XFI, rough idle, no A/F, no TPS

Tried another cam sensor cap and the results were the same. Cam Sync numbers just moved everytime I hit the gas. I verified that the cam sensor was tight and it is definately tight.

As far as the coolant temp staying at 164, it does stay there most of the time and it is hotter than hell here today. Seems a little odd. It did start low when I first started the car, I believe it was 90 something and the numbers slowly went up until 164. Then I finally got the car to be able to move down the road (sputtering) and the temp went to 166 but didnt change from there. This coolant temp sensor is new. Do you think the calibration is off in the XFI?

I did also adjust the injector opening delay to "0" and the inductive delay to 40. After doing this, the car did feel a little better, this is when I was able to get it on the road. It still sputtered though.

Any ideas?
 
jdpolzin said:
Now that would definately not be good at all. I dont really see how that could be possible though.
Click to expand...
Umm cam gear could be worn, or not meshed correctly, if its an on-center block, or no oiling at the cam gear it will last about 200 miles.........The buick delay is supposed to be 96 and cam sync#6. If its moving from 95 to 90 or so that is ok, if its moving to 95 to 70 THAT IS NOT OK.
 
This is an off center block. I have heard of cam gear oiling issues but I didnt think it was a problem with off centers and stck style front covers?

What else would be a cause for the cam sensor to move so much? Or even move at all?
 
I just went out and changed the delay back to 96. No real difference in idle. The car idles smoother since Norbs sent me a re-tune but I still cant take it on the road.

I only had 20 seconds or so that I could get my computer connected to the XFI before it blue screened again but I see the Cam Snc #'s moving between 69 and 106 just in the short time. Could a bad cam sensor cause this?

Everything on the car is new or at least has very very few miles on it including the cam sensor.

Does the actual gear on the cam that runs the cam sensor wear out or would it be the timing chain or timing gears?
 
jdpolzin said:
I just went out and changed the delay back to 96. No real difference in idle. The car idles smoother since Norbs sent me a re-tune but I still cant take it on the road.

I only had 20 seconds or so that I could get my computer connected to the XFI before it blue screened again but I see the Cam Snc #'s moving between 69 and 106 just in the short time. Could a bad cam sensor cause this?

Everything on the car is new or at least has very very few miles on it including the cam sensor.

Does the actual gear on the cam that runs the cam sensor wear out or would it be the timing chain or timing gears?
Click to expand...


It could be all of the above, download the new usb driver it wont bluescreen

http://www.mediafire.com/?84t7pae9m3cp2cv
 
I'll pull the cam sensor out and check the gears on that first (easiest option). I cant believe this things already has wear on any of the parts but it is always a possiblity.

I also need to go out and lower my fuel psi some.

Little by little, 3 years of getting kicked in dick by this car i might be able to enjoy my $60k one of these days:rolleyes:! I'm buying a Monte next week so at least I'll be able to actually drive something this year!
 
jdpolzin said:
This is a FullThrottle HV Front Cover. Ever heard of them being off?
Click to expand...


The heat is getting to you, your repeating yourself....;) .take a picture of the wear pattern, might help up determine what's going on.
 
Oh man, this car has been nothing but a nightmare and nightmare after nightmare! It is getting to me really badly! I'm ready to part out the drivetrain and put a basic built motor in it. It's bad when your 4 year old son keeps asking you why cant ever go for a ride in Dad's Vroom Vroom and I do nothing but bust my ass day after day after day and spend unbelievable amounts of money and I still cant drive the stupid thing out of the driveway. It's sad.

I'll get to it again this Sunday or Monday and see what I can find. Hopefully this FullThrottleSpeed front cover isnt the cause of all of this. I've had enough problems with these cams lately. The front cover will really make me blow my top!:mad:
 
ForumRunner_20120706_212714.png



ForumRunner_20120706_212714.png

This is what I did with mine. Ran into the same issue, with the Weber set-up. Phil
 
I believe I read somewhere that Lee Thompson was drilling small holes in the plugs in the front of the block to squirt oil at the cam gear. Cant remember for sure but that may be a good option too.
 
Just to give you more headaches, I'm trying to find out the cam sync if its supposed to be 95 degree's or 85 degrees. On my car I was getting 95 degrees, but now 85 degrees is the number I am getting when I do the math, it all depends on if the fast takes account the 10 degree offset into the crank reading , when calculating the cam sync # or not, no one is giving me a clear answer on this on the fast forum yet.
Cal hartline should be able to help I hope?
The cam sync tells us where #6 is not #1 even though its referenced from #1 from the factory setting, this is why the precedes number is #6
 
You should see 85 degrees although 95 will still work. The XFI is only using it to sync the crank sensor. If you are wanting to move the injector opening time, do it on the [F5] Global screen. The cam sync should precede cylinder 6 unless you are running a real real old Flash (somewher around 36). I had some eye openers when I was doing the CNP stuff for the Buick.

Jeremy: Have you tried unplugging the cam sensor with car running to see if your tune straightens out or the engine shuts off (bad crank sensor)? I am driving back from the keys today and will be available tomorrow morning before I catch a plane in the afternoon.
 
OK, I noticed that the numbers turn yellow in the 90's range and green below 90. It's red above the 90's. To me, most numbers that are in range are yellow.
 
Thanks Cal, that clears that up. I'm going to check for play on the cam sensor and see why the numbers are bouncing so much.
 
jdpolzin said:
OK, I noticed that the numbers turn yellow in the 90's range and green below 90. It's red above the 90's. To me, most numbers that are in range are yellow.
Click to expand...

On V8 applications a value above 90 would be a problem.
 
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