128BL@idle only, everywhere else 160!

T62TTA

New Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2004
I have an 89TTA with bolt on T-62, 009, 3400stall, Translator plus with Extender, Car since I'm owned it has always ran ****ty. I have the boost set at 10-12 lb for now with a 93 Extender chip and FP is at 43psi. 80k miles all stock internals.

3"MAF on setting 5 for base keeps idle Blm at 128 +- 3 seems to work good for idle settings.

Car has a misfire it seems, idle fair but with the car in park you blimp the throttle, the car wants to shut off mometarily. New AC delco O2, PCV valve, Spray Carb cleaner no change, new billet Vacuum port, no change. The MAF is a used one and I haven't yet tested with a good known one. I did the tapping test on the sensor and it doesn't stall.

I check compression on all cylinders and there all between 152-160psi. I should get the Casper Coil pack tester tomorrow to check for a weak coil and or module. New spark plug wires, spark plugs seem alright, brownish and a little gray on them. This is driving me insane. I'm sure I have an exhaust leak by the passenger manifold as I could hear some ticking coming from that side but for it to cause BLM to go to 160 thats ridiculous.

Last night I read all the archives on high BLM and I have a Mighty Vac. So far I tested the EGR by applying vacuum directly and it holds. The Vacuum needle to manifold at idle reads a steady 18.5"PSI and slowly bounces at times withing .5 psi. The car is awfully rich. The misfire is at idle and on load. The idle seems to get better if I choose to idle in open loop with the Extender Chip but everywhere else, anykind of throttle the car stumbles, leans out, no power, especially the harder you get on the throttle. However when you ease into it, the car feels a little better.

The worst part is while driving it. From a dead stop if you floor the throttle the car just feels like someone turned it off and slowly let it turn back on. NO POWER Whatsoever. I can't even outrun a Jaguar, thats pathetic. The car needs some CPR, Mouth to Mouth resusition or a heart transplant. HELP!

One thing I forgot to mention is the Boost Solenoid by the PS Valve cover is just there. Theres two ports, nothing is hooked to them. How does this affect driveability and if theres vacuum hoses or check valve how do I hook it up?
 
Originally posted by T62TTA
I'm sure I have an exhaust leak by the passenger manifold as I could hear some ticking coming from that side but for it to cause BLM to go to 160 thats ridiculous.

Actually, no, that's par for the course. Pre-O2 sensor exhaust leaks are worse than vacuum leaks. At least air that leaks in on the intake side gets mixed with fuel and burned. Air that leaks in an exhaust leak is unmolested 20% oxygen air. It sends that O2 sensor way lean and bam, you're dumping gas like there's no tomorrow.

If you're reading 128 at idle, then that extender is probably set in open-loop idle mode. Get the instructions and switch it back to closed loop mode.

The bogging and hesitation you feel when stepping on the gas is because it's running pig fat rich. The exhaust leaks before the turbo are also leaking pressure that normally would be used to spin the compressor. That's going to cause a lot of lag.

MAF failure would be apparent, but don't trust the tap test. I had a MAF go, but it "tapped" just fine at idle.

As for your boost solenoid, with an aftermarket Turbo, it probably isn't really useful unless the chip is calibrated specifically for it. Check the part number on your extender to make sure. If you have the right chip, then do some searches and get the hose routing for the solenoid and hook it back up (I don't remember it all off the top of my head, sorry).

You need to fix the exaust leaks first. Then move on to diagnosing the fuel system, MAF, and vacuum lines.

Keep your food out of it and change the oil often (like every 500 miles) until you have this under control, or you could spin a bearing.
 
I noticed you said you have the Translator + on the car. Where is it mounted and where are the wires ran. I had a similar problem after I installed the T+. I was getting interference with the way I had the wiring ran. I just did this last week is why it's still fresh on my brain.
 
Maf translator plus is routed

from ignition wires. I try running it as far as possible but the length of the cable is limited, so its near it but not touching it. I remember reading in a prior post on a method with GM top engine cleaner to check for exhaust leaks but have no idea on the way to do is. Could someone explain it to me?

NO the Extender is now in Closed Loop and will stay closed to 128 from 124 to around 130 with the T+ set on setting 5 for base fuel for the 3"MAF. When I have the DS hook up I could see the BLM's all 160 except for Cell 1 (idle) and when I open the throttle rapidly and after the throttle closes I could see the BLM stay in the cell next to the idle cell, cell 2 for a little while and see the integrator go to like 110 before settling back in the 1 idle cell causing an abrubt stall and nearly turning the car off. While the car is just idling you could hear a noticeable miss and when I put on the gas analizer in a friends smog shop he stated I had a lean misfire and thought one cylinder was low on compression. However, as I mention before, the compression checks out. Keep the suggestions and comments coming. I'm going to try a known good MAF to see if that may be the cause of the problem.
 
What directon is the arrow on the MAF suppose to be pointing?

I currently have the arrow pointing in the direction of the Turbo Outlet side. In the opposite direction of the K & N cone filter. Is this correct? Also, the sensor is used(bought from E-bay private seller) and when I initially attempted to install it to the T+, I somehow had the connectors to the T+ incorrect and a SES light code 34 persisted. Then I figured I had installed the connectors wrong and after connecting the harness correctly, No more SES or Code stored. Could this have damaged anything?
 
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