IMHO... your boost gauge is wrong or your timing is waaaaaaaaaaayyyyy low to get away with that kind of boost on pump fuel. It is an accident waiting to happen.
16.4 knock
- Thread starter corymc
- Start date
IMHO... your boost gauge is wrong or your timing is waaaaaaaaaaayyyyy low to get away with that kind of boost on pump fuel. It is an accident waiting to happen.
Must be the magic EGR plate
Grumpy swears by iridium plugs... and Optima red top batteries....
:biggrin:
1st things first....
I would recommend adjusting your wastegate rod all the way out as far as you can..... you need to get it adjusted where you only have to pull it about 1/8" to hook it to the puck arm. This is the minimum boost setting. From this point.... adjust the RJC out (making it longer) until you can only get the threads started and tight by a turn and a half or so...... then lock the jamnut down. This will be the minimum setting with the RJC attached.
If this setting is too high on boost... and you have the fuel and timing right.... you will have to back up and punt.....
This is what I would recommend as a start...
As you desire to turn up the boost from there.... only adjust the RJC.... leave the wastegate rod alone...
thank you for trying to insult me. if you would read i never wanted to set the boost at 20 it just ended up there when i put on the boost controller. I know how much i can run it even says so on the chip. this engine is almost brand new less than 800 miles. i have only had the car 1.5 years and i pulled rebuilt and installed the engine, i must not have enough knowledge according to you.
i understand that you cant or your not supposed to run 20 on 94 octane. everything on the engine is new or modified except the tb is still stock and i have worked on plenty of cars too.
did that today before i took it out and still got 10.4 on 16#
You filled in the missing information in that next post right before I submitted my response. I was responding to the first post where you didnt give enough info to work with. Look at the times of the posts...they're 3 minutes apart.
If I were trying to insult you, I wouldnt have wasted so much effort writing such a long post....Ive got a few minutes of automotive/TR experience under my belt and the advise is real and intended to help. Your engine having been rebuilt not long ago means nothing. All the things I mentioned could still be a very real issue. A rebuild usually doesnt include all new hoses, injectors, sensors, etc...My engine had been rebuilt 4000 miles before I got my car, but it barely ran because of all the things I mentioned in my long insulting post. And the 24 pounds on 94 octane thing....when I read that in your PM last week it freaked me out. The knock sensor doesnt pick up both detonation AND pre-ignition. For about 9 months I was driving around on 89 octane (gas prices when they first shot to 3 bucks) and 18psi and 25 degrees timing, and damn near blowing my motor up because the scanmaster showed no knock. My car seemed like a freak of nature. The popcorn sound it made at WOT sounded like no form of detonation Ive ever heard of before, so I thought it was something else....but one day I pulled a bunch of timing out and that noise went away. Turned out I had been detonating like a madman for 9 months and didnt know it...cant believe the motor never blew. Its extremely hard to believe that your motor can be pushing 24psi with no knock on 94...its impossible....theres something wrong there....
yeah i re read the post but the begining was kinda insulting to me but its cool im sorry i was a dick about you trying to help me out. i have all new hoses, injectors, sensors, the only sensor i didnt replace was the fan over ride due to it not being availible at my delco parts suppiler. 20# was a mistake due to me putting on the rjc bc. i didnt cut any corners rebuilding the engine. i never had a pop until now im kinda stumped but i will have some time this weekend to work on it. oh yeah i use wood dowel rods to listen in the engine works pretty good
When you say you're running 20psi and dont mention in the first post that it was a mistake, it kinda leaves you looking like you may not know its bad. There was only 1 way to get an idea of how experienced you were.
As for the wood dowels, yeah thats one way to listen for mechanical problems, but it cant pick up vacuum leaks. The propane test is useless as are most intake manifold vacuum leak tests. The hose as a stethoscope is the only way thats ever worked for me. I not only found massive leaks at the injectors, but some intake gasket leaks as well. Is there a vacuum signal at the EGR diaphragm hose at idel by any chance? There shouldnt be.
Junior Samples
Walk Away
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2007
Brent (vader), i think you added some of my post with cory's
I swear man..lol its pullen like a fright train, no poppin, i bumped fuel across the board, timing and my boost gauge, egt, are correct but im done messin around, im turnin it down cause i trust the judgment of this board and the members on it. Its not dumb to be smart...
but it all started with that killer cnc'd egr block off plate that Vader made for me complete with engraved turbo spool and buick6 on it.... on sale now contact vader for info. But once i put that on....my car is now real fast...
I swear man..lol its pullen like a fright train, no poppin, i bumped fuel across the board, timing and my boost gauge, egt, are correct but im done messin around, im turnin it down cause i trust the judgment of this board and the members on it. Its not dumb to be smart...
but it all started with that killer cnc'd egr block off plate that Vader made for me complete with engraved turbo spool and buick6 on it.... on sale now contact vader for info. But once i put that on....my car is now real fast...
Junior Samples
Walk Away
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2007
Cory whats your fuel set at wot all gears on chip? bump it up 6%
i got complete cold air via duct at airdam and my air temp on I-75 was reading about 39 degrees, plus i turned my crazy boost back down to 17
i got complete cold air via duct at airdam and my air temp on I-75 was reading about 39 degrees, plus i turned my crazy boost back down to 17
Brent (vader), i think you added some of my post with cory's
but it all started with that killer cnc'd egr block off plate that Vader made for me complete with engraved turbo spool and buick6 on it.... on sale now contact vader for info. But once i put that on....my car is now real fast...
Gotta post a pic for me. It'll also let me see the chamfer you added for clearance, which is something I need to add to the cnc program, since it seems some people will have different clearances. I just hope the different screw you used is the same style and is flush with the slotted counterbore I made. If its just a hex headed bolt then I'm not sure how it'll look.
Got Cory all sorted out today.
He's stuck with a high boost actuator - so I hooked it up tuner style so the boost wouldn't go higher than 18-19psi.
I added 10% WOT fuel and it was still lean and getting some KR - so I went +15% and pulled 2* of high gear timing. The knock went away - but it was still lean. I maxed the fuel out on the chip - and we hit pay dirt. The car really woke up. 780 02's (for what they are worth) and no knock.
I think his chip needs to go back to Eric and be re burnt with the +20% WOT fuel as the "0" starting point. As it'd probably pick up even more with more fuel added to it.
He's stuck with a high boost actuator - so I hooked it up tuner style so the boost wouldn't go higher than 18-19psi.
I added 10% WOT fuel and it was still lean and getting some KR - so I went +15% and pulled 2* of high gear timing. The knock went away - but it was still lean. I maxed the fuel out on the chip - and we hit pay dirt. The car really woke up. 780 02's (for what they are worth) and no knock.
I think his chip needs to go back to Eric and be re burnt with the +20% WOT fuel as the "0" starting point. As it'd probably pick up even more with more fuel added to it.
