How fast can one go with a Stock Crank rod and Girdilled 109 block

[thunderace31]

Ok I am thinking of doing another engine for my car.
Im looking for low 10's or maybe faster.

I was thinking .40 over forged pistons and stock crank maybe a H beam rod.

Girddel the 109 block and run a bigger cam and turbo.

Now am I pushing the limits or ok???

Also if I went to a longer rod 6.00 or 6.350 what needs to be done to the block and what pistons would I use??

where would the Displacment be if I use a longer rod and not a longer crank??

Am I way off base here or ok???

I dont have that much to do this engine build with ($5000 max)
And I need Ported Heads too

Budget building sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Kip]

FYI rod lenght does not affect displacement.
Hope that helps, Kip

 

[turbofabricator]

Buy a stroker kit from Full Throttle or one of the other listed vendors. Rod length has ZERO effect on displacement. Stroke and bore are the only way to change displacement. A girdled block and stock crank and rods will get you into the tens no problem. Roller cam vs. used flat tappet cams. :biggrin: Big turbo, good ported heads, big injectors, big fuel pump(s), 'puter programming or FAST system, right converter (and I'm talking torque converter, not cat. ) And a WELL built trans. Suspension, axles, wheels, slicks, roll bar, driveshaft loop, good U-joints, GREAT tune-up, boost controller, good fuel (C-16), big intercooler, 3" or bigger down pipe, free-flowing exhaust system. The list goes on and on. Budget racing can be done, but set your goals based on how much you can afford. If you have someone else do the fabricating/wrenching, then expect to spend WAY more han $10,000 on a low ten second car. If you do ALL the work, then expect to spend more than $10,000. It isn't cheap to run low tens. I think that most guys that run consistant low tens will tell you that they have more than $18,000+ in parts in their car. If not, then they got a screamin' deal on most of their stuff. Re-think your goals. Running mid 11's is REAL fun, and doable on your budget.

 

[thunderace31]

Buy a stroker kit from Full Throttle or one of the other listed vendors. Rod length has ZERO effect on displacement. Stroke and bore are the only way to change displacement. A girdled block and stock crank and rods will get you into the tens no problem. Roller cam vs. used flat tappet cams. :biggrin: Big turbo, good ported heads, big injectors, big fuel pump(s), 'puter programming or FAST system, right converter (and I'm talking torque converter, not cat. ) And a WELL built trans. Suspension, axles, wheels, slicks, roll bar, driveshaft loop, good U-joints, GREAT tune-up, boost controller, good fuel (C-16), big intercooler, 3" or bigger down pipe, free-flowing exhaust system. The list goes on and on. Budget racing can be done, but set your goals based on how much you can afford. If you have someone else do the fabricating/wrenching, then expect to spend WAY more han $10,000 on a low ten second car. If you do ALL the work, then expect to spend more than $10,000. It isn't cheap to run low tens. I think that most guys that run consistant low tens will tell you that they have more than $18,000+ in parts in their car. If not, then they got a screamin' deal on most of their stuff. Re-think your goals. Running mid 11's is REAL fun, and doable on your budget.

My Cars gone 11.04 at 121 with what I listed below I just need to go faster as there are way way to many 10.50-10.40 cars here in my area most are crapy Mustangs with spray
Stock block and heads
206/206 Cam and lifters
Roller timming Chain
63mm Throttle body
3.5" fass air meter
4" big Mouth Cold air with 9" K&N Filter in Drives Front
4" mass air pipe
60lb Inj.
te45a Turbo
3.5" Down Pipe with external waistgate
4" Single shot exaust!
200R4 trans with trans Brake
Art Carr 9" 3500 Non Lock up converter
Moser 30 spline Axles
Aburn Locker
Weld Pro Star wheels (Rear 15X8 Fronts are BRAND NEW 15x3.5" wide)
BRAND NEW 265/15 Front tires
Hoosier Quick time pro 28X11.5X15 rear tires
6 Point cage
5 Point Harness on drivers side (Also BRAND NEW!)
RJC Power Plate
Modded Upper Dog house on intake to flow more air
PTE Front mount intercooler
Alky Control Alky system
Power Loger Data logger system
AEM wide band 02
Trubo Tweek Chip
A/C removed and Mr Heater heat system installed (I do live in crappy Michigan lol)
HR parts and stuff anti Roll Bar
Double ajustable upper contol arms
Solid lower control arms
Lakewood 90/10's in front
Comp Engineering adj. shocks on rear (set at 50/50 now)

So with all that I have and wanting to go low 10's what would you guys do to get there with just $5000-$6000 to spend ??

 

[turbofabricator]

A good set of ported iron heads, a bigger turbo, and a 210ish hydralic roller cam and you should be able to get there. You'll have top add ALOT of alcohol to have enough fuel. Might need to step up to a modded ECM and 72 lb. injectors. Sorry, I didn't know the level of parts you already have.

 

[thunderace31]

A good set of ported iron heads, a bigger turbo, and a 210ish hydralic roller cam and you should be able to get there. You'll have top add ALOT of alcohol to have enough fuel. Might need to step up to a modded ECM and 72 lb. injectors. Sorry, I didn't know the level of parts you already have.

60lb Inj. and Razor Alky

Thanks

 

[Buds87GN]

Billet center caps stock rods,stock crank, GN1 heads and a conservative tune by Bill Adersons and i have gone 9.90 137mph.

 

[thunderace31]

Billet center caps stock rods,stock crank, GN1 heads and a conservative tune by Bill Adersons and i have gone 9.90 137mph.

whats considered a conservitive tune ??? How much PSI and with what turbo and other mods??

Sorry to be a pain I just dont want to build a gernade! lol

Thanks

 

[Buds87GN]

My turbo is a GTQ70 that is trashed due to a wire going thru the compressor. I am running 20 psi of boost, timing is 24deg. and 11.2..1 A/F fuel ratio. My car is 3550# and TSM legal with the exception of a 4" down pipe.

 

[thunderace31]

My turbo is a GTQ70 that is trashed due to a wire going thru the compressor. I am running 20 psi of boost, timing is 24deg. and 11.2..1 A/F fuel ratio. My car is 3550# and TSM legal with the exception of a 4" down pipe.

Cool! thanks for the info!

Where did you get the 4" DP ???
Everyone says it cant be done for long how long has the car been this way and how many pass's/Miles are on the motor??

 

[Buds87GN]

I bought a Tig Welder and made the down pipe myself, keeping the A/C was a challenge but I did get it to work.

My build is over a year old, the Speedo is broken so I am not sure how many miles are on the build. I drive the cars on weekends and made 2 passes better then 10.0 with the quickest being 9.90. I don't have a NHRA License so the track officials made me put her away.

I don't plan on running that fast too many times but then again we only built the car to run 10.50's

 

[thunderace31]

I bought a Tig Welder and made the down pipe myself, keeping the A/C was a challenge but I did get it to work.

My build is over a year old, the Speedo is broken so I am not sure how many miles are on the build. I drive the cars on weekends and made 2 passes better then 10.0 with the quickest being 9.90. I don't have a NHRA License so the track officials made me put her away.

I don't plan on running that fast too many times but then again we only built the car to run 10.50's

Too cool looks like my plan is on target then
Girdel the block re-use the stock crank and rods and use a good Fordged piston with good ported Heads, Bigger cam 210 or larger and a big fat 70 turbo
Im thinking of going .40 over boar as well. More displacment cant hurt.

THANKS AGAIN!

 

[ttypewhite]

I have steal caps, stock crank and rods. 8 years and still running. I ran 9's at 25psi and couldn't figure out why I could not raise the boost to 30psi. Turns out my header was cracked on the passenger side, with the crack being on the side facing the head. She looks real ugly, but the good thing is you can't see the bubble gum welds used to fix the leaks from looking at the motor.

 

[nordy racer]

I don't plan on running that fast too many times but then again we only built the car to run 10.50's

LOL sounds like you have a little bit of me in ya, Billy's 10.50's motors KICK A$$.. can't wait to see his 9.50 build

 

[thunderace31]

I have steal caps, stock crank and rods. 8 years and still running. I ran 9's at 25psi and couldn't figure out why I could not raise the boost to 30psi. Turns out my header was cracked on the passenger side, with the crack being on the side facing the head. She looks real ugly, but the good thing is you can't see the bubble gum welds used to fix the leaks from looking at the motor.

Ya I think I need to get headers to since mine have been welded once already

what turbo were or are you using???

Will stock race ported heads work???

Im on a supper tight budget here (Again it sucks but such is life when you own your own company)

I also dont want an on off type set up so what advice can be given on that front.
I the art carr "0" Converter 3400-3600 stall.

 

[ttypewhite]

I am using a 70GTQ turbo with a Billy Anderson picked ATI converter (T400). I got my Turbo, tranny and convertor from Billy. Give him a call, he will load the bullets in your gun. I have taken my stock ported irons to 10.20 before the change to aluminums. Stock heads have been deep into the 9's in TSM trim already. If this is something your looking at giving beats to often at the track, I would consider a DLS stock stroke kit. The cranks sell for pretty much the price of a std/std stock crank. Your on the right track Derek.

 

[thunderace31]

I am using a 70GTQ turbo with a Billy Anderson picked ATI converter (T400). I got my Turbo, tranny and convertor from Billy. Give him a call, he will load the bullets in your gun. I have taken my stock ported irons to 10.20 before the change to aluminums. Stock heads have been deep into the 9's in TSM trim already. If this is something your looking at giving beats to often at the track, I would consider a DLS stock stroke kit. The cranks sell for pretty much the price of a std/std stock crank. Your on the right track Derek.

Ya I dont know if my car will ever make it to the 9's but it would be fun to do it

I just want to go as fast as I can but hell thats just me
I thought low 11's High 10's would do it but dang i Was wrong!!!!!!!

 

[bison]

I wouldnt consider using stock rods this day in age when h-beam rods can be bought for a relatively low price and are much more durable than the stock ones. .

 

[thunderace31]

I wouldnt consider using stock rods this day in age when h-beam rods can be bought for a relatively low price and are much more durable than the stock ones. .

Ya I was thinking of going with the ones on cottons site they look good and there only $500 but thats also part of my problem $5000 to spend
It goes really really fast!

 

[bison]

Ya I was thinking of going with the ones on cottons site they look good and there only $500 but thats also part of my problem $5000 to spend
It goes really really fast!

Go for the rods even if you dont buy a stroker kit. I would buy the kit and sell the stock rotator for some extra $. A billet capped flat cammed shortblock should be very achievable and still have some more to spend on more hp parts. You should have enough to buy a used FAST system.