Water in clear coat! Help!!!!
- Thread starter RICER X
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2010
Dab it carefully with a piece of paper towel or q-tip
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Ok that got up the water but left a ring should I hit it with mild air till completely dry and hit it with straight thinner or more clear its poly
Ok guys, thanks! Tbone sorry didn't see your post until after a ask the last question. Well it looks like I know what I will be doing in a couple days. This is why I hate painting, no mater how much you prep there's always a new gremlin to contend with. Anyway thanks for the extremely fast response guys. That's why I love this place, everybody is out to help!
Thanks. Ok I know this is going to sound pretty lame but I have no knowledge about buffing clear coat, I am totally self taught. I think there are only 4 or 5 body shops in my whole town. So when I'm done and I want to get rid of the orange peel however so much. What is the best route to take? Everything looks good so far but it seems to happen a lot to me. I bought a new Eastwood gun and it seemed to do a good job on everything but the hood. So I think it's something on my end. It kind of looked like there was air bubbles in the clear that popped after I shot it. Not to bad but still I see it and you guys know that really is all that counts.
Sand and buffing takes more experience probably than painting. But when u can fix your mistakes there less likely to happen lol but happens. Always use a water separator atleast one cheap one that will screw on your gun. Sand and buffing is a process and also depends on what brand clear and how hard it gets. Sometimes I can buff out 1000 grit no problem and sometimes I have to step up to 1500 then even 2000 and even 3000 to get it to buff out. Some stays soft then haze back out and some clear gets so hard that u really have to put lots of heat in it to come out. Just try not to sand to close to the edges if u do not know how to buff to keep from burning the paint.
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Yes cutting compound I use presta a lot and cut it a little with water and 3m #1 a.d then finish with some finesse. People have there preferences but it works in most cases. U can use a da just be careful to what paper u use. Curly qu's is a pain to get out if u get your paper contaminanted. Wet sanding is less likely bu can still happen. A orbital buffer will not do it u have to have a higher speed buffer to put some heat in it. I will usually use a wool pad the come back with a black foam pad to Finnish with finesse. That is usually the quickest for me cause win u have to sand and buff a 45ft motorhome your arms are about to fall off...
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I have a 600.00 Dryer system on my compressor just for the reason of taking contamination out of the air line seen it meany times a near perfect paint job get messed up.it's almost always near the end because the compressor has been running and builds heat leading to moisture
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Thanks guys. I like the eye dropper trick, it makes sense. And the dryer is on my list. My problem has been cash flow, two daughters in college, well one getting ready to start. Just bought the youngest a new car because my kids just can't go to a local college. Which she took out a deer on the interstate. Then was informed that it only had liability on it. 
Somehow this was my fault because we have to many cars. Seriously it's a new car. Then the other one calls me 1/2 way to the beach and says hers overheated. When I asked if it got into the red, she said yes, for a long time until it just shut off. After I got that all back together she hits a deer! I started building a garage a few years ago which still has a dirt (MUD) floor . WAAAA, well life is good. I can start my upgrades on my GN after I paint my truck. Oh yeah the frame snapped on it and the spring went thru the gas tank. NEXT! Anyway thanks guys I knew I could count on you.
Somehow this was my fault because we have to many cars. Seriously it's a new car. Then the other one calls me 1/2 way to the beach and says hers overheated. When I asked if it got into the red, she said yes, for a long time until it just shut off. After I got that all back together she hits a deer! I started building a garage a few years ago which still has a dirt (MUD) floor . WAAAA, well life is good. I can start my upgrades on my GN after I paint my truck. Oh yeah the frame snapped on it and the spring went thru the gas tank. NEXT! Anyway thanks guys I knew I could count on you.And what causes the little zits in clear poly sometimes. It looks like air bubbles that busted. Any cure? Or is this the cause of a bad filtration. All I have ever used is the disposable filter yet I've seen it happen in high dollar setups sometimes too.
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its called solvent popping the underneath coats of clear are drying slower then the upper coats causing the gas bubbles(solvent) difficulty trying to escape. caused sometimes because of to much drying time between coats not keeping the the coats tacky to wet or using a slower reducer then going to a faster reducer which is a no no
