what to do next

blackdeathtrap

smoking six barrel
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
heres my current set up where should i go next to get biggest gain im in no rush so lost of time for discusion
i have 87 gn t top.
solid body new stainless t top frames.
oil press water temp volt boost and casper knock gauge scan master and tac with shift light fuel pressur gauge on the hood.
tt street chip il double check but its 16 to 18 psi with 18 degres of timing , billet fuel press reg adj , 3 dp 3 inch duel exhaust magnaflow (sounds gorguse),race tronix hot wire kit, walbro 340 pump, new fuel tank, stainless fuel lines, 4 inch tin man intake, 3.5 inch zr1 maf, translator,3 inch maf pipe, mild port and polish heads and intake manifold,by pass tb coolant line, stock turbo, stock ic eibach 1.5 in lowering springs mickey thompson street et radials 275 50 15 on 8.5 american racing outlaw 1 wheels 215 70 14 le radial turbo actions up front tubular upper control arms gutted front bumper. i run bfg radial tas on stock rims 235 60 15 and 215s in the front mostly on the street because dont like paying 270 a tires every season for new et street radials.
what should i expect with all these mods sieng i havent gotten to drive it since it was basicaly bone stock.
dos any one have aprox same mods so i can get an idee what il run et wise and how much power will this give me.i wanna know i just cant wait till next week end to drive it


what should be next bigger injectors more boost
bigger turbo
better inter cooler
or go to the dark side and get alky razor kit and turn boost up
or is there some other small things such as egr delete and some other things that would be cheap hp
 
i am also wondering if i should leave my stock intercooler shroud off or put it back on its in pretty ruff shape
 
since i didnt see it listed if you plan to make any power the car will need a trans upgrade.then race fuel or alky to raise the boost i prefer the alky.a wideband to dial it in or someone dialing the car in for you.
 
i new id forget something i have a fresh tranny with all the goodies and a b&m shift kit and tranny cooler just needs a tq coverter when i decide what size turbo.
and i also have a th400 built for 700 hp incase the 200r4 lets go i also have a mild th300 as a backup built up as well
 
also other then go fast parts im gonna get all those braces from kirbans ei front fram brace connecting brace under hood brace and seat brace thinking of maybe doing a b pillar bar for harness next winter.
im thinking my best bet for more power is te 49, 2800 tq converter, progressive alky and 60#injectors and some replacement ta headers to insure mine make it more then one season thats gonna be next winter project unless any one thinks there a better way of getting into the 11s . followed by paint (fiber glass hood trunk and bumpers)
 
to be more specific i wanna pull a low 11 high 10 with around 400 some hp what do i need to ad to what i have to hit those numbers
will
alky #60 or 80# injectors te49 (or bigger)proper tq converter get me there or will i need more ei cam 72 mm tb and dog house heads fmic or stech ic
or is this just a pipe dream with a stock bottom end
 
street tune and beat on it for zero knock......get some seat time and go from there.
 
thats why i just wanna do the big upgrades next winter after i get a full summer of seat and track time with my new monster mostly what i wanna know is my goal posible or will i need heads a cam tb dog house a very large turbo and fmic or can i reach it with alky te 49 or 44 60# inj a tq converter and a slic or fmic and a very good tune with a wide band egt and power loger. basicaly the point of this threat is to know what to plan for next ass long as noting catastrofic happens over this season
 
Low 11 to high 10s is going to need more turbo than the TA49.

80lb injectors, 6262 Turbo, true 2800 stall from Dusty (N/L preferable), ported heads, ported intake, good tires, 30+ PSI and a good sixty foot should do it for you. Race gas would make it easier to run the times. I am not sure if 93 and alky will allow you to run that much boost.
 
got er going today wen for a drive
wot no knock after some fine tuning turned translator up to 3 on wot
this is were im comfused at idel af is 3 blm is 140 int is 127 tps ,44 iac is 15 should i richen my idel 10 percent would that fix my issue car runs amazing other then that my chip should be in this week end i might just wait and run it again then and se if my problemes solve
on a good note at full boost all the way true all 4 guears not knock no retard
 
here all my numbers
line of fp pressure 43 psi line on 42
af 04
int 128
blm 149
cle 173
r 750
tps.44
iac 15
o2 mill bettween 410 and 578 at idel
im thinking of just adding 10 percent at idel on the translator
 
i understand that there high meaning im in a lean situation. my confusion commes from the fact that at wide open throlle im pulling 16 psi tires spining car sideways lots of power 0 knock 0 timming retard translator set at 4 so 8% at wot. so im going to try seting base maf to 2 wich is 10 % richer idel i think this will sort out my issue. im asuming that with my new chip with better timming to fuel curve il completely.remove the need of having the the 8 percent at wot and 10 at idel hopefully and if not im pretty shure it will be just as easy to adjust timming and fuel to remove my current issue.

on another note on every now an them my casper knock gauge stick aka on light stays on i have to shut car of and fire it up again for it to reset to normal operation i unpluged gauge turned car on then off then pluged gauge back in it hasnt done it since hope it was just a gremlin
 
test run hot idel blm 130 int 127 at hot idel but .9 timing retard at wot so imthinking out more number on wot so 10 % richer translator and should be perfect. some one chime in if im not going in the right direction
 
Top