Battery Drain

[nickygn23]

My car is draining the battery. Don't know why. It just started happening. I trickle charge it full. A few days later....Dead. The battery is fair recent. Any ideas? Could it be a bad ground?
Thanks

 

[azbob]

http://www.davidellisrealestate.com/html/battery_drain.HTM
this may help

 

[williamsGN]

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090218105642AAVis0l

 

[Rich Gio]

Two easy things to check before you go crazy with the multimeter.
1) Does your car still have the original fan delay relay installed? If so, pull it out and see if you still have the discharge. They get wet and short out inside.
2) Check your cigarette lighter. Mine had a VERY slight short due to corrosion in the socket. I'm amazed it wasn't blowing the fuse.

Keep isolating circuits until you find it!

 

[GNICETRY]

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090218105642AAVis0l

That is how I found my draw.

 

[~JM~]

If your car sits for long periods without being started, you should probably install a battery isolation switch on your negative post.

~JM~

 

[nickygn23]

Thanks guys. I do have the factory fan delay relay. I'm going to check that first then the lighter. Weird that it just started happening.By the way who sells those isolation switchs?

 

[standupjskiguy]

Forget the switch, even disconnected the battery will drain over time. I use a little charger that is sold by Harbor Freight.
It's about $7 and keeps the battery topped off without drying out the water. I've been using them for several years with no problem.
I use it on my GN, Bike, and my 68 Camaro.

 

[GNICETRY]

I am very familiar with battery drain. Pull the fan delay relay out. Throw in garbage. First check the battery with a multimeter, should have about 12.4V. Do you have Scanmaster, if so should be about 12.7-14.0 bouncing (car running). Remember the Scanmaster reads about .5V lower than at the alternator. If you don't have a Scanmaster you could hook up the multimeter to the battery. Those 2 tests can come back positive and you could still have a bad battery though. Assuming they came back good, do as the link provides with the negative cable. Look for your draw and then start pulling fuses. My cigarette lighter was corroded as well as a fusible link conection. 3 days is way too soon for the car to go dead.
Other possible issues would be the little pins near the door hinges, they could not close the circuit properly and the glove box/trunk/hood lights.

 

[GNVenom]

More reading:
http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/delay-relay.pdf\

 

[jarredsoon]

This is great info!!

 

[nickygn23]

You guys really know your stuff. Thanks for all the great info. I'll do the checking later..... I'm taking my wife and son for a ride.

 

[GNICETRY]

You guys really know your stuff. Thanks for all the great info. I'll do the checking later..... I'm taking my wife and son for a ride.

The more you drive an old Buick the more you learn Please post back with the results. It is very satisfying to get a problem fixed.

 

[The Darkside]

I had that issue in the past & it was because my volt light bulb was loose & wasn't coming on when I turned the key to the on postion. .............So, check to be sure your volt light is coming on when you turn your ignition key to the on position...If it doesn't, then check the bulb to see if it's burned out or just not making a good connection. It needs to come on to complete the circuit otherwise it will drain your battery.

 

[GNVenom]

Speaking of VOLTS light:
http://www.installationinstructions.com/FYI/alternator_charging_tech.pdf