Well I did the F-Body radiator, my thoughts

[d0n_3d]

All things considered for those thinking about it, I would've gone with a nice stock style radiator instead. By the time you add up all the nonsense that I needed to make the swap happen (longer hoses, oil cooler, misc fittings) trying to find a place to make the hoses, then I overtightned the fittings and needed to have them fixed. All the down time. Not worth it.

IMO if you're noob and need to a radiator, get yourself a quality dropin that will bolt right up. The F-Body radiator cost me more to do when everything is factored in and I had alot of down time.

Just my 2 cents, that being said it seems to work well. I do regret going that route though.

I'm not trying to make you look dumb, but I've done two of these radiators in my car and quite honestly you are wasting your time trying to run an oil cooler. Is it NOT needed if you are running a 160 degree thermostat in the motor. The oil will be cool I promise. The radiator fits just like a stocker and has the same locations for upper and lower radiator hoses. Not to mention the weight savings. The aluminum radiator cools much better than the stocker as well. If you are doing a front mount intercooler I highly encourage you spend the money on a Spal 12" dual fan setup.

 

[Sinical]

I'm not trying to make you look dumb, but I've done two of these radiators in my car and quite honestly you are wasting your time trying to run an oil cooler. Is it NOT needed if you are running a 160 degree thermostat in the motor. The oil will be cool I promise. The radiator fits just like a stocker and has the same locations for upper and lower radiator hoses. Not to mention the weight savings. The aluminum radiator cools much better than the stocker as well. If you are doing a front mount intercooler I highly encourage you spend the money on a Spal 12" dual fan setup.

I appreciate the info and no harm done....the tranny lines however won't line up with the f-body rad so you'll need lines for that. Again, I overpaid on the lines and I hope someone learns from my mistake.

 

[d0n_3d]

I ran a standalone B&M tranny cooler with a small Spal fan on it right up front and ran my own pushlock hose. Piece of cake. The tranny deserves a standalone cooler anyways.

 

[Louie L.]

I just did one about 3 weeks ago. Including dual fans and wiring I had about 2 easy hours. I deleted the oil cooler. I had just over 300.00 in it and that included 240.00 dual Spal fans. The one I did prior to that took me about 1hr with a stock fan and doing new hoses and T stat.

 

[Sinical]

Can anyone point me to the lines/couplings I will need to use my B&M oil cooler as a tranny fluid cooler instead? I would rather not to go to the same place as before....I'm gonna ditch the oil cooler all together I think.

 

[excobraguy]

Can anyone point me to the lines/couplings I will need to use my B&M oil cooler as a tranny fluid cooler instead? I would rather not to go to the same place as before....I'm gonna ditch the oil cooler all together I think.

Here's what I did. I left my original tranny hard lines in tact, the ones from the tranny to the cooler in the old radiator. My new B&M kit came with 2 adapters that fit on the old lines. I screwed those on, they had the inverted flare ends for sliding the hose on. I secured my hoses on these fittings with the supplied clamps. I then mounted my tranny cooler with the supplied bracket kit and then attached the rubber lines to the cooler. I ordered the B&M kit, here is the link to the kit I ordered Jegs cooler

 

[speedosack]

I did the swap for cheap, here's how. You will be utilizing the factory oil cooler hoses with two extension hoses to an auxiliary engine oil cooler. :biggrin: All the factory lines will remain in place, unmolested, you are simply building extensions for the factory lines.:biggrin: This variety of radiator has an internal transmission oil cooler. The radiator bolts up perfect but you will have to custom bend some transmission cooler lines to reach the back of the radiator where the trans oil cooler fittings are located (factory radiator has extension tubes going to front of radiator, you won't be using these). Bending trans cooler extension lines will require an inverted flare tool, some bending expertise, and a lot of patience. I can't tell you the amount of times I bent the tubing perfect, double flared the ends, and then realized I forgot to slip the tube nuts on the tubing. You could take the easy way out and use rubber hose/tubing. I prefer hard lines when possible, no hose clamps, no leaks. Ever.

[autozone]
438162 radiator (1987 monte carlo): $108.99
rubber hose for the remote coolant tank to new radiator (outlet port on new radiator is in a different location): $2-3
5/16" steel inverted flare fuel line, 4 feet (I actually used 5/16" Aluminum tube from smallparts.com-much easier to bend): $8-9

[jegs.com]
130-70273 B&M oil cooler (any cooler will do but make sure it has 1/2" female NPT inlet and outlet fittings, the ID is ~0.84" BIG): $63.99
771-105 nylon tie mount kit: $5.99

[discounthydraulichose.com]
3384-08 1/2" black push lock hose, 8 feet: $8.80
271-0808 1/2" push lock x 1/2" male pipe swivel (2 fittings thread into auxiliary engine oil cooler): $8.70
292-0812 1/2" push lock x 1/2" inverted flare female (2 fittings attach to the 2 factory engine oil cooler lines): $8.46
3105-05 5/16" Inverted Flare Tube Nut (4 of these for your 2 custom bent trans oil cooler lines): $1.24

Follow basic directions from F-Body Radiator Installation
Before the install I would suggest filling the remote engine oil cooler with a known quantity of rubbing alcohol in order to know how much engine oil you need to add to the system. After draining the alcohol the remainder will evaporate from the oil cooler if you leave it in the sun for a bit. Mine took an extra 20 ounces. PM me with any questions. You won't believe how much lighter the new system is as the radiator is Aluminum core and plastic sides with the same exact dimensions as the factory unit.

 

[87GN_70GS]

The 438162 core is 1-1/8" thick. Here are some thicker radiators:

1-1/4" core (92 F-body 5.7):
Spectra Premium CU951 $134 Advance Auto

1-5/16" (91 Century 3.3, has 2 TOC):
Ready-Rad 432140 $147 AutoZone

1-5/16" (91 Century 2.5, has TOC on drivers side):
Ready-Rad 433963 $125 AutoZone

And the thickest I could find
1-3/8" (95 Lumina APV 3.1, has 2 TOC):
Ready-Rad 432397 $186 Autozone

 

[imjoesnuffy]

I already did the F-Body swap. It went smooth for me. Sorry to hear about your mishaps.

I recently started scratching my head as to why in the world, whoever designs the tranny cooler lines put them right against the crossover like that??? Makes no sense to me at all. On the return line, won't the fluid just get heated again? Thinking about making my own lines and upgrading my trans cooler. Here is the parts list I came up with from Summit. $225ish before their handling charges, if you are happy with your tranny cooler take off $97 off of that for a total of $129. Sorry if this is to off subject, but was really scratching my head when you stated $300 for the lines. Makes me wonder if I am forgetting something?


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

BMM-70274 Fluid Cooler, Engine/Transmission, Plate-Type, Aluminum, Black, 11 in. x 11 in. x 1 1/2 in., Each $96.95 $96.95 Found this cooler doing a search and it is good for up to 29,000 GVW

SUM-220647 Fitting, Adapter, Straight, Male -6 AN to Male 1/4 in. NPT, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Each $2.75 $5.50 To go into the F-Body radiator.

SUM-220649 Fitting, Adapter, Straight, Male -6 AN to Male 1/2 in. NPT, Aluminum, Blue Anodized, Each $3.95 $7.90 To go into the tranny cooler.

SUM-220655 Fitting, Adapter, 45 Degree, Male -6 AN to Male 1/4 in. NPT, Aluminum, BlueAnodized, Each $6.75 $13.50 To go into the transmission.

SUM-220687 Fitting, Hose End, 90 Degree, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, Each $13.95 $27.90 T o make the install onto the end of the tranny cooler much easier and neater. Wont have to make a big loop with the lines.

SUM-220690 Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, Each $4.88 $19.52 For the end of the lines.

SUM-230615 Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -6 AN, 15 ft. Length, Each $54.95 $54.95

I have read about the quick connects, but think I am gonna pass on them as I have read about some issues with them. I have never done braided lines, anybody see anything I missed??

 

[ThatDamGoldCar]

OMG

 

[twodafloor]

Fbody rad

This mod dropped my temps over 20 degrees which equals cheap power

 

[at7we2]

just wanted to post-up since I've been down this road but I went the other direction....

I found a good deal on an F-body radiator ($99 bucks, new) then monkeyed around with hoses, cooler, etc. like you did. I had everything almost installed then I got a wild hair, and yanked it all out and replaced it with a very nice aftermarket aluminum radiator. In retrospect, I wish I had just stayed with the F-body radiator. Even with new hoses, I only had about $300 invested in the conversion. (I think you got hosed at your hose shop! :tongue: $300 for hoses?! )

Based on what I've read on here, I believe the F-body radiator would have worked just a well as the whiz-bang custom radiator I went with. I like the combo oil/trans. cooler TNX posted a picture of. If I was going to do it again, I'd try an F-body radiator and a large combo cooler like that.

My 2-cents.

Rob

 

[scot w.]

How come knowone is using the internal radiator cooler?

What about this senario:

Trans lines going to the internal cooler!
Removing the Oil cooler lines completely!
Staying with the stock single fan!

Has anyone done it this way?

If so, How well does it work?

Scot W.

 

[Black Power]

How come knowone is using the internal radiator cooler?

What about this senario:

Trans lines going to the internal cooler!
Removing the Oil cooler lines completely!
Staying with the stock single fan!

Has anyone done it this way?

If so, How well does it work?

Scot W.

Scot,

I bought a used radiator from my buddy (fbod) for $50.

I am using the trans lines going into the cooler. I also decided to use an auxiliary cooler for a little extra cooling.

I am not running the oil cooler lines. I have a turbo luber remote mounted filter and I just took that part off. It goes from the stock filter adapter straight to the turboluber.
I am using the stock single fan.

Keep in mind I am in Texas and Arkansas, it's really hot in both places. My car runs fine in town and on the highway. I am currently building a 4.1 with a Precision FMIC and I am still expecting it to run ok in town temperature-wise.

I decided that if it got hot I could do dual fans but it's been good to me so far.

Will