Whats the hot ECU/ignition setup?

Running 7's how long did the coil pack/module last?

Never had an issue with longevity. Only issues I ever had was when everyone was trying to use the MSD DIS module that turned out to be complete garbage and caused all sorts of issues. Ended up pulling that off and going back to the stock coilpack setup.

The car was only running around 21-24 psi.
 
Interesting, If I have some spare time I will measure the coil pack current on the coil pack tester. I still think the MSD box will output more power.
 
norbs said:
Interesting, If I have some spare time I will measure the coil pack current on the coil pack tester. I still think the MSD box will output more power.

I should send you my tr-6 setup to measure along with that
 
Here's a test I did a few years ago of stock coil pack vs msd 7 box. I'll give you a hint the stock coil pack is not the one on the left...:confused:

plugs testing.jpg
 
Norbs, I have seen guys go pretty fast with the stock ignition, but they usually run real, real tight plug gaps
 
Norbs, I have seen guys go pretty fast with the stock ignition, but they usually run real, real tight plug gaps
I agree, but what is the disadvantage of tighting the plug gaps, vs a bigger gap?
 
When you say guys with DIS ignitions are running tight gaps on the plugs, how tight are you talking? I'm running 28 at the moment with NGK plugs.
 
When you say guys with DIS ignitions are running tight gaps on the plugs, how tight are you talking? I'm running 28 at the moment with NGK plugs.

As tight as it takes to keep from blowing out the spark. I know guys running .015 gap on real high HP applications.

One advantage to a CNP set up opposed to a distribtor that was not mentioned is that you no longer need to worry about rotor phase. For example if your phased in at 24* but you need say 38* to help spool, your getting pretty far from your rotor to cap alignment. This can cause issues with the spark jumping inside the cap to the wrong cylinder. Especially with a strong coil such as the HVC II.
 
As tight as it takes to keep from blowing out the spark. I know guys running .015 gap on real high HP applications.

One advantage to a CNP set up opposed to a distribtor that was not mentioned is that you no longer need to worry about rotor phase. For example if your phased in at 24* but you need say 38* to help spool, your getting pretty far from your rotor to cap alignment. This can cause issues with the spark jumping inside the cap to the wrong cylinder. Especially with a strong coil such as the HVC II.

See Post #16

Allan G.
 
Not much load on the rotor at low boost, I don;t think it would crossfire, same idea running 45 degrees timing at cruise with the rotor phased at 25, it doesn't cause cross-firing.
 
Not much load on the rotor at low boost, I don;t think it would crossfire, same idea running 45 degrees timing at cruise with the rotor phased at 25, it doesn't cause cross-firing.
Plenty of load while spooling on the brake. Plenty of juice to crossfire with an HVC II coil.
 
lazaris said:
Plenty of load while spooling on the brake. Plenty of juice to crossfire with an HVC II coil.

I would be concerned when at high boost it will fire to another terminal with lower load/resistance and I would be willing to bet that this isote susceptible on a small cap. Also cap venting is important to evacuate the ionized air.

Allan G.
 
I would be concerned when at high boost it will fire to another terminal with lower load/resistance and I would be willing to bet that this isote susceptible on a small cap. Also cap venting is important to evacuate the ionized air.

Allan G.
If this was an issue many distributor cars would not be running as well as they usually do,correct?
 
If this was an issue many distributor cars would not be running as well as they usually do,correct?

With small caps they have issues. I found that there can be spark scatter with unvented small caps. Adding more coil output and multiple spark will just make it worse and more prone to cross fire. As stated already, proper rotor phasing is important.
This is based on my experience before my Buick days.

Allan G.
 
With small caps they have issues. I found that there can be spark scatter with unvented small caps. Adding more coil output and multiple spark will just make it worse and more prone to cross fire. As stated already, proper rotor phasing is important. This is also why you see a lot of crab caps.
This is based on my experience before my Buick days.

Allan G.

Edit: sorry for the duplicate post.
 
Think of this logically, if you phased the rotor for 25 degrees for WOT and your crank timing was 40 crank degrees it would only more the rotor phasing 7.5 degrees off, and Yes I do agree venting the cap is very important. You were working on v8s before the Buick days? The v8s are spaced too close together so it is an issue. Going to a large cap is a better idea, but I would lose my AC......we can;t have that. Looks like we can reduce ionization by a few methods, from the MSD forum.....


regarding venting the cap.
- try venting the cap. Drill a 1/4 inch hole midway up the side of the cap between two of the poles and then drill another hole 180 degrees across from the original hole.
__________________
-I have several applications where I have connected a suck hose like from a header evacuation system or from a vacuum pumped engine to where I have a positive air movement induced thru the distributor cap.
-I pull the air out the bottom and allow the air into the top of the cap.
 
Think of this logically, if you phased the rotor for 25 degrees for WOT and your crank timing was 40 crank degrees it would only more the rotor phasing 7.5 degrees off, and Yes I do agree venting the cap is very important. You were working on v8s before the Buick days? The v8s are spaced too close together so it is an issue. Going to a large cap is a better idea, but I would lose my AC......we can;t have that. Looks like we can reduce ionization by a few methods, from the MSD forum.....


regarding venting the cap.
- try venting the cap. Drill a 1/4 inch hole midway up the side of the cap between two of the poles and then drill another hole 180 degrees across from the original hole.
__________________
-I have several applications where I have connected a suck hose like from a header evacuation system or from a vacuum pumped engine to where I have a positive air movement induced thru the distributor cap.
-I pull the air out the bottom and allow the air into the top of the cap.

Yes, that looks familiar.....

You may be OK but you have been talking about these megawatt ignition systems that can give you more oportunities for something to go wrong in the cap. If you think that going from an 8 cylinder cap to a 6 cylinder cap is the difference between make or break, It would not give me enough confort margine when adding more coil voltage. I'm not saying it won't work just trying to express some concerns and hopfully proper set-up will avoid any problems.

Allan G.
 
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