Your gains from new Champion intake?

Your going to need a -8 45 AN fitting for the top of the intake and a 90 -6 for the return. ON the frame you will need to get a fitting similar to this. Also if you look at the location of the bypass hose you can clearly see in this pic what your up against, it is behind the -6 an line. The line is run this way since there is not room to put it on the other side of the distributor.
 

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Good pics. Fuel lines are already -10/-6 AN so that is no issue. Neither is the coolant bypass since the turbo cooling line are my new bypass.
Not running AC but great pics that show a distributor will work with the factory accessory bracket with a little cutting. Looks like the throttle bracket will drop down farther with a little trimming, hard to tell.

Thanks Norbie. Keep those pics coming as situations arise.
 
norbs said:
Distrib with bracket cut off


Are the steelbred line for fuel?

I don`t know if the fuel will boil/Hot with the line sitting that close to the engine block? You might want use some form of insulator on the line or move the line away for the block. Very nice set-up :cool: .

"Your gonna keep melting if you don't go with a distributor Heres some of the install pics. The waste spark i think effects the a/f ratio thinking you to belive its rich its not. This is my theory anyway"

This may not be a Theory. We all know the V6 fire two plugs at the same time. the waste spark system can also generate heat (on the non power stroke Cylinder) also buring any excess HG (hydrocarbon) This excess burn off from non-power storke cylinder can foil the o2/wide band down stream on A power stroke cylinder True A/F ratio.

This may sound crazy, but the mesurement can`t be too far off.
 
You can get the Saginaw fittings fro full throttle speed or racetronix I believe. Someone posted the Aeroquip PN before also, do a search.

Well, I made the jump and ordered an intake. Might throw a distribulamator thingie on there too. Looks like the combo might change a little even though I think I could have done a 9.40 with what I have.
 
Actually that fitting is a modified #6 metric fitting cut down and jb welded to the bottom of the regulator. The thread screws in perfectly, but there is no real way to seal it because its no a tapered thread. The jb does the sealing part and the thread holds it in place.

The hoses are touching the block and there is really not much room for any insulator mat'l that would be thick anyway. I iwll just have to leave it for now.

I will have to do more research somewhere about the wastespark alters the a/f ratio.

I made some progress tonight fuel system is tested and wil be making spark plug wires tomorrow. Then its wiring the accel 300+ box coil, ccc wiriing etc.
 
norbs said:
Actually that fitting is a modified #6 metric fitting cut down and jb welded to the bottom of the regulator. The thread screws in perfectly, but there is no real way to seal it because its no a tapered thread. The jb does the sealing part and the thread holds it in place.

The hoses are touching the block and there is really not much room for any insulator mat'l that would be thick anyway. I iwll just have to leave it for now.

I will have to do more research somewhere about the wastespark alters the a/f ratio.

I made some progress tonight fuel system is tested and wil be making spark plug wires tomorrow. Then its wiring the accel 300+ box coil, ccc wiriing etc.
Hopefully the jb weld does not crack from engine vibration. ;)
 
Norb,

Thanks for sending me the pictures! :mad:
They do look very nice though!!!
 
Well i figured everyone one should see whats involved installing such an intake. I have found outr you need a 60 degree -8an fitting on the fuel rail instead of a 45. I need a place to buy a such a fitting as here in Canada they just laughed and said 6 weeks and $50.
 
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