and have it push into a closed selenoid may not be very good for the pump..it will be bouncing off its regulator big time.

but counting on your reaction time using a switch.. I would rather have electronic control.

You can beat ideas to death on this stuff...or you can do as others have done and be done with it.

So lets see, run a return style regulator thats boost referenced along with a control circuit for zero PSI activation and 15 PSI activation..better yet another circuit to fire more alcohol at 20 PSI..for what?..get a good controller, a couple hours latter your done without getting your hands too dirty and spending weeks on end taming the electronics/pressure/monster you created. Let alone figuring jetting pressure points etc.

This stuff is pretty easy, you can only complicate it by thinking too many scenario's... I will almost bet anything that a one gallon container may be more than you will ever require. its not a nitrous system..its alcohol injection..keep it simple

I personally hate hobbs switches,relays, tubing, extra fuses, wiring, etc..turn a simple couple hour job into a weekend project.

Just my .02

Julio

 

[ChrisChow]

Would you guys say that 1/2 gallon will be enough for 5 to 9 1/4mile passes?

Thanks in advance,

Chris

 

[salvageV6]

For the avg. 11 to 12 second car running one or two nozzles, yes.

 

[BADAZZV6]

I recently installed my 2 stage alky system using the shurflo pump and two solenoids. I have a "Y" block in the eng bay with a $20 summit fuel pressure gauge mounted in it. My car has been sitting for 4-5 days in the garage untouched. Every night I check the gauge and system pressure has dropped from 80psi to 75 psi. The internal check valve in the pump is working really well. Hope this helps.

 

[DMan]

Tech MX,

I have a 2.5 gallon tank in the trunk. The only other device I use to eliminate the delay is a solenoid very close to the nozzles. By using the solenoid, and the check valve in the pump, the line is always primed with 100+ psi of water/alky. By the time you fire the pump/solenoid combo, and the pressure in the line starts to drop, the pump is already spooled up. No delay.

If you're doing any kind of sustained spirited driving, a larger tank is more convenient.

Hope this helps.

 

[yellow95]

The shurflo pumps are excellent at holding pressure without cycling. Mine holds 60 lbs for days. ( I dont drive my car everyday).

Gary

 

[BADAZZV6]

Stevemon,
Thanks for posting the info. What pump pressure, nozzle setup are you using?

I'm running a Surflo pump (p/n 2687 i think) with a 80-100psi switch I installed. My nozzle set up is (4) aquamist nozzles (0.9mm).