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[AM86]

Hello all, just a quick Q for you guys... I went to the track and raN 12.65@110mph I'm using a Turbotweak chip burned for 50lb inj and allky I have never touched the settings in the past and now want to see what the car can really do. any tips for tonight at the track and how and where to add timing and fuel? it gives me the option of adding or taking fuel away WOT and to add timing in 1st and 2nd gears and also in 3rd and 4th.

running a te-44 turbo,50lb inj,allky,BFG drag tires on stock GN rims,intercooler with a dutt neck,3in terry houston downpipe, at 20psi

 

[Blazer406]

You need a scan tool like DirectScan to tune it. It is much easier to do it with a scan tool. These cars are not like the older carb'd cars.... where you bump up timing... or something else to see if it picks up. It can be dangerous in a turbo car... w/o using a scan tool.

With 110 mph trap speed... and a 12.6x.... you must not have a very good 60' time... What was the 60'? 110 mph should be enough for easy low 12's .... maybe dip into the 11's..... just gotta get the 60' time down.

 

[AM86]

Update... went to the track tonight and ran 12.40@111.5mph 60ft was 1.95 reaction .050. 20psi I have noticed that my blm on the scanmaster seems to always be at 150 can anyone give me A bit of insight on this number... thanks a ton with any help...

 

[Blazer406]

Update... went to the track tonight and ran 12.40@111.5mph 60ft was 1.95 reaction .050. 20psi I have noticed that my blm on the scanmaster seems to always be at 150 can anyone give me A bit of insight on this number... thanks a ton with any help...

IMHO The BLM # is an indication of the long term fuel trim the computer is doing to make the fuel/air ratio correct. It seems kinda high... but that is not a good thing to tune by at the track. You need to look at the O2's (mV) throughout the run and see what they did.... and of course.... knock count and spark retard. Try for O2's around 790-800 (no less)... and no spark retard. Don't worry too much about a BLM of 150 at the track.... it is more for continuous driving.... A BLM of 150 suggest the ECM was adding fuel over and above what the ECM had in the fuel tables. This value on a tweaked and tuned car... driving around not at WOT... should settle around 128.... if that number is higher... ECM is adding fuel...... if it is lower than 128.... ECM is trimming fuel.

Make any sense?

HTH

 

[pacecarta]

no you dont need to make runs and look at your O2s ! you need to find out why your blm is so high first

you have air getting in somewhere or low fuelpressure or restricted fuel flow , something is causing the o2 sensor to send a low (under 450mv signal) to the computer which is read as a lean condition (more air is in the engine than it was told came past the MAF or less fuel is being delivered than it telling to go in and as a result its dropping lots o fuel in to correct .
a bad O2 (reading lean) would also cause this
cracked manifold ,
leaking hose from maf to turbo inlet
leaking vacuum lines
or bad PCV
bad MAF (or misadjusted settings on translator)
blocked injectors
low fuel pressure (blocked filter or line or bad pump)
incorrect chip for injector

you do have an adjustable regulator and set fuel pressure to 43 didnt you

and there are 16 cells of BLM values and depending on wether your seeing it at idle (cell 0) or at the last cell (cell 15) or how it is inbetween will help determine what to fix directscan will allow you to veiw all the cells (except the three that eric uses 12,13,and 14 to program the chip)
do some reading
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/faq/BLMINT.html




DirectScan is nice but you can tune just fine with a scanmaster , i run both , even if you have DS you still should have a scanmaster

 

[Blazer406]

no you dont need to make runs and look at your O2s ! you need to find out why your blm is so high first

I was referring to a WOT blast. As I understood it....the BLM values were a "long term fuel trim" from the ECM. I never said they were unimportant.... just most people don't tune a car at the track using BLM's. Mine jump around quite a bit if I am watching it based on me gassing it or letting off. If I was tuning it cruising on a Sunday drive....BLM's would definately play a role in my tuning decisions.

 

[AM86]

Thanks for all the help here... I swaped MAF with a new one and still had the same prob... when i'm driving the car BLM's drop to 125-130 right when I get to a stop they jump back to 150. I'm running a big mouth for the cold air intake. checked all the clamps today and they were all tight... i have noticed the car smoking at first start up looked into it and found that oil is dripping from my driver side valve cover breather not just from the base but from the filter part also. had a very clean engine thats now looking pretty dirty lol this breather is about 3 weeks old from Kirbans

 

[Bad AZ GN]

What is the rest of your fuel delivery system? fuel pump, pressure?

 

[AM86]

I have a Walbro 340 hot wired. I turned the fuel presure up to about 45psi line off still getting up to 150 when the car comes to a idle... i watched it on the expressway tonight and at about 75mph the blm's were going from 128-136 then when I got off at my exit right back to 150 when I come to a stop...

 

[AM86]

just some more info when I turn the key to the on position the BLM read 128 when the cars not running

 

[salvageV6]

Do you lock the converter in 3rd gear?

At 20psi. your mph is good for what I assume is pump gas and alky.

You should hit 11's at around 24psi. boost with a good 60ft.

I have high blm's with my Bosch 42's in my GN and a TT alky. chip 2-3 years old and run 11.90 at 114 at 24psi. boost with the PTE51.

3850lb. race weight stocker.

Just my .02.

 

[Bad AZ GN]

you have air getting in somewhere or low fuelpressure or restricted fuel flow , something is causing the o2 sensor to send a low (under 450mv signal) to the computer which is read as a lean condition (more air is in the engine than it was told came past the MAF or less fuel is being delivered than it telling to go in and as a result its dropping lots o fuel in to correct .
a bad O2 (reading lean) would also cause this
cracked manifold ,
leaking hose from maf to turbo inlet
leaking vacuum lines
or bad PCV
bad MAF (or misadjusted settings on translator)
blocked injectors
low fuel pressure (blocked filter or line or bad pump)
incorrect chip for injector

Check O2 sensor and do you have knock detector or see knock(detonation) when it goes
to 150 on BLM. What octane gas(our high quality AZ 91 premium or race gas)?

 

[pacecarta]

did you go to the gntttype blm facts page and read it ?

there are 16 cells , your blms are is not jumping around, you are reading different cells values which are stored to help the car run closer to the components of your specific motor basd on a chip which is burned for close to what it should be

the 150 at idle or first cell says you have issues as i said above.

the 128 you are seeing with key in on position has nothing to do with how the car is running , with erics chips it should be your wot fueling cell value for programed value , you can change the programing in the chip and view with a scanmaster . the 128 you see means your fuel is at the base setting as he sent it to you , this feature allows you to reveiw and check your changes before you go to race to be sure they havent been reset , read the programing instructions that came with the chip
if you lost them here they are . http://www.turbotweak.com/instruct.htm.
changing the programming setting wont fix your BLM at idle since they only take effect at WOT

do a search for high BLM for a thread by RAZOR .
once you get your blm back around 128 at idle you should find your spool and overall performance pickup .

and once thats fixed i run 27* timing for the 1-2 timing , and 3rd i can usually bring up to around 23* but youll need a good knock detector like directscan and an audible or led to start playing with thrid gear timing and alky .

 

[AM86]

Check O2 sensor and do you have knock detector or see knock(detonation) when it goes
to 150 on BLM. What octane gas(our high quality AZ 91 premium or race gas)?

I will check the o2 today. I have a scanmaster that I use to see knock I have been running a mix of our good old AZ 91 and about 5 gallons of 109 I would say pretty close to half and half. I'm not getting any knock when the car reaches 150BLM cuse its only happing when I come to a stop with no load on the engine.

 

[AM86]

did you go to the gntttype blm facts page and read it ?

there are 16 cells , your blms are is not jumping around, you are reading different cells values which are stored to help the car run closer to the components of your specific motor basd on a chip which is burned for close to what it should be

the 150 at idle or first cell says you have issues as i said above.

the 128 you are seeing with key in on position has nothing to do with how the car is running , with erics chips it should be your wot fueling cell value for programed value , you can change the programing in the chip and view with a scanmaster . the 128 you see means your fuel is at the base setting as he sent it to you , this feature allows you to reveiw and check your changes before you go to race to be sure they havent been reset , read the programing instructions that came with the chip
if you lost them here they are . http://www.turbotweak.com/instruct.htm.
changing the programming setting wont fix your BLM at idle since they only take effect at WOT

do a search for high BLM for a thread by RAZOR .
once you get your blm back around 128 at idle you should find your spool and overall performance pickup .

and once thats fixed i run 27* timing for the 1-2 timing , and 3rd i can usually bring up to around 23* but youll need a good knock detector like directscan and an audible or led to start playing with thrid gear timing and alky .

Thanks alot for the info. I have read the gnttype page thanks alot I have a much better understanding of what BLM is now on to finding the cause. due to it being in cell 0 does this give any insight to which of the causes is more or less likely my prob? I had the chip burned for my inj and car less then 6 mo ago. swapped MAF with a known good one,raised fuel presure to about 45psi line off. still a few things on the list to check lol

 

[AM86]

Stopped by Nicks today and picked up a new denzo o2 going to put that in today and check anuther thing off the check list lol. just want to say thanks again to all. People like me would be pretty screwed if it was not for guys like you willing to share so much with the newbies

 

[TT/Ameasap]

High BLM

Fuel can wash out the cylinder walls and make oil gassy....... Change your oil often with a high BLM problem or your bearings will pay!

HTH
Bo

 

[AM86]

Thank you very much did not think of that. will add that to the list of to do's tonight lol...

 

[Blazer406]

Stopped by Nicks today and picked up a new denzo o2 going to put that in today and check anuther thing off the check list lol. just want to say thanks again to all. People like me would be pretty screwed if it was not for guys like you willing to share so much with the newbies

IMHO... the best way to check if an O2 is working is to monitor the O2 cross counts while idling in closed loop.... the cross counts should count up to 255 and start over every 30 seconds or so.... if they don't ever increase..... O2 is probably no good.

 

[pacecarta]

blazer406 wrote
IMHO... the best way to check if an O2 is working is to monitor the O2 cross counts while idling in closed loop....



never going to happen ...he has erics chip

with erics chips you will find the o2 cross counts (CC) seem to stand still because there is almost no crossing from rich to lean due to his open loop idle , dont use idle CC as a means of determining good O2 sensor from bad with a TT chip .
to check o2 activity you'll have to watch the o2 cross counts as you drive around .