1987 Grand national question

thank you all for helping out.
hopefully i can come across a good deal on a GN or TR.if ya dallas guys ever come across a GN please let me know.i really want these car and im willing to work on it every weekend to make sure everything is right and in place.
 
I'm 27 own my house and have my we4. I drove five hours one way to go get it. I've had it for a year and have put 7k into it fixing all the things that were wrong with it when I bought it
 
So your saying 40k for that property, not bad at all as long as it is not in the hood and the foundation is good, the kid needs to jump on something like that.
Not in the hood at all, solid foundation..needs all new appliances, new trim on the outside and paint, needs bathroom redone, needs all new carpet inside and paint, new rear glass sliding door, 1 wall that needs to be redone as it has water damage from a leaking refrig, and needs a new central AC and heat unit. 1160sq/ft brick exterior with 2 car garage. Corner lot. This is currently the most run down house in the neighborhood. In Azle, TX
Got another one that is in the hood but only 1 bd rm, 700 sq/ft but has a 1/2 acre lot that would take even less for.
DSC06615.jpg
 
Not in the hood at all, solid foundation..needs all new appliances, new trim on the outside and paint, needs bathroom redone, needs all new carpet inside and paint, new rear glass sliding door, 1 wall that needs to be redone as it has water damage from a leaking refrig, and needs a new central AC and heat unit. 1160sq/ft brick exterior with 2 car garage. Corner lot. This is currently the most run down house in the neighborhood. In Azle, TX
Got another one that is in the hood but only 1 bd rm, 700 sq/ft but has a 1/2 acre lot that would take even less for.
DSC06615.jpg

Not a bad starter home, most of the things needing done people do anyways when they buy. Good luck with it.
 
dashoekid21, i have to work tomorrow but i will call you sat. to set up a time this weekend to go look at it. Chances are this wont be the car for you but we will use it as a learning experience on what to look for. This is the time for you to get educated about these cars so line up some cars for you to go look at even ones you cant afford so you can see what money these things bring. Also go to gnttype.org (sorry for the name drop) go to the resource tab on the right and click on buyer guide, v6 history, tr basics, spring cleaning, rpo, vin decoding and anything that may interest you and read and read and read. Print out the rpo codes for us this weekend along with the vin decoding. Dont be in a hurry to buy, good deals are always out there. When i was young i got pissed off when deals would not work out, thinking that the car was the only one for me, but a few weeks later i found a better one so be patient. In a few months people will be getting spring fever and want something else and deals will come around. Now is just the time to learn. Talk to you Sat.
Greg
 
are you being sarcastic?
im trying to learn as much about this car before i buy.

I had a new 86 GN and new 87 GN then sold them and in 1990 I bought my current 87 GN with about 5,000 mi from the 1st owner. I currently have over 124,000 mi.

It's all stock except for a K&N air filter.
Below are the only parts I had to change besides the normal stuff such as:
- oil chg-filter
- PCV
- grease jobs
- fuel and air filters
- plugs, plug wires
- chg coolant and flush rad every 3 yrs
- front and rear brakes
- bleed brakes every 3-5 yrs.
- grease front wheel bearings after the 2nd set of pads

Some major stuff:
- power master
- 2 air accumulator balls for the brakes
- 2 coil packs and modules
- battery
- 1 rear brake line (RH)
- both rear wheel cyl
- both emerg cables
- TCC solinoid and pressure switches
- tranny filter/fluid chg
- tires
- shifter handle
- 1 set of mufflers
- 1 set of tail pipes
- 1 set of pipes over the axle
- AC freon charge
- MAF sensor
- POSI fluid
- under warranty - oil cooler adapter and oil pump cover
- front shocks
- heater blower motor
- AC switch
- water pump
- heater core
- water thermostat
- starter
- brake rotors
- door weatherstrips (both)
- heater control valve
- turn rear brake drums
 
I'm 27 own my house and have my we4. I drove five hours one way to go get it. I've had it for a year and have put 7k into it fixing all the things that were wrong with it when I bought it

My spending experience has been similar, I put about $2k in my car every year, but I've had it four years and I put 10k miles a year on it and probably 50 passes or so. That calculates to 20 cents per mile or $40 per pass or divided equally between the two, it calculates to 10 cents per miles and $20 per pass. Now I'm no mathmetician, but I do sell cars and if you can trade for 20 cents per mile than you're doing ok, so to drive a bad azz muscle car, desimate modern muscle, still get good mpgs, listen to the spool, make friends-neighbors-and any passengers poop a little when in the car, then the value of these cars is incredible. AND the more you drive them, the more the $ you spend on them makes sense! And going to and from work is sooo much better in a turbo regal. Lastly, I rode in the car I own when I was 10 in 1990, and I bought it 17 years later at a good price, but I've spent double what I paid getting it into the shape it is and it was bone stock drivetrain wise when I got. They are hard to find, but an unmolested drivetrain in a TR is the best place to start unless you know how these cars should be built. It may not be quite as reliable as my GTP Grand Prix but a 3800 motor is tough. Most ruin them for simply pushing too hard on a bad tune. For conservative tuners, these cars will last a long time.
 
Ok so here is my input / advice:
Since you have a daily driver, buy what you want. At 21 years of age, a classic muscle car is a good investment provided that you buy the right one. In my mid 20's I had the same itch for a muscle car. In my case I had to get a 70-72 cutlass. I looked for a few years and found a nice one for a great price. This was back in the mid 90s. I had finished University and after busting my ass for 4 years for my engineering degree, got a decent job and decided it was time for a cool car. I was still living at home and had a newer daily driver and since I live in Canada and could only driver the car a few months of the year, I figured what the heck buy a convertible. Was it practical? No? Did it make sense? Depends on who you asked, but to most the answer was no. I had the money and steady girlfriend so I knew that marriage was in the future. All of this didn't matter because worse case senario, I would just sell it. Five years latter, after getting married and buying a house, I sold it. The house I bought did not have a garage and it killed me to see the car sitting outside with a car cover and 2ft of snow on it. I doubled my money which shut-up the nay sayers. Now, years latter I am looking to buy another muscle car. I am focusing on a GN because it is unique and more modern (safer, reliable, etc) then older classics.
My moral here is buy the car! But, focus on some key points:
1) Buy more than your current budget. You will make up the difference latter with less headache and more retained value.
2) Be prepared to get your hands dirty. If you want a classic car, this is part of the package.
3) Women don't get these cars. Buy one now before you get married. Ask me how I know,
4) Lower milage vehicles are worth a lot more then modded versions. Keep this in mind if your not going to keep it long term.
5) Check with your insurance company first, before you buy. You may find a big difference between a GN and a TR.
6) If you don't like attention, don't buy one. People will ask questions, want to race, cut you off, key your car etc..

Hope this helps.
 
try to get the car and a house.it will motivate you.jump in the deep water you will learn to swim faster while everyone else sits on the shore playing it safe or wondering what to do or if its the right time to do it..set goals and try to achieve them.;)
 
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