Fuel Pump?

X

xtremexnyc

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 29, 2001
Hello All,

Went to start my TR after a couple of weeks sitting. Turned the key fuel pump primed and car started for about 5 secs and then shut off. Tried to start it again and all it did was crank. Notice that when I tried to restart the car and the fuel pump did not prime. Check the hood mount fuel gauge and no fuel. Also have a fuel gauge on the rail and no fuel. Checked the 30 amp fuse to the Hotwire kit and it is good, checked the connectors to the Hotwire kit at the tank and all looked good. Go and turn the key and I hear a click which I assume it is the hot wire relay by the tank that is functioning. Any other fuses to check? I have a1/4 tank of gas so it says on the fuel gauge. But it may not be accurate. Will get a container of gas later to see if that is it. Any help and suggestions is appreciated.

Thank you
 
Throw some gas in it, then check for voltage at the pump harness with a test light/volt meter. What kind of pump and how old it it ?
 
Pump is about a year old and it is a Walboro 340. Will pick up some gas later and check the wires with a multimeter. Can you tell me which of the three wires by the pump harness I should check? It is an 86 which I forgot to add. Thank you for your suggestion.
 
I knew you were going to ask me that .... three wires lead to the pump.. ground, 12v and one for the fuel level. Ground the meter to the frame and hit all three, make sure you hit the wires coming off the tank, after the relay and connectors... one should have voltage.. can't remember the color.. hopefully someone else can chime in with that.
 
It's the two wire that aren't purple. I wouldn't add any gas as that will just make the tank heavier when you have to drop it.
 
Added a gallon of fuel just to test. No fuel pressure. Tested wires coming from the tank and I believe the red wire had voltage. Looks like it's leading to a bad pump. Can I try and run the pump with a 12 volt battery just to see if it runs? If I need to get a new pump which do you guys recommend? Should I get the Racetronix pump?

Thx
 
This seems like the proper place to show how some companies value quality and customer service. :)

Here is an extract of a reply from DW to one of my customers request about his pump as he requested it to be checked for proper operation after a dyno session:

"We were able to test the pump, and we did verify that the check valve was not operating as it should and on those grounds we will be replacing the pump with a new one.
This fault should not affect how the pump flows when it is powered, so the drop off you described could be due to a leak outside of the pump and its immediate connection to the fuel pump assembly or your fuel demands are beyond what the pump can support.

We have revised the pump since your purchase, so the new pump should flow a little more.

We will get it shipped out to you on Monday.

Kind Regards
-- Chris Mills
Support & New Products, DeatschWerks Fuel Systems"​
 
Nick is also a great supplier of DW pumps... I put GNS out of habit since they were the first ones I noticed to sell them. Both will treat you well.
 
you need to drop the tank and check the connections. There's a chance your pump is fine but the plug in the inside is corroded. Or the steel tube that goes in the tank and supplies ground to the pump has a cold soldier joint.

It's time to drop the tank and do an exploritory. And yes you can power the pump with a 12V battery when you get it out. Cordless drill batterys work pretty well if you have a 12V or 14.4V (18V is as high as I would go)
 
xtremexnyc said:
Added a gallon of fuel just to test. No fuel pressure. Tested wires coming from the tank and I believe the red wire had voltage. Looks like it's leading to a bad pump. Can I try and run the pump with a 12 volt battery just to see if it runs? If I need to get a new pump which do you guys recommend? Should I get the Racetronix pump?

Thx
Click to expand...

You can quickly apply power to the pump to see if it runs. Make sure you do this in a well-ventilated area to avoid fumes and the possibility of fire.

If you are on your second Walbro pump perhaps, it is time to examine the cause before investing in a new pump. Consider sending your pump out to have it tested and if required cut open. To a trained eye, this will reveal the cause of failure and the corrective action. Too much blame has been placed on Walbro pumps as of late. Most of the time pump failure can be attributed its 25 y/o operating environment and supportive hardware.

We have sold 100's of our new SS Buick senders with Walbro GSS294M 255LPH pumps. No warranty claims to date. An alternative is our new RXP340M 340LPH pumps. These are the same as DW, Aeromotive and AEM pumps. We will be offering this pump pre-installed in our new SS sender that features upgraded electrical components and flow capacity in the next week or two.
 
earlbrown said:
you need to drop the tank and check the connections. There's a chance your pump is fine but the plug in the inside is corroded. Or the steel tube that goes in the tank and supplies ground to the pump has a cold soldier joint.

It's time to drop the tank and do an exploritory. And yes you can power the pump with a 12V battery when you get it out. Cordless drill batterys work pretty well if you have a 12V or 14.4V (18V is as high as I would go)
Click to expand...

Good advise! If you have an original sender and it is rusty with discolored terminals it is time for a replacement.
 
williamsGN said:
Throw some gas in it, then check for voltage at the pump harness with a test light/volt meter. What kind of pump and how old it it ?
Click to expand...
I am having the same issue after going to get my car out of winter storage. My fuel gauge shows real low so I added 2 gal of gas. Will the pump run with min amount of gas?
Thanks
 
Crank it with someone listening for the pump.. 2 gals should do it, but even if you were empty the pump would try and prime itself.
 
With a ohm meter check the resistance between the grey and black wires that go up to the pump. The resistance should be about 1 to 3 ohms , this is the resistance of the motor. If it's higher you more than likely have a bad connection at the bulk head connector, if it's open ,well you have to drop the tank and check the wiring. Don't buy a pump until you check those connections , and if they are bad Racetronix has the bulk head connector harness. I had that connection go bad on my car & truck. Good Luck... Sam
 
Hello All,

Pump was bad. I went ahead and purchased a pump and ss sending unit from Racetronix. Install went smooth, as soon as I hooked everything up, turned the key and it was a sight to see the fuel pressure gauges go up, check for leaks, all good, final install of the tank and fired it up. Thanks Racetronix your sending unit/pump was a direct drop in.

Thx
 
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