Billet Tensioner

Do you want final payment after your done testing? Or do you need it now?
 
87GNSteve said:
I am advocating a 15mm head for that pulley bolt in SS so the entire billet unit remove/install will only require 1 size socket.

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Your on the right track, but I am talking about the flat head bolt that is holding the tensioner together, not the pulley bolt. They can replace that bolt when they are assembling the unit, and it will make a huge difference in appearance. It will then be able to be polished, or left alone...but will not rust.
 
coach said:
Add .25c to each unit and put a stainless flathead screw on the front. Polished, or not....that bolt is gonna rust and on a $500 part, thats a big no-no. For .75c...you could put a chrome one on.
Just my opinion, but i'm kicking around grabbing one of these and that's the first thing I noticed.
Click to expand...

X2

The pulley and tensioner bolt should be stainless.

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coach said:
Your on the right track, but I am talking about the flat head bolt that is holding the tensioner together, not the pulley bolt. They can replace that bolt when they are assembling the unit, and it will make a huge difference in appearance. It will then be able to be polished, or left alone...but will not rust.
Click to expand...
I agree I will suggest it.
 
chopped39 said:
Screw it. I'm in. Boy is she pissed. I will have her send payment in the morning
Click to expand...

Join the club.... did the same thing. Two payments did help as she prob believes the total was half of what it really was :)

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UPDATE 6/23/14
Just had a phone conversation with the manufacturer he received the prototype back and I made all the suggestions which were minimal.
He was concerned about the strength of stainless steel hardware but will look into a cost effective high grade SS replacement. The pulley bolt will stay w/ a 13 mm head just because it would increase the thread from 8 mm x 1.25 to 10 mm x 1.50 and take out more metal from the pulley mount hole. My overall instruction was err on the side of strength than looks.
The aluminum stock was delivered and they will be made in one complete batch he is beginning production today on the bases. All told about 12 processes for a single tensioner.
Looking good so far.
 
87GNSteve said:
UPDATE 6/23/14
Just had a phone conversation with the manufacturer he received the prototype back and I made all the suggestions which were minimal.
He was concerned about the strength of stainless steel hardware but will look into a cost effective high grade SS replacement. The pulley bolt will stay w/ a 13 mm head just because it would increase the thread from 8 mm x 1.25 to 10 mm x 1.50 and take out more metal from the pulley mount hole. My overall instruction was err on the side of strength than looks.
The aluminum stock was delivered and they will be made in one complete batch he is beginning production today on the bases. All told about 12 processes for a single tensioner.
Looking good so far.
Click to expand...
Are there any more spots available?
 
87GNSteve said:
UPDATE 6/23/14
Just had a phone conversation with the manufacturer he received the prototype back and I made all the suggestions which were minimal.
He was concerned about the strength of stainless steel hardware but will look into a cost effective high grade SS replacement. The pulley bolt will stay w/ a 13 mm head just because it would increase the thread from 8 mm x 1.25 to 10 mm x 1.50 and take out more metal from the pulley mount hole. My overall instruction was err on the side of strength than looks.
The aluminum stock was delivered and they will be made in one complete batch he is beginning production today on the bases. All told about 12 processes for a single tensioner.
Looking good so far.
Click to expand...
The strength of stainless vs steel wont matter in these applications. If the bolts could shear, I'd say you need chrome steel, but these are just holding the assembly together. Unless there is something I am not seeing...
The stock unit is held together by a metal plate with "peened" over aluminum...or pot metal at best. If they have lasted 25+ years...high quality stainless fasteners would do as good, or a better job. If you can post pics of the prototype dis-assembled...I could give you a better answer.
As for the bolt that holds the pulley on...it should be either 10-12mm thread already. I had 2 buttonhead screws chromed for my tensioner because the size needed was not available from Gardner-Westcott. I'll double check what they were.
 
87GNSteve said:
The remedy for this:
View attachment 220908
Click to expand...
This is why I'm getting one. Every time i work on the engine and see the stock 27 year old cast piece with over 200,000 miles on it I cringe. I make several 1500+ mile trips a year and it's one of the few things I can think of that would turn the car into a paperweight. I can tell the spring has weakened over the years as well.
 
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