Wtb: Cai
- Thread starter regalgs
- Start date
Well, here's a copy and paste of a post I saved off the clubgp board a while back. It details the buildup of the fenderwell intake I mentioned earlier, I'm going to be doing it soon too.Originally posted by SloRegal
how do i make one?
i am new to this stuff.
HTH:sorry for the delay guys, but i was kinda of busy over the past week........so here are the instructions:
This is the parts list for the all PVC version of the fenderwell intake(Home Depot style):
(2)3"couplers
(4)3"PVC 45 degree street elbows
(1)straight piece of 3"ABS pipe about a foot long.(cut to fit application)
(1)1/2"I.D rubber grommet that will fit the PVC for the use of the IAT sensor.
(1)9 or 7" cone filter.
(1)bottle of PVC cement(epoxy)
I already had an 9" cone setup i purchased from GPS,i don't know what everyone has so i added an extra 45 degree elbow,1/2 rubber grommet and the filter to the list.
Instructions:
-disconnect battery(you do this so the PCM can learn the added air coming in on reconnection)
-remove all the pre-existing CAI and place the PCM out of the way for now.
Alot of people jacked their car up and removed the drivers side tire, i didn't. All i did was turn the steering wheel all the way to the right.
-remove the black wheel lining from the wheel well(it basically screws around the outside and underneath.
-remove headlight(for fitting purposes and better sight,2 bolts)
There is a brace on the inside of the fender(really flimsy),at the bottom of that brace there is a bolt(10mm),remove that bolt and push the brace to the inside of the fender.
If you don't have a cone setup already, you will have to drill out a hole for the IAT sensor grommet. People have said it is better to place it as close to the fresh air as possible,i can't see this, maybe on idle but when WOT won't make a difference. Your choice.
-connect a 3"coupler to the TB(throttle body)and a 45 degree elbow on the other side.
-connect another 45 to the last(dry fit everthing first before tightening and epoxy.)
I connected a 45 onto the straight piece of ABS pipe first before connecting it to the last 45 already installed,it was easier to work on.You will have to connect the 45 onto the straight pipe using a coupler onto the smaller end as for the cone will fit onto the larger side,reverse everthing.
-connect the straight pipe of ABS to the last 45 degree already installed and aim it towards the opening on the inside into the fenderwell pushing that braceto the side.
Its a tight fit,but that brace acts as support and holds the PVC in place.
- add the last 45 degree elbow onto the last and pont it downwards.
After i had everthing in place,it was a little to long to fit my filter on so i cut about 2 1/2 to 3" off the straight piece of ABS for a better fit,you will have to do this also using your cone to see how it fits on the PVC,it should fit*snuggly*,be perpendicular to the ground and a tight fit ,but it will work.
-after everthing is measured up and you are satisfied,you can now epoxy and tighten all your connections.
-again make sure everything is tighten well,put the wheel well liner back on,headlight and reconnect battery.
-push the IAT sensor into the rubber grommet already pre-installed.
-i just tie wrapped my PCM to the frame,it holds well.
Here are some pics of a fellow member install for a better idea: http://community.webshots.com/album/31761428DIofGnBQpj
Next thing to do is admire your work and go try it out on some unexpecting ricers.
If you have any questions,don't hesitate to ask.
-Jamie
First get your car in an easy to work location and cut the wheel as far left as possible.
Now disconnect your negative battery terminal and keep it away from any metal grounds. This will reset your pcm during the time you spend on the install.
I'd highly recommend sticking with a smooth rubber coupler as the mounting point. The stock f-duct is all ribbed and hurts air flow in exchange for a silencer effect...but I imagine your keeping it for the iat sensor mount.
What is a stay bar? Is that the fender support bar? Don't worry about torque specs on them, just tighten them back down slowly until firm...they strip easily so don't over do it.
Things you'll want to do....
Have the fenderwell setup completely assembled minus the 9 inch filter.
Loosen the air box...you can usually just yank it up after the f-duct is disconnected. Don't pull it out of the bay yet, just get it loose.
Remove the pcm from the air box. 2 screws or bolts or something and the pcm pops out. Don't freak out looking at all those wires, just rest the pcm aside for the moment.
Remove the air box.
Now it's time to "bend" the fenderwell support brace out of the way a bit, so you can snake the fenderwell piping in there. You have one 8mm or 10 mm bolt to remove (can't remember the mm) and the brace will feel a little loose. You want to push the brace toward the fender...just give it a light push a few times and it will bend back. (IF YOUR FENDER becomes loose you've removed the incorrect bolt. Reconnect that bolt and look again)
Once that's done you'll want to fit the fenderwell piping in the fenderwell. Don't try to put the filter on first because that thing is not going in from the top.
Connect the piping to the f-duct of coupler and tighten things up.
Reattach your IAT sensor wiring.
Now for the pita part.
Slip under the driver's side fenderwell and begin removing the screws in the clips holding that plastic sheet over the fenderwell area. You don't have to remove the entire thing, but it would probably make things easier for you if you did.
Once this is off or loose enough to be bent back slip the 9 inch cone filter inside the fenderwell via the front inlet. (In front of the plastic sheath area.
Guide the filter on to the inlet of the new piping and clamp it down firmly. Try not to get any grease or oils on that section of the pipe so your filter doesn't fall off.
Look the job over a few times and make sure things are routed properly and everything is tight.
Put the plastic fender shield on with the clips and screws.
Now it's time to secure the pcm. You can do this by purchasing a tray for it like MSP sells, or you can use zip ties to do it.
If you choose to use zip ties be sure to loop them through holes in the body and keep the pcm as far in the right corner as possible (wiring only extends so far). I believe some of the older gp's actually have to mount the pcm vertically next to the coolant bottle due to length of wiring. Be sure to clip the ends of the zip ties so they don't end up resting on a high heat area and starting a fire.
Reconnect any disconnected wiring like the iat sensor and put the negative wire back on the battery if at least an hour has passed. Put the fender support bar back on.
Crank the car over for a few seconds...
It may sputter and die on the first crank. If it does it will crank over on the second attempt.
Look under the hood again and make sure everything looks good. Nothing should be smoking or chuggin or belching etc etc.
Take the car out for a spin and alternate acceleration from light to heavy at different speeds.
After a few minutes\hours? the pcm will optimize the new setup and your done.
