1985 Buick Turbo T-Type (White) For Sale

Soundwave

New Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2008
Selling: A 1985 Buick Turbo T-Type (Hot-Air). The car is Factory GM White, with a Blue-interior. Factory equipped digital dash, shift on the steering column, pwr-windows, pwr-door-locks and factory T-Tops. The car has 132k-miles and is a daily driver, runs well, is adult owned and has a recent Massachusettes Inspection sticker, Under my ownership the car has been well maintained (I believe I'm the second owner). I recently had the car tuned-up. There have been no modifications to the car under my ownership. Although, when I got the car a lot of things where wrong and I went about making repairs in an attempt to establish a base-line. In order to get the car to function as a T-Type. When I bought the car it had no A/C compressor or canister, the heater and blower motor were dead, the wastegate and actuator arm were not functioning and boost was non-existent. The directionals were frozen and the TPS-sensor was not set properly and as a result the car Idled irratically. Also, the IAC-motor was frozen (Probably just age) and needed to be replaced. And the two (2) rear tires where as old as the car. The car never had a radio in it and I never got around to putting one back in. I just wanted to get the car running right. Long story short; The car builds decent boost (for a hot-air). It idles Great and shifts Good and the heat works again with the addition of functional directionals. But theres still no a/c. Sorry. The interior is in good shape for its age with only some small tears in the drivers-side seat (nothing major). The paint still looks good for it's age (someone did a decent wet sand job on it). The Glass is crystal clear. The weather seals leak when it rains and need replacing (t-tops, window-sills, doors). And I have deducted that cost off of the asking price of the car. The doors sag a bit but still lock and close well. The power-window-motors need replacing and the only one that still operates well is the drivers-side. There is rust in the typical places (under the doors, and some small spots on the bootom of the car). Nothing that detracts from the overall appearance because the car still looks good! I put a New Optima Deep Cylce battery in it as well as NGK plugs, MSD plug wires with looms, fuel filter, new vacuum hoses, alternator, New belts, oil change and filter, New Blower motor, heater switch and relay. And two Brand New Stinger GT (raised white letter) tires on the rear. It has a New IAC motor and all the repairs have been made. with all that done I'm still getting a code 31 (wastegate actuator solenoid). But the car still runs great! But it still should be replaced. I think thats everything...? I'm not an expert on the car and had a certified mechanic in my area do the work. And he's a good mechanic and is good at diagnosing problems. If you can think of anything I have missed please feel free to drop me an email and I'll do my best to answer any questions you may have. leave your phone number if you need directions to my area. Westboylston, MA 01583. I'm asking $5200.00. And have 27 pictures of the car that I can send if you leave me your e-mail address. I can be reached at blackmoon_icemin@yahoo.com. And this time I have all the pictures ready and backed-up on two computers. Buying the car gets you these parts for free: A Brand New set of Moog front and rear coil springs (in the box), Brand New door pins and sleeves and a Brand New single (1), front-KYG Gas-A-Just front shock and two (2) Brand new pwr-window motors. There just extra parts and I wont be needing them. But if I had decided to put all this stuff in I would have to adjust the selling price. This way (hopefully) you save on the purchasing of the car, get some free parts and hopefully know someone who can help you out with the install of them. We are in a recession and in times like these sometimes it doesn't hurt to help a little. Thank's !
 
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