First "real" race...any advice?

1. put some race gas in your car 2.turn off your stereo 3. if you don't have slicks or drag radials steer around the water burn out area, as heated street tires make for horrible traction 4.slowly creep up to the starting lane while keeping an eye on the yellow bulbs up on top of the starting tree, as you get real close your gonna light the 1st bulb which is the pre stage bulb, now very, very slowly creep a little more and the moment you light the second bulb which is the staged light stop 5. make sure you have the tranny in 1st gear, you don't want to race the car in 3rd or drive as it will take more time for the engine to get going, now that your in 1st gear 6. mash the brake pedal down like you were kicking your mother in law off a cliff with your left foot and with your right foot ease into the accelerator pedal slightly building a small amount of boost 7. take a look at your opponents side of the tree if he or she has lit both staging bulbs give it a little more gas to build a little more boost because the race is about to get underway real soon, don't slam the gas pedal all the way down or you will be doing a smokey burn out and lose the race 8. now only focus on the yellow light above the green light, the second it lights up let go of your brake pedal while at the same time slamming the gas pedal down, as you head down the track don't forget to shift in to 2nd and third, i hope this helps you good luck

#5. ???!?! Are you serious?? I think YOU need to get your basics together, and quit giving crappy advise to a novice.

Putting the trans in "D" does NOT mean it takes off in 3rd gear, slowing down acceleration. You better go do some studying up on how an automatic transmission operates.

#1. ???!! Again, WTF are you talking about? She has a TT 93 street chip. The chip is set for low timing & 16-17 PSI. Race gas will do nothing... I repeat... nothing!, for the performance of the car. All race gas will do with her current setup is drain more money out of her purse, and ruin the o2 sensor.

Mrs. FastNasty..... put the trans in "D" and leave it there! Don't use Overdrive. The car will run faster in Drive. A chip setup to lock the converter in Drive is worth 2/10ths, but it's hard on the trans.

Also, as others have said. Turn the boost up to 16-17 PSI. TT 93 chips are meant to run at that boost level. If your nervous about it, just keep a close eye on the Scanmaster (you do have one, right?) for any knock. If it does, let off the throttle.
 
My phone will not let me reply to your pm.

Anyways, bring the car to my track and I will get it running and teach you how to drive it. That way the neon guy will not know what it runs. Sound like a plan?
 
My phone will not let me reply to your pm.

Anyways, bring the car to my track and I will get it running and teach you how to drive it. That way the neon guy will not know what it runs. Sound like a plan?

DING - DING - DING!! There is your winner!! Take this offer to get personal instruction from a great driver , it will score you way more ET than you you can imagine. Mike:cool:
 
My phone will not let me reply to your pm.

Anyways, bring the car to my track and I will get it running and teach you how to drive it. That way the neon guy will not know what it runs. Sound like a plan?



Seat time............:wink: Nutin better.
 
DING - DING - DING!! There is your winner!! Take this offer to get personal instruction from a great driver , it will score you way more ET than you you can imagine. Mike:cool:

I don't know about being great driver.....but thanks man! I figure I live an hour away and can make sure she doesn't hurt herself or the car. My plan is to get a 12 second pass in and turn it up a little more each time. I know the people at both local tracks enough so she can make solo passes.
 
My phone will not let me reply to your pm.

Anyways, bring the car to my track and I will get it running and teach you how to drive it. That way the neon guy will not know what it runs. Sound like a plan?

Sounds super to me! I'll pay you with salsa! :biggrin: Which is your local track? I would have the husband teach me...but he takes the fun out of it completely...so mean.

I'm going to get a slap on the hand for this...but I admit...I don't have a scan tool yet. The main reason is because well...if I did have one, I wouldn't have any clue what the stuff meant anyway...sooooooo, I procrastinated...will have one ready to go for the track though. :redface:
 
GET A SCAN TOOL!!!!!

Really no turbo Buick should be without one.

P.S. it's not hard to learn how to read one.
 
with your mods , you should win. I would take up Kevin's advice and let him show you how to launch the car, turning the boost up a bit might help also.
you definetly don't want to lose the race at the line, ( you want to grip, not slip)

good luck, and post that video! :cool:
 
Get a friggin' scanmaster geez. :mad:

It's easy to learn to use, Kevin should be able to help you with that too. :)

Or skip the racing until someone tunes it properly which will save you money in the long run.
 
Get a friggin' scanmaster geez. :mad:

It's easy to learn to use, Kevin should be able to help you with that too. :)

Or skip the racing until someone tunes it properly which will save you money in the long run.


I knew that hand smack was coming. :eek: I'm going to have one...before I meet up with Kevin...then I can learn what in the world all that stuff means. Car was tuned beautifully when it was given back to me...assume it wouldn't be far from it now...haven't messed with anything. :tongue:
 
You dropped coin on a new engine and you have NO Scanmaster?:rolleyes:
Most of the funtions are pretty self explainatory like rpm, temp and mph. The ones you need to see are O2 milivolts and knock. When you start the car they are the default setting. At WOT you want 0 knock and O2s in the high 700s to 820s.
Kevin can help you with any more tuning if he races it for you.
 
#5. ???!?! Are you serious?? I think YOU need to get your basics together, and quit giving crappy advise to a novice.

Putting the trans in "D" does NOT mean it takes off in 3rd gear, slowing down acceleration. You better go do some studying up on how an automatic transmission operates.

#1. ???!! Again, WTF are you talking about? She has a TT 93 street chip. The chip is set for low timing & 16-17 PSI. Race gas will do nothing... I repeat... nothing!, for the performance of the car. All race gas will do with her current setup is drain more money out of her purse, and ruin the o2 sensor.

Mrs. FastNasty..... put the trans in "D" and leave it there! Don't use Overdrive. The car will run faster in Drive. A chip setup to lock the converter in Drive is worth 2/10ths, but it's hard on the trans.

Also, as others have said. Turn the boost up to 16-17 PSI. TT 93 chips are meant to run at that boost level. If your nervous about it, just keep a close eye on the Scanmaster (you do have one, right?) for any knock. If it does, let off the throttle.

1st let me apologize to the lady on some of my ill laden advice, now i gave her advice about putting in race gas judging by her description of her long block which consists of some pretty heavy duty internals which can live on high boost with race gas, i never specified what octane level as i'm not too familiar with chips as my g/n was built with a fast system, now about shifting autos, if you get two identical stock cars with automatics & race them one in drive the other manually shifted, i bet top dollar the manually shifted one will edge out the other,go to an nhra event and ask the stock eliminator guys if they take off in drive or if they manually shift their tranny! now as for you who the hell do you think you are coming off typing wtf, crappy advice, i better this and that, you need to learn some manners boy! i'm old school i'm not an internet tough guy, i'm a firm believer if you talk sh!t then you better be able to back it up, i've got more then enough juice to meet you some where and teach you some manners since mommy & daddy didn't do a good enough job, i'm not going to sit here and hype myself up as their are people who talk and people who do- this is one damn thing i don't like about the internet, it give idiots big steel balls and the ability to talk sh!t, choose your words very wisely on your response as i will travel to meet you and i will hold you to every word.
 
^ yawn, I'm scared now.:( Thanks alot Mr.Badman

Maybe an admin needs to ban your sorry rear from here for making public threats?

Someone calls you on your bunk, and you come unglued threatening them.
 
A stock SRT4 runs 14.1. I have a stage 3 with some other mods and run slicks. I really don't beat the hell out of the car but I've run a 12.5 with it. I usually run low 13s or high 12s. The car should probably run low 12s or high 11s. We also have have a 1987 GN so I really hope you take the SRT4. Good luck.
 
Guy I work with has a SRT-4. He says it traps 117mph, but spins bad and et's 14's...Does this sound impossible? Even spinning should'nt you run at least mid 12's with that mph? Anyway he has all the 5hit,bigger turbo, big intercooler, 3" DP, Alcy inj., yada yada. I rode in the car and his mph didn't feel "there" to me. Crank the Boost and load her up with 110!!!
 
^ yawn, I'm scared now.:( Thanks alot Mr.Badman

Maybe an admin needs to ban your sorry rear from here for making public threats?

Someone calls you on your bunk, and you come unglued threatening them.

I'm not hiding the fact that i threatened you on a public forum moron! i never knew you even existed until you came out spewing your stupidities at me and demeaning me, had the shoe been on the other foot i would have pointed out your errors with out the snide remarks but i guess that's just the type of sad poor excuse of a human being you are, i have nothing to hide idiot, that's why i'm back here putting it on the table for every one to see, your a pathetic excuse of a man talking your crap and hiding behind a key board with no dignity or honor, i'm easy going and will go out of my way to make a friend, but if your gonna spit in my bowl of cereal then hell lets put on our boots and dance, don't pm me talking your crap and then come on here trying to act all dignified you loser, you started this with your insults, you = talk I = do
 
trans and convertor

This car has a built 200R4 with a 3000 stall Precision Industries multi disc L/U convertor programed for forced L/U @ 110 MPH. Which should be around 5600-5700 in third gear. Put the car in D, not OD and leave it there all through the run (the car should shift around 5800 so let it do it's thing--that's why they are called automatics)--once you clear the finish line, bump it up to OD and apply brakes. If you forget to shift to OD, that's ok--only difference is you will have engine braking in D--I prefer to use my brakes to stop --not the eng. You definately need to get some experience before putting OUR work on the line. Best of luck.
 
$uckin6, I'm PM'd you because I have respect for this tight knit community & they don't need to see or read certain things. Although, my PM to you didn't state anything any different than what I'm about to say here.

You have to rant & rave and carry on over someone shooting down your incorrect advise. You sure are quick to call names, just like a child on the playground.

I wasn't talking crap, I was correcting YOUR crappy advice to a novice looking for some help. There is a difference.

So far the best advise has been from KevinB, who is offering to teach her in person, starting off with the basics & then teaching her more from there. That's a stand-up, true gentlemans offer right there. Unlike your yappping about how the NHRA guys do it... dump in race gas & slam gears on an autoloader.:rolleyes:

You gave incorrect info to someone & I busted you on it. Now, you have to come on here, in public, calling names & acting like a child.

Two posts in a row where you throw insults, call names, threaten, and act like a baby. You claim to be someone who hates the internet because of people who act just like you are acting. Ohhh, the irony.

Well, now people see your true colors $uckin6.
 
This car has a built 200R4 with a 3000 stall Precision Industries multi disc L/U convertor programed for forced L/U @ 110 MPH. Which should be around 5600-5700 in third gear. Put the car in D, not OD and leave it there all through the run (the car should shift around 5800 so let it do it's thing--that's why they are called automatics)--once you clear the finish line, bump it up to OD and apply brakes. If you forget to shift to OD, that's ok--only difference is you will have engine braking in D--I prefer to use my brakes to stop --not the eng. You definately need to get some experience before putting OUR work on the line. Best of luck.

Didn't know I should put it in OD to stop...good information, thanks Lee. Don't be modest...you did the work, I just stood in your garage and asked woman like questions (you know, the stupid kind)...lol...thanks again, you're the best!
 
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