Some of you may have followed my engine problems, but to sum it up I have a 20 bolt OP hot air motor with a wiped out cam lobe 2 spun rod bearings and 1 spun main that locked the motor. The block and cranked should be salvagable with some machine work. I've got a complete carb turbo motor riding around in the back of my truck. The C/T motor sat outside for a while, it's pretty ugly but it turns over by hand nicely. I also found a rebuilt 3.8 short block with a 14 bolt pan and TC for a reasonable price. The guy that has the rebuilt motor dosen't know the history off it. I'm working on a tight budget but I want/need to get this car back on the road by the end of the year. I'm not looking to build a 11 sec car, just want a decent running stock car that I don't have to worry to much about blowing up. Which direction would you take? Rebuilding the motor that went out seems like the most costly alternative. I could open up the C/T motor and see what the bottom end looks like, switch it over to my hot air set up and cross my fingers. Or I could get the rebuilt shortblock and put my upper end on it. Thanks in advance.
What to do?
- Thread starter DWB47
- Start date
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
First thing is to be honest with yourself.
If in fact you are just going to drive around, at stock rpm/boost levels, any of the blocks will do, if assembled correctly.
While it is ALWAYS cheaper to do it right the first time, I can fully appreciate the budget constraints as well.
Budget always takes precedence over goals . . . . Therefore, pick the least expensive options based on your budget constraints.
Keep in mind that down the road, you may need to do this again if you start thinking about 11 seconds.
If you can swing the 14 bolt block, get it, but, have it checked out completely if there is no history, or you will be shooting yourself in the foot.
The blosk with the correct pistons, crank and rods will be strong enough into the 10's if done correctly.
The C/T block will do just as well.
If it is factory assembled, clean it up, replace the bearings, CHECK THE CAM for wear, put the upper end on it and let it roll.
Anyway, that is what I would do. Hope this helps. :smile:
Jerryl
Tall Unvaccinated Chinese Guy
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2004
Can't answer the cam question, sorry.:redface: Most likely different, but may still work for what you are trying to do.
You may want to pst in the befor black section, and do a search in that section.
You can also throw in the Speedpro 204/214 cam with new lifters, assemble with ZDDP paste, break it in correctly, run the the right springs, get the heads redone, and run good oil with ZDDP.
If you want a better cam go with the 86-87 cam. If you want to do a slight upgrade there's lots of options. The 204/214 cam will work well but you need to make sure to check clearance on the pistons and valve guides. A slightly smaller cam will work as well. this has been discused many times (and cussed as well LOL) so do some research.
I just found out that the short block that I am looking at has a NA crank. I hear that they aren't the best route to go for a turbo motor. I'm hoping for low 14's to high 13's. What are the chances that a NA crank will hold up? Or should I just forget it and go a different route.
Since I built an NA engine for my first Buick I doubt you'll have a problem if you are just doing a stock build. You're probibly good to 300 HP but over that you will need a better crank. It will flex more but unless you're going to race it or hammer on it I don't think you're going to have a problem.
