Wiped #3 intake, what now?

[GN-231]

My 87 developed a light ticking noise at light throttle and idle. I thought the noise might be a stuck lifter or maybe that one of my adjustable pushrods had loosened up. WRONG.... The noise presisted and got worse, so I removed the intake last weekend, I discovered that I had wiped the #3 intake lobe of my poston 107T cam. The lifter was totally concaved on the seat and the cam lobe was deformed. The oil pressure in the car was just fine at idle 15 to 20 psi. The car was running fine until the cam went south.
The cam lasted about 2 years and probably about 8K to 10K miles, I broke it in meticulously to the instructions I found on gn/t-type.org, so I am not sure why it failed so early. I mainly use the car as a daily driver and this cam never saw the strip.
I probably drove about 40 miles with the ticking noise, so I guess
I am wondering if it is safe to just pull the cam and install a new cam and lifters? I am a little worried about the possible contamination of metal particles from the lobe or lifter in the engine. I run a K&N oil filter which should filter the oil before delivery to the engine.....but is this enough...or should I be worried about other particles in the engine that may have not been filtered out?
Basically, I just want to order a comp cam roller...install the cam....and never worry about wiping a lobe again, but I am wondering if there is anything else I should be doing!
Thanks,
Tim

 

[Billdogg]

My buddy did this with his 206 cam. He pulled it out, and put in a roller cam kit. Didn't worry too much about metal particles.

 

[2 SLOW]

Billdogg is right. The oil filter should stop any metal from getting to the bearings. I have wiped a lobe before and changed the cam without checking anything. However it wouldn't hurt to pull the pan and clean it and check the pickup screen. You could also pull a main and a rod cap just to look, but I doubt anything will be hurt.

#3 cam lobe is the one that goes most often. It is off center to the lifter and gets an uneven load. Higher than normal valve spring pressures will shorten cam life if it's a flat tappet cam. It's hard to put an exact number on it, but roughly don't go more than 100 lbs on the seat, and try not to go over 230 - 240 over the top. If you could find springs with 100 and 210 - 220 it would be better. Nothing wrong with a roller, it's just more money and if done right a flat tappet cam will last.

 

[Nick Micale]

Originally posted by GN-231
.......
I am wondering if it is safe to just pull the cam and install a new cam and lifters? I am a little worried about the possible contamination of metal particles from the lobe or lifter in the engine. I run a K&N oil filter which should filter the oil before delivery to the engine.....but is this enough...or should I be worried about other particles in the engine that may have not been filtered out? Tim

Here is what I would do in a case like yours. First, pull the pan like was said. Then make sure you flush the oil cooler and lines.

After assembly, I would put in new oil and filter and run oil pressure with a drill motor. Before doing this, remove the turbo oil feed line and pump this "new" oil into a container so it flushes any remaining contaminants from the oil galleys and passages.

Install a magnetic drain plug, fresh oil and filter.

With the new cam, roller or not, use cam lube and a bottle of GM EOS additive. Change oil within 100 miles.