XFI, rough idle, no A/F, no TPS

[jdpolzin]

Well I finally got the motor running. I was having issues with the ECu connecting to the computer. I found that I had version XFI 1.10 so I went online and downloaded version 1.340 and got the computer to connect using Com Port 4. Now the car is running but idles realy rough. RPM's go between 700 and 950 then eventually dies. I also noticed I have no TPS % and the color is RED, same with the Target A/F. Also I have error code 8 on the laptop. Anybody able to help me find the problems? Thanks guys! -------Jeremy

P.S. I also have any issue while the computer is connected to the XFI, it will work for a short time then the computer crashes.

 

[Blazer406]

Well I finally got the motor running. I was having issues with the ECu connecting to the computer. I found that I had version XFI 1.10 so I went online and downloaded version 1.340 and got the computer to connect using Com Port 4. Now the car is running but idles realy rough. RPM's go between 700 and 950 then eventually dies. I also noticed I have no TPS % and the color is RED, same with the Target A/F. Also I have error code 8 on the laptop. Anybody able to help me find the problems? Thanks guys! -------Jeremy

P.S. I also have any issue while the computer is connected to the XFI, it will work for a short time then the computer crashes.

When connected... and online with the XFI.... hit F3..... Base VE table.... what is the actual AFR when idling... before it dies...

The TPS% is just that.... when properly adjusted.... 0 is throttle closed.... 100 is throttle wide open.... I think it is normally red at 0%.

Why is it not showing target AFR? ..... maybe you haven't enabled closed loop operation?

I suspect you have many small issues... that can be solved... one at a time.... don't get too frustrated...

I'll help as much as my knowledge will let me...

Others will help too....

 

[austinibew145]

When connected... and online with the XFI.... hit F3..... Base VE table.... what is the actual AFR when idling... before it dies...

The TPS% is just that.... when properly adjusted.... 0 is throttle closed.... 100 is throttle wide open.... I think it is normally red at 0%.

Why is it not showing target AFR? ..... maybe you haven't enabled closed loop operation?

I suspect you have many small issues... that can be solved... one at a time.... don't get too frustrated...

I'll help as much as my knowledge will let me...

Others will help too....

OK how do i know when the TPS is adjusted properly? I tried to make adjustments but the % always stayed at 0 nomatter how the sensor was adjusted.

How do I enable closed loop operation?

 

[austinibew145]

the last post was jdpolzin not me!

 

[Blazer406]

OK how do i know when the TPS is adjusted properly? I tried to make adjustments but the % always stayed at 0 nomatter how the sensor was adjusted.

How do I enable closed loop operation?

Go online with the XFI..... view.... system configuration.....sensor calibration.... TPS calibration. This is where you tell the XFI how many volts is closed throttle... and how many is open throttle..... typically it might look like the pic below.

To properly scale the TPS.... first see what the TPS voltage is at closed throttle and WOT.........In the screenshot below... closed throttle is around .47 volts... and WOT is around 4.71 volts. You can double click on the bottom numbers and change them...... so put the first one on .47 (for this case.... yours will likely be slightly different) and set the last one to 4.71....then take the difference (4.71 - .47 = 4.24) Note there are 7 equal spaces on the bottom of the screen.... so divide 4.24 by 7 = .6057 volts per space. Then you simply do the math to figure out what the intermediate numbers should be..... i.e. the second number from the left is .47 + .6057 = 1.08... then the next...add .6057.... until you get all the spaces evenly filled. Sometimes the fast moves the number you type in by .01 or so.... no big deal...

If you want to see the raw TPS voltage..... it can be configured to show on any of the "dashboards" for the different screens.... It might be on the "Master Dash".... when online with the XFI... hit F9....

Is this helping any?

FWIW.... wherever you mention seeing the TPS @ 0%.... this value should rise as you press the gas IF you are online with the XFI.....

 

[Blazer406]

....snip.......How do I enable closed loop operation?

Go... view... closed loop parameters.....closed loop parameters.....see screen below...

The checkbox... obviously has to be checked to go into closed loop.....

Next... you must meet these basic conditions (based on screenshot below):

Engine has to have gone above 1000 RPM to go into closed loop. It cannot fall below 800 RPM.... or it will come out of closed loop... and go back to open loop. In this case... the engine must be above the 120 deg threshold to go into closed loop. The other parameters I have never messed with....

HTH

 

[jdpolzin]

OK thank you very much for that info. I unfortunately had to please the old lady and spend time with her tonight so I didnt have a chance to get out to the garage but I consider it an investment! So hopefully tomorrow I will have a chance to get into the system and check these parameters step by step. This is a great learning experience for me and I am really looking forward to bettering myself and my car. Thanks for your help and patients.

Any idea why the computer crashes while connected to the FAST system?

 

[Blazer406]

snip......Any idea why the computer crashes while connected to the FAST system?

Not sure....are you using a serial port? (for some reason I thought there might be a USB cable available... but not real sure....)

What OS on the laptop?

Also.... you mention upgrading the software to 1.34. What version of flash is in the XFI box?

 

[jdpolzin]

Not sure....are you using a serial port? (for some reason I thought there might be a USB cable available... but not real sure....)

What OS on the laptop?

Also.... you mention upgrading the software to 1.34. What version of flash is in the XFI box?

To be honest, I dont have a clue what flash is in the box. How do I re-flash it? I read up a little on this and it seems like I have to flash it before I connect it? What is the correct process to do this and how do I know it is the correct flash?

I have windos Vista, which I have heard may be a problem?

I have the USB adapter from Fast and I downloaded the disc that came with it.

 

[Blazer406]

To be honest, I dont have a clue what flash is in the box. How do I re-flash it? I read up a little on this and it seems like I have to flash it before I connect it? What is the correct process to do this and how do I know it is the correct flash?

I have windos Vista, which I have heard may be a problem?

I have the USB adapter from Fast and I downloaded the disc that came with it.

Per the "help" section in the XFI software... which I feel is an excellent source of info... they did a good job on it...

26.0 Flashing Updates into your XFI™
26.1 Overview
Your new FAST XFI™ is “in field flash-able”. That means that as we come up with ways to make your XFI™ work smarter, faster or do things we haven’t even thought of yet, you’ll be able to simply download the updates from our website and “flash” them into your XFI™’s ECU from your computer. You never have to remove the ECU from your vehicle. It’s just that simple! Below we’ll walk you through the steps to a successful “flash”.

26.2 Downloading a Flash update
First start by going to our website, FUEL AIR SPARK TECHNOLOGY, and check for the latest update. It will look like “flash_update_1A.xfi”. Save the flash update file to C:\CComWP XFI. NOTE - If a message pops up stating that the file already exists and asking if you’d like to replace the existing file, you can click on Cancel since you already have the latest flash update file. You are now done downloading the Flash update.

26.3 Flashing the update into your ECU
To “flash” the update file into your XFI™ ECU, please follow these simple steps:

Connect your computer to the ECU with the supplied Communication cable
With the ignition switch in the off position, ground the blue wire found in pin A of the DIAG connector in your XFI harness or pin A21 of the ECU main connector.
Turn the ignition switch to on but do not start the engine. The CRANK LED on the face of your ECU should start flashing.
In the C-Com WP XFI™ software, click on FILE/Flash XFI ECU…
In the lower left hand corner you will see a message stating “Flashing ECU” and the progress bar in the right hand corner will show that it’s loading also. This will usually happen very quickly so you may not have time to see them.
You will then see a “Verifying Flash” message in the same place in the lower left hand corner along with the progress bar in the right hand corner as in step 5.
You will now see a message asking you to “Restart the ECU”.
Turn the ignition switch to off.
Unground the blue wire from step number 2.
The ECU can now be restarted. You are now done updating the ECU.

 

[HighPSI]

You can find out which Flash by viewing it in the "Display ECU Configuration" window. If you are using an adaptor harness, to Flash the ecu you will need to jumper the two pins farthest to the right in the top row of the ALDL connector, similar to scanning for codes with the stock ecu.
In addition to the Closed Loop Parameters, all of the afterstart fuel must be gone before closed loop will enable.

 

[jdpolzin]

Well I'm trying to FLASH the update but it doesnt allow me to click the FLASH in the File section. The Crank LED doesnt flash like the above post suggests. I am using the adapter harness and I did jumper the two pins in the ALDL connector (Top far two pins to the right). There is a thumbwheel in the XFI plug and I have read somewhere it wont work with a thumbwheel. The thumbwheel utilizes PIN A21. What am I doing wrong?

When I go to check which flash, I see ECU Firmware is XFI2_4F, not real sure if that is an updated version or not? Otherwise it just goves the serial number and ECU Type XFI_B.

Also when I go to the closed loop parameters, the closed loop enable is checked.
Closed Loop High RPM: 700
Closed Loop Low RPM: 550
Cold Closed Loop Delay: 10
Hot Closed loop Delay: 10
Max Closed Loop Step: 9
Closed Loop Min Temp 140

I also noticed there is a TPS fault. I check the TPS by bilpping the throttle and I am not reading any changes on the XFI. The % stays at 0 and I have nothing as far as voltage reading.

 

[jdpolzin]

OK, well one step ahead, I did get the TPS calibrated and working properly!!! It's amazing how that changed the throttle responce. Now I just need answers to the other questions. The car still wants to die at idle and idles pretty rough. The Target A/F is still red and reading 0. The car dies at about 6.5 actual A/F.

 

[Blazer406]

OK, well one step ahead, I did get the TPS calibrated and working properly!!! It's amazing how that changed the throttle responce. Now I just need answers to the other questions. The car still wants to die at idle and idles pretty rough. The Target A/F is still red and reading 0. The car dies at about 6.5 actual A/F.

Alright..... you are making progress....

Go online with the car running....

Hit F3...... the Base VE table will pull up..... look at where the bubble is on the screen....this is what cell is controlling the fuel at that moment.

Use the page up or page down on your keynboard to raise or lower the value 1 number at a time.

Pay attention to adjacent cells.... they shouldn't be drastically different..... another words... if you tweak a cell (idling) to say 26 ....... the cell beside it needs to not be to far off.....like 28-30 or so.....

Your VE table needs much tweaking.... lowering the numbers will lean the car down.... and should run much better...

 

[jdpolzin]

Alright..... you are making progress....

Go online with the car running....

Hit F3...... the Base VE table will pull up..... look at where the bubble is on the screen....this is what cell is controlling the fuel at that moment.

Use the page up or page down on your keynboard to raise or lower the value 1 number at a time.

Pay attention to adjacent cells.... they shouldn't be drastically different..... another words... if you tweak a cell (idling) to say 26 ....... the cell beside it needs to not be to far off.....like 28-30 or so.....

Your VE table needs much tweaking.... lowering the numbers will lean the car down.... and should run much better...

Ok, I understand 6.5 is very very rich. I'm using E85 in this car. By adjusting this value, is it going to throw my start up tune off while actually driving the car or is the VE table pretty much just at idle?

Also, this question may be more for Cal, what is a good target A/f at WOT I should be looking to shoot for? Thhe car isnt ready to drive yet but I was just thinking I need to know what a safe spot is that I should be looking to be. Also, how do I flash the ECU with the thumbwheel hooked up?

Thanks again guys! I'm so thrilled my car is finally coming along and just to hear it run is awesome! Now I just need to learn!

 

[Blazer406]

Ok, I understand 6.5 is very very rich. I'm using E85 in this car. By adjusting this value, is it going to throw my start up tune off while actually driving the car or is the VE table pretty much just at idle?

Also, this question may be more for Cal, what is a good target A/f at WOT I should be looking to shoot for? Thhe car isnt ready to drive yet but I was just thinking I need to know what a safe spot is that I should be looking to be. Also, how do I flash the ECU with the thumbwheel hooked up?

Thanks again guys! I'm so thrilled my car is finally coming along and just to hear it run is awesome! Now I just need to learn!

The VE table IS the fuel the car needs to run and accelerate in vacuuum and boost. Do not use the VE table to fix a startup mixture issue.... there are startup enrichment tables that can help iron out the starting....get those VE numbers down to where the car wants it... you'll know it when you get there....

 

[jdpolzin]

The VE table IS the fuel the car needs to run and accelerate in vacuuum and boost. Do not use the VE table to fix a startup mixture issue.... there are startup enrichment tables that can help iron out the starting....get those VE numbers down to where the car wants it... you'll know it when you get there....

OK, I guess I didnt really mean WHILE STARTING but actually the start up tune that Cal sent me. Meaning, I dont want to lean the car out while I am in Boost until I know more about tuning. I was planning to run with Cal's program for quite a while until I feel safe with the tuning. But, adjusting the one cell at idle should only change during idle and not further up in the RPM range?

 

[Blazer406]

OK, I guess I didnt really mean WHILE STARTING but actually the start up tune that Cal sent me. Meaning, I dont want to lean the car out while I am in Boost until I know more about tuning. I was planning to run with Cal's program for quite a while until I feel safe with the tuning. But, adjusting the one cell at idle should only change during idle and not further up in the RPM range?

Correct... on the left side... you'll see kPa .... that is kiloPascals... a unit of pressure.... 100 kPa is basically 0 boost 0 vacuum.... any row below 100kPa is the the vacuum portion of the VE table.... any cell above that is in the boost region of the table.... basically you tweak all the lowest cells while idling and crusing under little to no load.... RPM's progress from left to right....

Make any sense?

 

[jdpolzin]

Correct... on the left side... you'll see kPa .... that is kiloPascals... a unit of pressure.... 100 kPa is basically 0 boost 0 vacuum.... any row below 100kPa is the the vacuum portion of the VE table.... any cell above that is in the boost region of the table.... basically you tweak all the lowest cells while idling and crusing under little to no load.... RPM's progress from left to right....

Make any sense?

Yep, I'm pickin in it little by little. i'll go in and adjust the A/F tonight and post the results! Thanks again! ------Jeremy

 

[jdpolzin]

Ok I played with the A/F in the idle cells and it did start to smooth out. I have quite a jump in numbers once out of the first few cells. The car does idle better but it revs up and down in RPM's from 800-950. I also got the TPS recalibrated last night which helped some.

I still need to find out how to flash this box with the thumbwheel.

Also, where do I calibrate the Fuel and oil Pressure? I know i have to do it but I cant find where. I'm thinking I need to make sure my Fuel Pressure is at 43psi with the line off.

Do I need to calibrate any other sensors?