$2,400+free shipping BNIB SCAT Billet 3.625" stroker crank. ONE TIME DEAL ONLY

It would be nice if people such as Ernie would do some research before trying to take down a vendors hard work on this board. It used to not be that way at all but it is no different with private sellers or vendors. That is a real shame.

Tyler has put in a lot of hard work and effort to bring a BUNCH of products to this community that were not here before. And he is doing it at competitive prices on par or below that of other vendors. That is good for all of us.

I hope the members here appreciate that.
 
I agree with Reggie. And if the cost of this USA made billet crank is a deterrent, Tyler also advertises the chinese stuff as well for people with tighter budgets.
 
I think we all learned something here even Ernie. We do appreciate all that you make available to us & prices I'm sure of it. People sometimes say things & use poor wording without knowing exactly what they are talking about, I don't think he''s a bad guy, he just didn't think it out. Hey Ernie I opened the door for you if you wanted to chime in. Everybody have a Merry Christmas anyway!
 
Ernie is a good guy, as I said on post #20 he even tried to help this seller look for a item he was needing the other day. But nobody knows that but us three. It's time to close this thread and move on. Parts have been SOLD!!!
 
Dzoid1 said:
Ernie is a good guy, as I said on post #20 he even tried to help this seller look for a item he was needing the other day. But nobody knows that but us three. It's time to close this thread and move on. Parts have been SOLD!!!
Click to expand...

You are absolutely right. Ernie did go out of his way to help me find a Scanmaster, and I really do appreciate that.
His gesture with that tells me that he is a good guy, and I think Trashman said it best-maybe he just had poor wording and might not have exactly had all the information on what he was talking about

Ernie is just like the rest of us when we first started out-eager to help and learn.

I should have had more patience with him and been more understanding.

Trashman said:
I think we all learned something here even Ernie. We do appreciate all that you make available to us & prices I'm sure of it. People sometimes say things & use poor wording without knowing exactly what they are talking about, I don't think he''s a bad guy, he just didn't think it out. Hey Ernie I opened the door for you if you wanted to chime in. Everybody have a Merry Christmas anyway!
Click to expand...

You're right. I think this was just an honest misunderstanding.
 
Holy shit haha
I’m a famous ass hole now lol.
My apologies to the seller. I honestly thought all 4340s were the same at first.
I have done some research and learned it’s not true.
And me asking about if these crankshafts sold a lot . It was me just asking a honest question.
I wasn’t trying to be a smart ass at that point.


Some thing good came from this tho I think
(maybe,maybe not)
Probably my ass of a comment Bumped up the post ,someone seen it and he sold his part.

I’m actually in the market for a entire rotating assembly which is why I came across this post.
And since I’ve been looking at forged rotating assemblies when I seen the price I was like” holy shit”. that was my first thought.

But yeah that’s to much for me. I’m only going for 600 hp max.
 
That's an awesome crank at a great price Tyler if he even half the people on this board knew what that was you would have sold it within the first hour good luck with sale
 
Ernie GN said:
Holy shit haha
I’m a famous ass hole now lol.
My apologies to the seller. I honestly thought all 4340s were the same at first.
I have done some research and learned it’s not true.
And me asking about if these crankshafts sold a lot . It was me just asking a honest question.
I wasn’t trying to be a smart ass at that point.


Some thing good came from this tho I think
(maybe,maybe not)
Probably my ass of a comment Bumped up the post ,someone seen it and he sold his part.

I’m actually in the market for a entire rotating assembly which is why I came across this post.
And since I’ve been looking at forged rotating assemblies when I seen the price I was like” holy shit”. that was my first thought.

But yeah that’s to much for me. I’m only going for 600 hp max.
Click to expand...
Not just you, but way too many guys hear a few specs on something and suddenly all cranks are the same. Not so. 4340 is a steel type. I can make you a $400 crank or a $4000 crank...and there are about 4-5 guys on here that can tell me why. These pissing contests about "billet" and "forged" are older then cars themselves. There are applications for both. Still....the steel type is not what determines the final product.
I haven't stepped into one of these debates since I rejoined the board, but I'm about to make a sticky explaining this damn debate. Before you buy any internal engine part....you should consult with your builder and see if it meets the criteria needed for YOUR application....not just the engine you happen to be building. You may buy it and its Overkill....or not quite what you need. Problem is most dont know that said part can be made stronger if needed.....we do it all the time with Big Block Chevy cranks. We buy a forged Eagle or Scat $1000 crank....then scope it, and acid drop it. once it proves to be the correct metal that's pure and not stressed....we can use it. After a series of different heat treating processes....it will be what we need, and we did not spend $4000.
In future posts....maybe a little knowledge will help avoid this shit.
 
gunzandgearz said:
That's an awesome crank at a great price Tyler if he even half the people on this board knew what that was you would have sold it within the first hour good luck with sale
Click to expand...

Thanks David. Good to hear from you.

Coach said:
Not just you, but way too many guys hear a few specs on something and suddenly all cranks are the same. Not so. 4340 is a steel type. I can make you a $400 crank or a $4000 crank...and there are about 4-5 guys on here that can tell me why. These pissing contests about "billet" and "forged" are older then cars themselves. There are applications for both. Still....the steel type is not what determines the final product.
I haven't stepped into one of these debates since I rejoined the board, but I'm about to make a sticky explaining this damn debate. Before you buy any internal engine part....you should consult with your builder and see if it meets the criteria needed for YOUR application....not just the engine you happen to be building. You may buy it and its Overkill....or not quite what you need. Problem is most dont know that said part can be made stronger if needed.....we do it all the time with Big Block Chevy cranks. We buy a forged Eagle or Scat $1000 crank....then scope it, and acid drop it. once it proves to be the correct metal that's pure and not stressed....we can use it. After a series of different heat treating processes....it will be what we need, and we did not spend $4000.
In future posts....maybe a little knowledge will help avoid this shit.
Click to expand...

I know you and I have discussed this previously, and I completely agree with you. I think if you were to write up a sticky it would be really beneficial for a lot of people.

Most see "billet" and think it is stronger. That isn't the case, as you've told me. I keep thinking the "M&M" or "Jawbreaker" analogy.

Just as you told me some builders only use forged, and some only use billet, it is entirely based on the application. One is not inherently better or stronger than the other. It is entirely on the design/heat treating done to it.

I know I would really appreciate it if you posted a sticky. It would something we could post as a reference to people to understand that one isn't better than another. More often than not a basic forged crank with typical heat treating done to it will be fine.

If I remember correctly from what you told me, in order to find out what is the stronger piece, you need to contact the crank manufacturer and find out their heat treating processes used. That is really the only way to tell/decide. If I remembered incorrectly please let me know.
 
I agree with coach there is quite a bit to the ins and outs of crankshafts doesn't really matter necessarily if it's forged or Billet mainly what material it's made of grain structure heat treatment twist or non twist forging fillet area which is where they break most of the time there are quite a few factors that go into these crankshaft we used to take 400 cubic inch small block Chevrolet crankshaft and turn them down and put them in 350 blocks that would make about 500 horsepower roughly then spray 200 horses worth of nitrous to the engine and these were stock 400 cubic inch cast crankshafts that had a large radius on the journals we would pull the engines down at the end of the year and mag them they would have small hairline cracks along the journal area but we're fine because of the large radius we never broke one but I will say most people don't know this that are on this board and this keeps people like myself not that I know it all and and don't claim to off of this board or from trying to help people out and make comments because of all the idiot keyboard Cowboys that look at a comment go search it on Google and repeat what they just read but don't know Jack it's sad and it keeps the people that really want to learn from getting valuable information from people that are in the field or have done a bunch of this anyway just my two cents hopefully you do put some stuff up coach don't know if I will learn from it but I very well could as you might say something or bring something up that I haven't heard before and this will be good for all of us if it's one thing that I've learned over the 30 years in this industry is I learn something new everyday and that's what keeps me moving forward in this high performance world
 
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