Well tell me what you guys think on this. I have a fast sequential system on my car and well the wideband o2 sensor has been working great up until yesterday. I changed the battery out and drove the car around. The wideband was working fine. I drove it to get aligned and on my way home I notice that the A/F ratio is pegged at 15.94. It has been sitting there now since yesterday. It doesnt move just sits on 15.94. I took the sensor out and turned the car on to see if the middle still lit up (thinking it was burned out) it still lights up and gets HOT as hell. Any ideas or suggestions would be extremely appreciated.
Wideband help (FAST sequential)
- Thread starter BoostedGT
- Start date
You might want to try calling FAST and ask them for a calibration file for the 02 sensor if you don't have one on hand. Your 02 sensor may just need to be recalibrated and then you need to get the file from FAST as it's specific to your ECU and so you'll need the info from it when you call (serial number etc. from the ECU itself). Your sensor still may have failed, or it may be something else causing it to peg at 15.95 is this is as high as the FAST will show. If it was truly reading correct then there would be obvious symptoms of a lean scenario when driving (popping, surging etc.)? But, my guess is your sensor is gone or it needs recalibrating... If you're replacing it you'll need the cal. file from FAST. I just bought my replacement directly from them because I learned the hard way!
Just some suggestions for you.
Spud
Just some suggestions for you.
Spud
Craig Smith
That was easy!
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
On the old units, the calibration file enables the widebadn feature. If the calibration settings aren't correct, the wideband won't even heat up. Good suggestion, but it won't solve the issue on this one.
You have a definite physical issue. Bad injector/spark plug/wire, fuel pump, possibly the sensor itself. Check the UEGOS value in the main dash - should be about 0.45 when running. Possible that if the sensor is bad this reading could still be right, but if it's off, it's new sensor time.
You have a definite physical issue. Bad injector/spark plug/wire, fuel pump, possibly the sensor itself. Check the UEGOS value in the main dash - should be about 0.45 when running. Possible that if the sensor is bad this reading could still be right, but if it's off, it's new sensor time.
Well I know the car is not running lean at all. Its blowing black smoke the entire length of the track because the CPU is just adding fuel adding fuel and adding more fuel because it *thinks* it is lean. The correction was at 14% which is the highest it goes I believe. I think there might be a possibility that I killed the sensor earlier in the day when I was driving around. The A/F ratio was 10 to 1 when I was cruising sometimes it dipped to 9.8 to 1 so the fuel might of killed it. Thanks Craig, I will check the voltage when I get home and see what it reads. Do you know if you can just purchase a L1H1 o2 sensor and take the resistor out of the old sensor and move it to the new one? I really dont know how this sensor has already gone out. It only has 13 dyno pulls, 20 track runs, and maybe at the most 400 miles on it.
Craig Smith
That was easy!
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Running that rich can kill it. Carbon and oil are the two biggest killers of O2 sensors. Sounds like the sensor has died.
Sure, you can swap the resistor, but the sensor won't be accurate anymore. That resistor is put in by NTK, not FAST, and your sensor will be off by an unknown amount by swapping resistor. It could be reading 11:1 and really be 13.7:1, so I would not recommend it.
Sure, you can swap the resistor, but the sensor won't be accurate anymore. That resistor is put in by NTK, not FAST, and your sensor will be off by an unknown amount by swapping resistor. It could be reading 11:1 and really be 13.7:1, so I would not recommend it.
The sensor is calibrated with a file that FAST would have to send you that's sensor specific. I don't know if the file is specific to the actual system, but I don't think so. When I replaced my FAST WB I first bought a NTK from a local parts store (Hondas used similar wide band O2s) and my system wouldn't recognize it. I ended up taking it back and then I bit the bullet and bought one straight from FAST for $475 I think.., yikes!!! However, when they sent me the sensor, they sent me a calibration file on a diskette. To calibrate it, I just followed the instructions that came with it, which was essentially enabling the option on C-com wp.
If you want, I can try and dig up the file and send it your way, but it is sensor specific and probably won't do lick for your scenario. Craig knows what he's talking about more than I though, and so I'd lean towards what he's saying. If it wasn't calibrated, it wouldn't heat up, and you said yours does, and so you probably have a failed sensor, because you also say it's running really rich while reading lean.
PM me if you want me to dig up the cal file, just for ****s and giggles...
Spud
If you want, I can try and dig up the file and send it your way, but it is sensor specific and probably won't do lick for your scenario. Craig knows what he's talking about more than I though, and so I'd lean towards what he's saying. If it wasn't calibrated, it wouldn't heat up, and you said yours does, and so you probably have a failed sensor, because you also say it's running really rich while reading lean.
PM me if you want me to dig up the cal file, just for ****s and giggles...
Spud
Well I too went and got a new sensor from Oreilleys and at first it didnt work when we plugged it to the FAST. However, we re-pinned the sensor and used the existing resister and it worked like a champ. Now as to how accurate the readings are is yet to be determined. I'll let you know on that one.
klawineagle
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2005
Craig is correct, replacing the resistor can cause the readings to be off. I have never heard of how off it can be, but have seen it happen in some cars at the tracks.
As for someone else sending you their option file to help you out, well that won't work either. The option files from FAST are setup for that ECU. If you have ever received an option file from FAST, you will notice that the file name is the serial number of your ECU. That is the only way that it can be programmed into your ECU to enable the O2 functions.
As for someone else sending you their option file to help you out, well that won't work either. The option files from FAST are setup for that ECU. If you have ever received an option file from FAST, you will notice that the file name is the serial number of your ECU. That is the only way that it can be programmed into your ECU to enable the O2 functions.
The ecu looks for a certain resister value before it will enable the 02. The resistor is installed by NTK and varies in value quite a bit from 02 to 02. Swapping the resister will make another sensor light up but it could be anywhere from dead on (unlikely) to really far off. If you could dig thru a big pile of 02s with an ohm meter you might find one that will plug and play.
There is talk of FAST releasing an option file to make the classic ecu's work with any L1H1 type 02.
Doug
There is talk of FAST releasing an option file to make the classic ecu's work with any L1H1 type 02.
Doug
Craig Smith
That was easy!
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
