10.5" Baby Pro Mod ?'s

[Michael McCoy]

We're in the process of putting a 10.5W TR & have a few questions for you guys. Here's some specs first of all: it's an '87 TR that utilizes a firewall-back chromemoly tube frame & cage, a 4-link/a wishbone/& an anti-roll bar, 9" disc brake rear, 28"X10.5"s or 31"X10.5W's, glass bumpers w/aluminum struts, a pin-on hood, a pin-on trunk lid, 1 JAZ racing seat, lexan windshield & rear glass, TRZ tubular control arms set up for coils & stock shocks, Aerospace brakes at all 4 corners, no inner fenderwells/ac/or heater, steel doors w/ the horizontal braces removed & lexan windows, stock dash, a powerglide, and basically a stock motor (for now since everything else is going to suck us dry!). Anybody have an idea as to what it might weigh? It will have the usual battery & fuel cell in the trunk set-up as well Centerline Warriors & MT rubber. It's going to be a copy of Rick's car (GNX-XRAY, white w/WO2 package & grey interior, for those who never saw it) except for the fender flares & the Ed Quay wing on the deck lid. What gear do you think would work well with the 28's & with the 31's?. How much stall do you guys feel is enough for this type of car? Thanks for the input.

 

[twizz]

i'm not sure how close anybody is going to be able to tell you the weight, but it sounds like you'll be in the 3000lbs range if you kept stock frame rails up front.

tire size is going to depend on what you do with the engine. a friend has a TTA clone with a 252 twin turbo engine, runs low 8's, weights 3200, and he uses a 33x10.5W, but has to make a change to 31x10.5 due to class rule changes. the 31's work, but again, it will depend on the RPMs your engine is capable of, and the gearing in the rear. is your glide a lockup?? if not, consider using a lockup, b/c it helps a LOT on a turbo car.

 

[Michael McCoy]

Thanks for the info twizz. I've got some friends running 33"X10.5W's with lockup convertors, but they're also high 4.60/160MPH eighth mile cars too! I doubt the little 6 will make that much HP, but we'll just have to try a few combos out & see how everything works. I'm going to weigh the car after "getchasum"s dad gets it ready for paint. It will still have the stock framerails under it then & as well as be motor & tranny-less, but it will give us a base line as to how much weight we will have lost with the tube frame. We'll probably redo the front crossmember & shave some #'s there too.

 

[John Wilde]

Michael,

Please send me an email with pictures of your car.
What classes do you expect to run?
Will your car be 25.1 D legal???

You may want to start around 3.90
It is the max I have run on a 28inch tall tire TR.
It will work ok with the 31 inch tall tires.
You could run a 4.10 like Alan Witter did.
Most of the turbo mustag guys run 3.5 or 3.7
with a 28 inch tall tire
Actually he would be a good person to contact.


TWIZZ,

Who is your friend with the Fire Bird?
Tell me much more!!!!

 

[Michael McCoy]

Hey John. It will be a 25-1C car for sure. It will never be a threat in the 10'5 races with such a small motor (unless I get set out 4 car lengths & get the break!!), so it will most likely just be considered "grudge racing" car. I've still got those Stage 2 heads I bought from you years ago. Never have used those things & probably never will. I was thinking a hi-3 or low-4 series gear would work best, but we'll just have to see. Fill us in on the twin turbo TTA clone plesae twizz.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Sum ideas and comments

Mike, the wt of the car being over 3000# could pose a problem using a glide... may not short time well.. Due to the low gear ratio of 1.76, in order to get the car to leave, you will have to use a LOOSE verter. This will cause finish line rpm problems, considering the stock block won't live well at 6500!!
In the FWIW dept:
My yellow car was a back half w/ 4 link, lightened drs,glas hood and bumpers and deck lid. Interior was stock, w/ 2 race seats.
Production 231 Ruggles and a T-400, 9" Ford. 3080# without driver.

I used a 3.90 gear and large tires. 14 x 32 x 15....the engine was outta breath at the finish line...

Have fun! Remember this: to become a millionaire drag racing, start w/ 2 million!!!

PS: I'd look at the Hoosier radial slicks B4 the MT's were purchased.. I'm seeing good results on some stockers w/ them!

 

[Chris Taylor]

I see now where the funds went for the yellow T.

I am in the process of doing the same set up on the silver T. I am thinking about using race weight fiberglass. I have talked to a few guys using glides and it can be done. I decided to go with a TH 400 and T brake. This way I can keep the RPM's down on the top end. I hope the car will weigh in around 2800#. I think I can do it without glass doors.

I want to see pics. of the hot rod. I will be glad when you come get this yellow T out of my way.

 

[Fatsix]

anyone get their car down in the 2700-2800 range without driver? thats where i need to be. Only thing else i can think to do is cut the front cross member out and put in a tubular peice.

 

[protracracing]

If you are going to use 28 tall tires and a stock block motor I
would put a 3.50 gear in the back.My car at 3300 lbs with driver
with a 3.70 gear and a turbo 400 and 28" tall tires is going through the traps at 6100rpm .Running at 10.238 at 130.5.
Hope this helps ,
Dennis Butt
88 mustang gt 10.238 130.5 mph (buick powered)
86 t-type 12.55 105mph (wifes car)
http://www.netsnapshot.com/b?KEY=0&ACCOUNT=3232

 

[KendallF]

I put a 3.50 gear in mine (29.5x10.5Ws). I figure I'll be lucky to get 10% slippage on the converter (at best) and that will work out to ~6500 RPM at 150 MPH. On a stock block, light car, a lot of gear isn't going to be the ticket.

 

[John Wilde]

3.50 are a great choice if you are only using the 28inch tall tires.
They will not work very well with 31X10.5 W.

I think you need to figure out which tire you will use more and
set your car up for it.

Michael also said it is a stock motor FOR NOW.
Who wants to set up the car again?

I have run a stock block big cam roller motor with 3.90
and 28.5 X10.5 with out a problem. You will need to
build the motor " cam selection" to run 6300 to 6500
through the traps. I have run a 224 cam and big M&A
Heads and also a custom 230 ++ cam in this application.
Talk to Harry at Precision if you want another opinion.
He helped me spec out the combination.

My friend went 10.4 @ 128 in a full weight stock block
and suspension with 3.90 gears. Only 23psi.

We also have had good luck with 3.90 with a 29.5X10.5W
in a stage 2 twin turbo. 9.17 @ 150 with very low boost


FYI Duttweiler told me to go with a glide and a 4.30 gear
for the pro car I was building. It was to run 33X17 and
weigh about 3000LBS.


Pictures please!!!!! who did the chassis????

 

[Michael McCoy]

John it's a Hank Hill chassis (former pilot of a 814ci. NMCA T-bird) & it looks like 28's will be the way to go. Most of our tracks are eighth mile, so a quick small tire car is more enjoyable than fat- tired bracket racers! I'll hold off on the pics for now as it's not too pretty just yet. Thanks for the info Kendall, CL, Chris (I'll still end up with your yellow car somehow!), Dennis, & fatsix.

 

[John Wilde]

Michael,

What did the chassis work cost you?
Since you are staying with the smaller
tire a 3.50 or 3.70 will be your best choice.
The 3.50 with give you high 1/4 Mile MPH potential.