Contrary to what you may read, low lift numbers are pretty important with forced induction engines. I would recommend that whatever you decide to go with, do not use perfect circle style teflon valve seals, or bronze guides/liners. Use iron guides/liners, and fel-pro stock style seals. Ive recommended to many people that they stick with the stock size valves, (bigger valves hurt flow if you dont increase the bore on alot of engines) but do a 3 angle back cut on them, as well as alot of valve pocket work. You want a Serdi cut seat, where it starts with a 15, goes to a 45, then does a airfoil shaped curve into the pocket, instead of a straight 60 and a 75 like the old school stone grinder guys use (I used to do stones, then moved to a Serdi and there was no comparison at all when considering the huge low lift flow increases) Then raise both ports to the gasket, while only removing flash from the floors. Polish a smooth curve on the short side radius with NO flat spots, and remove ALL sharp edges, especially in the valve pocket. Increase the width of the ports, out to the gasket, at the lower end of the port, and only remove flash from the sides, on the roof of the port. You'll end up with a trapezoidal shaped runner. This will give you a higher average flow rate throughout the runner, as opposed to all the velocity being in the roof and the inner curve of the runner. The floor is normally somewhat dead, and this will move the air mass more toward the center and gain you alot of flow without killing velocity. And flow bench numbers arent everything. A flow bench isnt dynamic. The vacuum signal on an engine is a curve and a spike, and a reversion, and a drop, etc.....and a flow bench cant simulate it.
