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I have used a dremel bit to cut grooves in the alum calipers. Carefully done it only took a few minutes a hole to cut the grooves to make stock orings fit. Dremel 3/8'' Disk Bit Hss | Western Tool Supply

Problem is the center of the pivot of the outer tierod would need to be around the center of the spindle arm. Being it would be difficult to raise the outer tierod, lowering the inner is not difficult and it does correct bumpsteer.

The olds BFGs were fine when new even in a cant see out the front windshield down pour at hyway speeds. My mt radials have plenty of groove depth but are scary on wet roads. I had done 1 360 at speed and a severly dipped road.:eek:

I would suggest checking out the Hellwing bar. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/brakes-suspensions-tires-wheels/336206-rear-sway-bar-3.html

Truck 12bolt no. The truck is a leaf spring axle vs car 4 link. The a-body 12bolt with swap with some mods and swap control arms. Turbo Buicks and Olds 442s came with 8.5's which are a sturdy axle to begin with.

Nothing. The tan wire it grounded by the combo/prop switch to complete the brake light circuit. Leave it hang or clip the wire at the firewall.

Imo rtv would be seal it up with less mess.

I gave my calipers to a local machinst to cut the grooves and he said he couldnt. Wtf, how hard can it be? I used a hand drill and dremel bit #199 to cut the grooves. Wasnt difficult at all.

Such things like brakes and exhaust changes all the time on my car.:D I have stockers on the car now. I had the sierras on my car several yrs ago but one leaked and I pinched and wrecked both brakes hoses between the steering stops. So I picked up a set of Howes and shorter hoses on ebay cheap...

11 1/8 center to center

Best mod I have done to tighten up my g-body was solid body mounts. The ride quality is ALL in the suspension.

I tried a 275/40 on a 8.5in rim and it didnt look right at all.:frown:

Mastercraft 275/40/17 ZHP. Dropped tire pressure to 27, edelbrock adjustable uppers, boxed lowers, couple hundred extra lbs balast in the trunk, 12.33 with a 1.69 60ft.

Wow! Those look awesome!! :cool:

2door there Charlie. ;)

virus alert here too.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/2320081-post15.html

The blazer bar will not have near the roll stiffness that a H&R/Spohn drag bars will have. Less effective as a drag bar but more ideal for a cruiser or autocrosser. The H&R bar is 1.25", Spohn dragbar 1.31", Spohn Touring bar .875" (22mm) and the blazer bar is around .905" (23mm).

Forsure corners much flatter and feels tighter too. 4wd? The rear bar is off a 2 door blazer and the bar mounts on top of the axle. I dont know if 2wd or 4wd makes any difference. 4 door blazers and trucks the rear bar mounts on the rear of the axle and I dont think the bar would fit a g-body...

I installed solid bushings in my car. Its a driver. I had to soften the suspension with cheaper shocks. REALLY firms up the car. My front swaybar is 34mm iroc.