Will be putting an 8cyl in "Fear"

[Quint]

Been talking with Jan Mohler about moving to a bigger engine. We will sell the stage II engine, complete minus the outlaw PT91.5 turbo we run and be using that for the new combo. We already know that right now, we can go low 8's to high 8's, with just more or less boost. But I hate pushing the car that hard and simply want to be competitive in some of these races, where if we needed to we could get the car to 7.50's-7.70's and still have an engine left over. We will start the process around March or April of next year. We want to go with a non LS set up for cost reasons, unless we get more then expected from the engine ($15-20k). I already know Jan has some ideas, and wants to make it a build to remember with the power its going to make. Any advise with engines to consider T/K. We dont want to go over $15k T/K ready to run, your advise is appreciated. Thanks guys and Gals

 

[Louie L.]

In order to build enough power for 7.50s, have left over and stay near your budget you will need a big block. Just my opinion.You will have to take into account what classes you are gonna run, as the engine combo could keep you out of certain classes.

I believe that my basic combo has 7.80s pushing it, but no more at the current weight.

If you stay small block you have to go with really nice heads like some SBX, Little chiefs or something of the sort.

 

[John Wilde]

Quint,

It sound like you are really stepping up your game.
I just spoke to my friend Ben who tunes Dave Bowman's Drag Radial Camaro.
They went 7.6 @ 190 with a lot left this weekend.
This pass was at over 3500lbs and on 275/60 DRs.

If you are going to want to go that fast you will need to do a lot of of stuff to the car.

-25.2 or 25.3 on the chassis
-Upgrade the tranny and maybe rear end
-Take weight out of the car

It may make sense to try and sell the car and start with a lighter roller.

What ever you do congratulations on stepping up and I very much look forward to your build.

Best regards,

 

[Quint]

Thanks guys for the info. I was talking with dusty on the big block, but this would put an extra 100#'s on the front, unless I go aluminum, which I cannot afford. I do not understand what the extra 100#'s would do to hurt me? I will only do the basic cert up front for 7.50, and this will only cost me about $2k, from where Im at right now. Now of course rear endm, etc, with tranny could change things, but I honestly dont care to run faster then 7.60-7.80's, so the tranny should be fine. Im also going to start with the turbo we have now, since we want to see where it runs out of steam. I should be able to go high 7's with it. BUt if someone wants the entire engine with Turbo, then fine, I may go bigger then. I dont want to go to big, because I want quick spool if possible.

 

[Quint]

John your boy is flying for sure. I will not be going to where he is probably heading, since I dont want to next oevel ov cert and build at 7.50 and faster.

 

[John Wilde]

Quint,

Anything faster than 8.5 at a NHRA track will require one of the new certificatons:


Spec # Full Bodied Cars

25.1E Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 2,800 lbs. Maximum

25.2 Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.49 Seconds & Quicker; 3,200 lbs. Maximum

25.3 Full Bodied Car with Aftermarket Body Shell and Tube Frame, OEM Body Shell and OEM Frame with OEM or Modified Floorpan and Firewall, or Uni-Body with OEM or Modified Floorpan and Firewall Roll Cage - 6.50 to 7.49 Seconds ET; 3,600 Lbs. Maximum

25.4 Full Bodied Car Tube Chassis – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum

25.5 Full Bodied Car Stock or Modified/OEM Floorpan and Firewall with OEM Frame or Uni-Body Construction – 7.50 to 8.49 Seconds; 3,600 lbs. Maximum


IMO you would need the 25.4 min, but you may want to go for the 25.3

Best regards,

 

[Dusty Bradford]

With the V8, spooling will not be an issue. Anything from a 91-106 will spool easily.

The extra 100# isn't a deal breaker. But making a car 60' well, on a small tire with extra nose weight doesn't make life easy.

I still think a 15* or 18* head small block will run 7.70's in a 3500# car without hurting parts. Extra focus will need to be placed on the coolant system to keep the heads cool with a conventional small block head. The best choice for a more serious small block head with a budget would be the BD2000 style head from Brodix.

To move a 3500# car into the 7.50's, things will have to be more serious.

 

[Louie L.]

John, Bowman is now running twins? What size ?

 

[EightSecV6]

F.S. All brand new,406 SBC with sb2.2 heads for turbo set up - Yellow Bullet Forums

this will get you there fo cheap!

 

[Quint]

With the V8, spooling will not be an issue. Anything from a 91-106 will spool easily.

The extra 100# isn't a deal breaker. But making a car 60' well, on a small tire with extra nose weight doesn't make life easy.

I still think a 15* or 18* head small block will run 7.70's in a 3500# car without hurting parts. Extra focus will need to be placed on the coolant system to keep the heads cool with a conventional small block head. The best choice for a more serious small block head with a budget would be the BD2000 style head from Brodix.

To move a 3500# car into the 7.50's, things will have to be more serious.

Dusty, I was remembering what you told me before about the heads. I would like to keep my PT 91.5 we have now and dont see why I cant go 7.70-7.80's with it, when I can go 8.20's with my 6 cyl with really no more boost. Of course this is just thinking out loud, but should work right? My car weight is 3600 with me in it, or 3570 something like that.

 

[Quint]

F.S. All brand new,406 SBC with sb2.2 heads for turbo set up - Yellow Bullet Forums

this will get you there fo cheap!

Thank you sir. Nice engine, but we need to have buyer for the stage 2 engine we have now in Fear? We need a serious buyer, who wants a serious stage II engine, to free up the money to start project. If you know, let me know please and we can work something once I talk with Jan. 480-226-9194 is my cell, Thanks.

 

[John Wilde]

John, Bowman is now running twins? What size ?

Twin Pro Mod 88s

 

[John Wilde]

With the V8, spooling will not be an issue. Anything from a 91-106 will spool easily.

The extra 100# isn't a deal breaker. But making a car 60' well, on a small tire with extra nose weight doesn't make life easy.

I still think a 15* or 18* head small block will run 7.70's in a 3500# car without hurting parts. Extra focus will need to be placed on the coolant system to keep the heads cool with a conventional small block head. The best choice for a more serious small block head with a budget would be the BD2000 style head from Brodix.

To move a 3500# car into the 7.50's, things will have to be more serious.

We went a very easy 7.9 @ around 3500 lbs with Chow's car in 05.
The motor is around 390ci with 15* Dart heads.
Everything was done by Ken Duttweiler.
He might be willing to sell it I think he would rather build a big block for his new outlaw car. Opps did I say that out loud?

 

[Quint]

good info John, thanks. We will see who has got what, after we put engine up for sale first of 2010.

 

[jasjamz]

Fear is one of my favorite turbo buicks...Good Luck on the new project!

 

[Quint]

Fear is one of my favorite turbo buicks...Good Luck on the new project!

Thanks jasjamz. We will be taking Fear out Nov 7 and Nov 28th and Dec 4-5th to get good use of the new Strange Double Adjus/Coilover set up for the rear that was just put on. Should be hitting some good numbers with out pushing boost past 28-29#'s.