What has to be replaced every time?

imjoesnuffy

I just break stuff!
Joined
Sep 13, 2005
I am gonna tackle the rebuild myself, have the tools, DVD, a couple different books and some friends I can call. 50/50 chance I will have to tear into more than once, but I got all winter. I am just going to tear it down to the direct clutches. I don't need the O-rings for the forward drum, input shaft or center support.

So specifically, what gaskets need to be replaced every time, what can be re-used if not damaged? I see kits from $40-$400.

Trans runs great but has developed a 2-3 flare. Currently not dual fed, and has trapped as high as 132, it is to be expected.
 
Just get a gasket and seal kit about $75 lasttime I checked..been a while. Replace pump gasket and valve body gaskets everytime. No need to replace the rubber seals/bushings/clutches unless you want to,but not much more work while you are already in there. I believe if you don't want to build your collection of extra gaskets/seals you can buy just the gaskets on line.
 
Why not dual feed it and be done? Other wise you are just going to keep killing the directs.
 
I am gonna tackle the rebuild myself, have the tools, DVD, a couple different books and some friends I can call. 50/50 chance I will have to tear into more than once, but I got all winter. I am just going to tear it down to the direct clutches. I don't need the O-rings for the forward drum, input shaft or center support.

So specifically, what gaskets need to be replaced every time, what can be re-used if not damaged? I see kits from $40-$400.

Trans runs great but has developed a 2-3 flare. Currently not dual fed, and has trapped as high as 132, it is to be expected.

Hi, I would disassemble it all to the direct drum if that’s where you are comfortable. It is quite easy, no books really needed. Break everything down section by section and clean, inspect and reseal. Install new clutches for you application and reassemble. I can supply you with anything you may need. I build the billet parts which many reputable vendors have been using. I can supply the correct clutches and band also. Call me, I will be more than happy to talk to you and discuss the process.
 
Which way does the 3-4 accumulator go back in? I see it two different ways in two different books.

A. Piston pin, piston cup facing the plate, then spring. Piston is down in the bore.

B. Piston pin, spring, piston cup facing down. Piston sitting on top of the spring at the top of the bore.
 
Which way does the 3-4 accumulator go back in? I see it two different ways in two different books.

A. Piston pin, piston cup facing the plate, then spring. Piston is down in the bore.

B. Piston pin, spring, piston cup facing down. Piston sitting on top of the spring at the top of the bore.

This is literally the last thing I am waiting on before putting it back in the car. I just noticed the difference in pics last night. The trans is completely assembled, just much easier to fix it on the stand now obviously. In the Haynes manual it has it as B, in Chris CK's book the pic has it as A, in Chris CK's book the diagram is B, in the TCI shift kit instructions it is B.
 
I use the A method which is stock in our cars. Think that the other method was used from the factory in non-performance applications.
 
On my KTF the piston was down in the bore first when I tore it down just as the ASTG shows . I used the B&M Transpak kit ( shoulda went Transgo or CK ) , I'm told . B&M is very specific and insists you flip the piston & spring . Please somebody take a stab at this and tell me what B&M's reasoning is or just a guess or opinion . The suspense is killing me . ( little exageration ) . Bottom line - - should I change it back ?
 
Pay attention and keep track of the snap ring with the beveled edge upon tear down and put it back where it belongs
 
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