Wtf?!?!?!?!

G

graza002

Nucking Futs
Joined
Dec 28, 2005
Once again, Effing cooling issue. There is nothing else I can test, check or replace, its all been done.

Today I drove the car for about 2 hours in stop and go traffic. Everything was fine, a cool 168 degrees.

I parked the car for 4 hours, to come out and drive it again. I checked the coolant level, and it was a little low so I added water. I started the car and drove off, two blocks away from my house my temp was 240 degrees and climbing.

What the HELL?! Someone please inform me of what I am missing here!!!!
 
Hi,
This problem sounds eerily like one I have experienced with one of my cars.A partially blown headgasket will cause this. It is hard to fathom, but I know ,in my case replacing the gaskets fixed the problem. Not something you want to hear,I'm sure, but it can always be worse. Good luck with this issue.
 
check your coolant reservoir when its running-if you re getting bubbles you could have a hg leak. try putting some gm sealing tablets in it.
 
83ttypecooled said:
Hi,
This problem sounds eerily like one I have experienced with one of my cars.A partially blown headgasket will cause this. It is hard to fathom, but I know ,in my case replacing the gaskets fixed the problem. Not something you want to hear,I'm sure, but it can always be worse. Good luck with this issue.
Click to expand...


Just replaced the HG. I run the RJC HG's. I have re-torqued the HG's...maybe it needs to be done again?
 
49-blues said:
check your coolant reservoir when its running-if you re getting bubbles you could have a hg leak. try putting some gm sealing tablets in it.
Click to expand...

I dont notice an bubbles when it is running, but when the car is off I see bubbles.
 
Sounds like an air bubble in the system. Run the engine with the radiator cap off. Let it idle and bring it up to running temp, where the thermostat opens and you say see the coolant flowing when you look in the cap hole. Turn the heater on full blast. grab the throttle on the TB and gently rev the motor up and down and keep an eye on the flowing coolant. You should see alot of bubbles popping through the radiators core tubes. Keep doing that until you see the bubbles stop for the most part. If they dont stop, air is getting in the system from somewhere, and you need to look around. Do you have any leaking hoses? Is the heater valve leaking? Are the radiator hoses in good shape...like they're not collapsing? Everyone was telling me it sounded like I had a blown head gasket, but after I pulled my intake and replaced that crappy steel shimstock intake gasket with a fel pro 1 piece pan type intake gasket, and threw in the 100 dollar autozone F-Body radiator, my overheating woes ended for good. The only time the temps have climbed back up, is when Ive had leaks in the system. Usually, if coolant is getting out, air is getting in.
 
Sounds like you got air in the coolant system, but as a precaution,
I would pull the dipstick and make sure there is NO antifreeze "creeping" into the Oil Pan. No Milky substance under the breather cap etc.
 
What vaderv6 said! Also, it may be bubbling when you turn the car off because you've heated the block so much and water isn't circulating, the block in turn is boiling the water that's in it.
 
VadersV6 said:
Sounds like an air bubble in the system. Run the engine with the radiator cap off. Let it idle and bring it up to running temp, where the thermostat opens and you say see the coolant flowing when you look in the cap hole. Turn the heater on full blast. grab the throttle on the TB and gently rev the motor up and down and keep an eye on the flowing coolant. You should see alot of bubbles popping through the radiators core tubes. Keep doing that until you see the bubbles stop for the most part. If they dont stop, air is getting in the system from somewhere, and you need to look around. Do you have any leaking hoses? Is the heater valve leaking? Are the radiator hoses in good shape...like they're not collapsing? Everyone was telling me it sounded like I had a blown head gasket, but after I pulled my intake and replaced that crappy steel shimstock intake gasket with a fel pro 1 piece pan type intake gasket, and threw in the 100 dollar autozone F-Body radiator, my overheating woes ended for good. The only time the temps have climbed back up, is when Ive had leaks in the system. Usually, if coolant is getting out, air is getting in.
Click to expand...

I installed the F-body set up, with a new H20 pump, and I tested the T-stat.

The hoses are new and are not collapsing..from what I have seen.

The heater core is bypasses.

I use the fel-pro 1 piece intake gasket.

When I fill the Radiator I have the cap off, wait till the coolant drops down, re fill and then put the cap back on the rad. When i do this I use a small wedge to keep the RPM's to about 1500-2000.

There is no milky oil, nothing on the cap or breathers, and the oil level is good.

From the coolant that is in the Rad/over flow that does not get sucked out, there is no oil.

I dont notice any seepage along the heads, or an new leaks on the floor.

I also made sure the drain plug is tight.

When I drive the car, there is no smoke gray, black or white. The car actually runs great.

The only other thing I can think of, is if there is coolant seeping into the in combustion chamber, which on a cold start causes a very rough idle and moisture out of the rear pipes. But after 30 sec everything clears up.

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

AHHHHHHHHHHHH...is all I have left....LOL


Thanks for all the input, anything else?
 
Theres no guarantee that the intake gasket job has sealed properly. You can be seeping water into the EGR passages on the intake face of the heads, or any number of things. Did you check the flatness of the mating face of the intake? Did you use a good sealer, hopefully not RTV...and whatever sealant you used, hopefully it didnt go on too thick. How did you go about bypassing the heater valve? Just a straight tube, no re-routing? Did you flush the system out really good before installing the radiator? Does the water start flowing at the temperature of your thermostat?...Im not talking about the water level dropping. You should see it flowing. Is the fan coming on at the right temp, and spinning fast enough? I thought mine was, until I cleaned out all the pins and sockets on the fan relays...then it was like a whole new animal.
The fact that it sits and then overheats after you restart, tells me you have air seeping in somewhere, and/or your fans arent operating as they should...almost like when the high speed fan is supposed to switch on, it doesnt...like the fan stops altogether, which would be a sign of poor relay connections...use ronsonol lighter fluid and bristle brushes, and compressed air if you have it, and get all those sockets and pins clean and free of all that old hardened up dieelectric grease. Sounds like low speed fan works..maybe not that well, but it works....then high speed fan is supposed to happen, but the circuit shorts and you have no spinning fan. You should check it out.
 
VadersV6 said:
Theres no guarantee that the intake gasket job has sealed properly. You can be seeping water into the EGR passages on the intake face of the heads, or any number of things. Did you check the flatness of the mating face of the intake? Did you use a good sealer, hopefully not RTV...and whatever sealant you used, hopefully it didnt go on too thick. How did you go about bypassing the heater valve? Just a straight tube, no re-routing? Did you flush the system out really good before installing the radiator? Does the water start flowing at the temperature of your thermostat?...Im not talking about the water level dropping. You should see it flowing. Is the fan coming on at the right temp, and spinning fast enough? I thought mine was, until I cleaned out all the pins and sockets on the fan relays...then it was like a whole new animal.
The fact that it sits and then overheats after you restart, tells me you have air seeping in somewhere, and/or your fans arent operating as they should...almost like when the high speed fan is supposed to switch on, it doesnt...like the fan stops altogether, which would be a sign of poor relay connections...use ronsonol lighter fluid and bristle brushes, and compressed air if you have it, and get all those sockets and pins clean and free of all that old hardened up dieelectric grease. Sounds like low speed fan works..maybe not that well, but it works....then high speed fan is supposed to happen, but the circuit shorts and you have no spinning fan. You should check it out.
Click to expand...

You have great ideas. Thanks.

I flushed and back flushed the whole system when the water pump was off.

When the fans were running the air off the fans were cool, so something was not circulating. How do you test the high fan speed?

The fans come on at 170 and run till 162. When I drove the car the first part of the day everything seemed to work well.

I will clean the connection, what is the brand of stuff you used?

I used "right Stuff" to seal the intake manifold.

I may pull the EGR to see if I find and condensation.

I think I answered all of your questions, I hope lol. If not let me know.
 
Didnt see anything on replacement of sensor. Stock gauge or aftermarket gauge. I have had an Autometer electeric gauge do this. Drove me crazy till I figured it out!! I finally pinpointed the gauge when it read HOT before it had time to get there This doesnt explain loss of water though GL
 
TURBOTOMZ said:
Didnt see anything on replacement of sensor. Stock gauge or aftermarket gauge. I have had an Autometer electeric gauge do this. Drove me crazy till I figured it out!! I finally pinpointed the gauge when it read HOT before it had time to get there This doesnt explain loss of water though GL
Click to expand...

I am reading my temps through the scanmaster and the VDO temp gauge. I have new sensors as well.

I am going to test everything to make sure it works, provided everything is good then only half the problem is resolved.

Whats the deal for the disappearing coolant? :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
Sounds like air in the system

I just read quickly through the responses. Change your T-stat for one, check your radiator cap and burp your cooling system. You mentioned you have bypassed the heater core. Does your bypass rise higher than the top of your radiator? Are there any kinks in your bypass, if so that could cause problems. Check your bypass set up again. Sure sounds like a air lock issue or a sticking T-Stat.
 
acoen said:
I just read quickly through the responses. Change your T-stat for one, check your radiator cap and burp your cooling system. You mentioned you have bypassed the heater core. Does your bypass rise higher than the top of your radiator? Are there any kinks in your bypass, if so that could cause problems. Check your bypass set up again. Sure sounds like a air lock issue or a sticking T-Stat.
Click to expand...


I am losing a lot of fluid, this time I am down half of the radiator :eek: .

The bypass is a cap right on the intake manifold right where the rubber core lines go to the heater core.

I think the t-stat died, but when I installed the t-stat I did test it, and it did work.

Rad. cap is new (16 lb cap) along with a new fbody radiator.
 
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