Code 14...Need Help Bad

[zhorner]

Cruising down the highway at 70 mph, car purring like a kitten for 20 minutes straight...then slight spudder and bam car dies. powerlogger shows coolant temp spike from a steady 175 to 260 then back to 175 right before it dies. pull to the shoulder turn key off then starts right back up, sometimes makes it home without another issue...sometimes only makes it 200 yards before the same thing happens. I am putting some miles on my car after a rebuild before tuning it and this is killing me. this happened before the rebuild as well although not nearly as often.

I replaced the coolant temp sensor as well as the plug and still the same thing happens. plug is getting 5 volts with the key on. checked the wires as well as I could trace them on the drivers side and then where they go through the fire wall on the passenger side and couldn't see any damage.

I am calling upon this community of bada$$ motherf'ers to help me out. I am not an electrical guy...more like that guy who needs you to draw a picture so the more detailed you can be with troubleshooting the better.

it means a lot to me to get this fixed and any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[v6turbo87]

Possible bad ignition module. Try to find a known good one to try before spending money on one.

 

[Phoneguy]

Very possible that the fuel pump is going out.
Do you have a way to log or see the fuel pressure ?

Bryan

 

[whitehot1]

Typical causes for this code include:

1) Severe engine overheating
2) Defective Coolant Temperature Sensor (resistance too low)
3) Short circuit in CTS-ECM harness
4) Defective ECM

 

[zhorner]

fuel pressure is logged via PL and stays constant. would a bad ign module cause it to throw the coolant code? worth a shot if I can find someone with one. is their a way to test for number 3, a short circuit in the cts ecm harness?

 

[zhorner]

I am going to run a wire from the ecm to the sensor (yellow wire) to eliminate the possibility of a wiring harness short. I have a few questions...

1. where is the yellow 5v wire at on the ECM plug?
2. Is the black wire a ground? if so does it get its ground from the ecm or where? I may just re run this to a good ground if that is what it is.

thanks everyone.

 

[zhorner]

found the pinout. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ecmsensors/ecmpins.html
looks like C10 is the yellow wire and D12 is the ground for the CTS, TPS, and MAT. Just going to mess with the yellow wire first to see if that fixes it. I feel like if the ground were bad and supplies the TPS as well I would see coinciding issues on the PL between the TPS and CTS which I don't.

please correct me if im wrong.

 

[v6turbo87]

A defective coolant temp sensor will not make the engine die.

 

[zhorner]

I took it out this morning and logged it. Died on me twice in the highway like usual. Cruising @ 60mph -> Dies instantly without warning -> Pull over and come to stop -> Starts right back up without any hesitation.

Its throwing a code 14 like usual but the logs basically show it losing everything, all voltage and everything for a moment is completely lost. Please take a look at the logs and let me know what you think. based on comments thus far and some searching I have a list of things that might cause it to die like this: module, crank sensor, cam sensor, MAF, coil pack, harmonic balancer, ESC module, + wire to starter. It would be nice if someone could look at the logs and be able to eliminate some of those possibilities.

 

[zhorner]

also, I had my ECM out of the kick panel for this drive and made a point to feel it after it died. it wasn't hot at all, just a tad warmer than cab temps.

 

[zhorner]

anyone? Im struggling with this and don't want to throw parts at it if i can avoid it.

 

[TurboDave]

Looks like you're suffering a complete loss of electrical power for just a split second or so. First thing you might want to try is to pull the connections off your battery and clean the connections on the connectors and battery. You've got some flaky voltage issues.
Replace your vehicle speed graph in the above picture, and look at the battery volt trace in that last 1/3 of the recording! Wierd stuff.

 

[Phoneguy]

Is it possible that the connector for the ignition switch is loose ?

Bryan

 

[zhorner]

 

[zhorner]

Is it possible that the connector for the ignition switch is loose ?

Bryan

that's a possibility. I can start my car without a key if that matters. It dies whether the key is in or not.

 

[v6turbo87]

Don't know what cleaning the battery terminals would do since the engine runs off the alternator not the battery. Check the Orange wire thst supplies the ECM power

 

[zhorner]

Terminals are clean. Im at a shop right now hooked a test light to the orange backup power wire and the pink and black power wire to the ecm...Neither lost power before or when it dies. I can pop it in neutral and it will start right back up as if nothing happened. Pretty frustrating

 

[v6turbo87]

Make sure the connector to the ignition module is tight. Take a look at the crank sensor too. Make sure it isn't loose in the bracket and there are no signs of the interuptor ring rubbing.

 

[zhorner]

I got it back home and dropped the column (partially) then had to stop because of tornado sirens. Before I stopped I noticed the ignition switch had a butt splice on the large purple wire with a white stripe. and the 2 wires that connect to it go into a small black box...I just have to assume an aftermarket alarm system. I wonder if that could have anything to do with my problem? Either way I am going to delete it and replace the ignition switch since it was only $15.

 

[garyk1970]

Purple is the starter...no foul there.....have you checked the grounds on back of passenger head? Also unhook alternator control connector to see if alt is putting out ac at rpms...