..............Car is showing KR activity (blips) during normal driving, when releasing the throttle, etc. It also has casper knock gauge and audible installed.
Valve lash was initially set and then re-checked after de-green, not by myself so I do not have any numbers. Oil is 20W50 VR1.Have you tried to adjust the lash on the valves? if so, what settings are you using? Lastly, what kind of oil are you using in the motor?
did you mean knock gauge or boost gauge?Years ago I had that issue on a GN, when I disconnected the boost gauge and alarm, false KR went away?
Where do you set the preload on the 885 bison?Been running with them for over 10 years various engines
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Close to zeroWhere do you set the preload on the 885 bison?
My opinion on knock sensors & someone feel free to correct me if wrong . Knock sensors work the best with stock or mildly built engines. Once you go over a certain thresh hold like roller cams forged racing pistons with looser crank clearances etc. now you have a lot of internal noise & harmonics that can aggravate a knock sensor basically tuned to stock frequencies. In this case and if you have a known safe tune correct timing and A/F I'm going to stick my neck out by saying disregard what would be considered false knock or continue to drive ones self nuts .
At close to Zero lash do you have any issues with knock sensor going off ?? Do you run the knock sensor on your HP builds?Close to zero
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..............How does the false knock effect the EMC and how it delivers fuel and spark and does it even effect performance?...........D
It is important to determine if the car has false knock or is it real?
Knock false or real will affect performance.
I have replaced a few head gaskets for free over the years checking to see if it is false knock or real, so my first step is to add some race gas to the tank to determine if there is a fuel delivery or octane issue?