Thanks, kinda thought soTypically unscrewing it will reduce the preload on the spring, which makes it bypass sooner, and lower the boost setting. Screwing it in will increase the spring pre-load, raise the pressure where it opens, and increase boost.
How much you get per turn of the dial is completely dependent on your car's particular setup. Test carefully. Move it in smalls steps until you know how it behaves.
KY is correct. Usually, one turn is 1# and 1 right turn is up (from 21 to 22), hence 1 left turn is down. Just watch your logging software as mechanical parts are off a bit usually.Thanks, kinda thought so
My bad, I thought you had the factory spring. Didn't notice the photo. The dial types usually have click points and I am unsure how much each click represents on those. Good luck.KY is correct. Usually, one turn is 1# and 1 right turn is up (from 21 to 22), hence 1 left turn is down. Just watch your logging software as mechanical parts are off a bit usually.
I think it is a glorified aquarium valve. Must turned it a pinch to find out...carefully. Thanks!It might be the glorified aquarium valve.
If it’s tee’d into the stock boost solenoid or tee’d into a hose running from the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator, opening the valve will bleed boost to atmosphere.
With it closed, the wastegate actuator opens at 15 psi boost so that’s what the engine sees.
When you open the valve to let 5 psi boost bleed to atmosphere, the wastegate actuator still opens at 15 psi boost.
The engine sees the 15 psi boost from the actuator plus the 5 psi boost going to atmosphere for a grand total of 20 psi boost.
If you could post some photos of how it’s plumbed, that should help determine what type of boost controller you have.
Exactly!Had one of those on my car when I first bought it years ago. I would just make 1/2 turn adjustments until I got the boost where I wanted it.
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