"200-4R Tricks" Jakes Performance.

9SECVSIX

Member
Joined
May 25, 2001
Just wondering if anyone has done this mod and if it's OK with a dual feed application.
200-4R Fixed line pressure modifiaction for hi HP applications.
"Your looping TV supply oil to the TV boost valve and bypassing the line bias valve.
Thanks
B.
 
This modification was originated by the people at TCI and has been mimicked by many.I dont think it would be a problem with a dual feed set up but have not been a fan of it.The reason is it beats the **** out of the front pump assembly and kills throttle sensitive shift feel.The theory is good but not for a car that is driven around all over and for long periods of time.My solution has been the .555 boost valve which gives instant line rise because of its larger diameter .Also the factory uses lo boost oil in lo and d2.What I have been playing with is lo boost oil to give max line in lo d2 and d3.It uses a custom manual valve and valve body and plate mod so you can get max line and a 1/2 and 2/3 shift w/out moving the lever.This also requires a new lo boost valve.Most people have made larger ones that dont raise the pressure to line in lo and reverse.Diameters need to be biased.Keep looking thru the fence,I will be bringing it out to bark soon.Till then say no to fixed line pressure,it is a band aid repair and not a solution.
 
Constant pressure has it place. I agree with Chris its very hard on the pump and Not suited for daily driving. This was a trick for those who were too cheep the work on the TV cable geometry to get it correct. I personally use a dual pressure setup with my transbrake transmissions. Full line in manual 1-2-3 and TV cable in 4th. IMO best of both worlds. In 3rd gear full line for doing business. 4th gear on TV cable to take the sting out for normal driving. You need to decide if its right for you.
 
Constant pressure has it place. I agree with Chris its very hard on the pump and Not suited for daily driving. This was a trick for those who were too cheep the work on the TV cable geometry to get it correct. I personally use a dual pressure setup with my transbrake transmissions. Full line in manual 1-2-3 and TV cable in 4th. IMO best of both worlds. In 3rd gear full line for doing business. 4th gear on TV cable to take the sting out for normal driving. You need to decide if its right for you.
Your setup right there works awesome for my car. If I drive on the street, its in od and drives normal. At the track, it hasn't missed a beat yet. After 200+ low 10/high 9 passes, it still shows crisp shifts on the data log.
 
With this modification, can you eliminate the TV cable? I hate that cable.

This would be for a car that isn't daily driven, only cruised once in a while and raced.
 
Nope the TV cable is still needed. Even though it no longer raises line pressure it still controls the TV circuit for shift timing per throttle position. We should have the aluminum full manual reverse VB out in early 2012. that would require no tv cable.
 
Constant pressure has it place. I agree with Chris its very hard on the pump and Not suited for daily driving. This was a trick for those who were too cheep the work on the TV cable geometry to get it correct. I personally use a dual pressure setup with my transbrake transmissions. Full line in manual 1-2-3 and TV cable in 4th. IMO best of both worlds. In 3rd gear full line for doing business. 4th gear on TV cable to take the sting out for normal driving. You need to decide if its right for you.

I put the trick out there for free, so those who want it can use it. I also don't recommend it for daily driver usage typically but it's a good option on some of the harder hitting combos.
It works extremely well with the dual feed.
 
I put the trick out there for free, so those who want it can use it. I also don't recommend it for daily driver usage typically but it's a good option on some of the harder hitting combos.
It works extremely well with the dual feed.

I have used you method a couple times. Much easier than what I came up with for constant pressure.
 
I have used you method a couple times. Much easier than what I came up with for constant pressure.

I meant to mention in my last post your D3 constant pressure, D4 TV is the ideal method. I haven't sat down to figure that one out, too much time in the 4L80, 400, and 4R70 studies.
 
Thanks! for all the input guys. My first though was.."that has to be hard on the pump" I don't think this modification is going to be the best in this situation. Must find better ways to make direct live longer. Cars with big turbos, alky injection, heads, cams, etc running DR tires making big power are hard on the transmission at 1/2 throttle shifts when the line pressure isn't up to snuff. I see Sonnex has some TV valves on the market that suppose to rise line pressures soon, anyone have any thoughts on them? I'll be glad when I see my last 200-4R.
Thanks.
B.
 
Thanks! for all the input guys. My first though was.."that has to be hard on the pump" I don't think this modification is going to be the best in this situation. Must find better ways to make direct live longer. Cars with big turbos, alky injection, heads, cams, etc running DR tires making big power are hard on the transmission at 1/2 throttle shifts when the line pressure isn't up to snuff. I see Sonnex has some TV valves on the market that suppose to rise line pressures soon, anyone have any thoughts on them? I'll be glad when I see my last 200-4R.
Thanks.
B.

The sonnax TV valve and sleeve are precision to stop the leak to the TV limit. That wont raise the max line but if you have a worn TV valve and sleeve it will help the the rise at part throttle. The Sonnax piece will however allow for full throttle detent down shifts a little earlier not requiring the pedal to be pegged to the floor for detent down shifts. Direct clutches should not be an issue all the way into the low 9s when properly dual fed. If you main line is good then you can try a longer TV spring that will help to bring in the TV boost faster.
 
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