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Well your comment is justified ! And no I did not follow the tree, will go back and start over instead of throwing ideas at the problem, thanks. It will take a little time since most of the words in the tree are somewhat strange to me, so it's going to be slow - some research to the meanings...

Well no go again. New pump, pressure with key on at rail, 35psi + Coil Pack checked out both bottom tabs and top plug terminals. New ignition control module Still cranks, nothing even with starting fluid sprayed in. So next is ???

And the screw ups continue, just received an AC Delco D1996, the D1996 is listed as correct however it's wrong just like the last one from Rock Auto. The connector keying is wrong. Anyone know what's going on here? The AC Delco box reads GM# 19260720 Did a search on GM 19260720 and found on...

Well it's now Monday - got major parts from Rock Auto on Saturday assembled however connector would not go into the ignition module, ICM Looked on the web site which showed compatible ICM however the new part was not that shown on the site, Rock Auto refused a return and no way to get to a real...

Thanks, however Advance Auto no longer has the Ignition Module (10/3/19) just called their National order line.

Thanks Michael, Used a friend's t-Type and discovered you must leave the key ON to maintain pressure in rail, so fuel appears not to be the problem. Spray some starting fluid in, not even a little pop so on to coil pack however both (had extra one) showed infinite resistance across...

Got the inside tank hose, installed pump, put gas in (8gal or so), crank, crank, crank NO Start, not even a sputter. Pressure at rail - 12 psi Is the oil pressure connected to pump power? Next step is ?

Back to repair, first problem - the hose inside the tank replacement that replaces the pulsator Have a source called Redhorse performance hose, however a pressure spec is not given (it's not listed as FI hose) Any one use it?

Got a fuel pressure gauge, turn key hear pump have 35psi Then crank engine, no start pressure siting at 25psi, after 5 min it's now at 12psi. Fuel Pump checks; can hear the pump for 3 sec push valve at end of fuel rail, only a small drip Lossen inlet of fuel filter, listen to pump for 3 sec...

First thanks for the ideas! So here is the problem again and what I've tried so far. car not used for month, started however needed to crank a lot more than normal. Drove 3 miles, stopped for coffee, car Off for 30 min. Started as normal, drove another 4 miles, shut Off for 2 hours. Started...

Pulled onto highway hit the gas, a little quite, car dead - rolled off It will not start just crank. Removed cap at end of fuel rail (screws on) pushed pin and only a little gas dripped out (assume it should be pressurized) When I turn key on hear something running for about 30 sec (fuel pump?)...

Well the alternator needed to be cleaned anyways, so off & in shop to check it out. As for the 12V stud, mine had a round plastic shield on it (assume stock) While I'm at it, new fan belt, a little cleaning, and since you mentioned the passenger side is a PITA will not be doing that gasket -...

Thanks guys. Time on the new gasket is not a big deal since once cover came off, I decided to paint it, then some bolts look old so fix that, then . . . Was told at breakfast today that the wire cover pins can be removed with a small torx however that does not seem to be the case, think fellow...

A baby question on changing the valve covers. Doing driver's side - the electrical wiring cover is in the way & in order to move it broke a number of the 1/8" plastic clips. What are some good methods to put back together again once valve cover is on? Cover is now Off, is it better to remove...

That's what it was! thank you all

Found lots of green water on top of intake (adapter plate) Removed heater control valve, it was good - replaced with solid hose for now. Did find a leak at one of the small outlets which use to lead to Throttle Body (fixed) Tried to blow off all green liquid from top however some still left so...

OK, the plugs on drivers side all look great, Pass side unable to see with started in however The area looks fairly clean so off to heads - unable to see any signs of leaks along either head on back side. It looks like it coming from both val cover (of course it isn't) Was about to ask about...

Will try that later today I hope, thanks. Naturally while the engine is out (if I go that way) I can really get myself in trouble.

Yes that's what I think (freeze plug) Seems that's the only logical place its coming from? Agree its a PITA - that's why I've been avoiding it

For the past 6 years there was a small water leak from the rear of engine. Believed it was from one of those small plugs behind the transmission, so a little bottle of Bar (or similar) fixed that until now. It got bigger and need to fix. Plan to pull the transmission in hopes I can get at...