Wanting to upgrade front brakes, but with stock GN wheels. Possible??

[Addicted2boost]

I know 12" rotors won't clear the GN wheel, is there any other car I can use larger than stock rotors/calipers from to fit on my GN? I was thinking the drilled and slotted rotors with some performance pads, but I haven't heard any news weather they are any better than stock. I will upgrade my hoses with steel braided soon, but I want to do it all at once. I have the all big shoes and the larger wheel cylinders in the back, but I just need some more stopping power from the front without switching wheels/tires/spacers and alot of money for a baer setup. What to do??

 

[GNVAIR]

70-81 F body spindles and 11" rotors or 73-77 A body spindles and 11" rotors or 77-91 b body spindles and 11" rotors (not from wagon or police package)
All other modifications for the 12" b body swap such as upper control arms, etc will apply to it.

 

[Two Lane]

If you stay with stock size, look at the Power Slot rotors at
www.tirerack.com

120.00 for the top-of-the-line units

Gas slots are fine---cross-drilling is not.

HTH

 

[Silver 6]

This is one part of the combination I am looking at. I want to keep it small enough to fit under the 14" wheels on a 79 Regal Sport Coupe.

http://www.usbrake.com/racer.html

 

[turbofish38]

The stock rotors are 10.5". IMO the upgrade to the 11" isnt worth the hassle. What do you want to do to with your car and why do you think you need bigger brakes? I think the stock brakes with maybe some performance friction type pads are a pretty good set up as long as you aren't planning on going 150 MPH or faster than 10's. I've done some open track events in my GN with the same set up you have now and as long as you know the limitations of the stock brakes than you shouldn't have any problems. For example I am able to pass a Vette or Viper on the straight, brake for the corner with them tight on my bumper, go through the corner and still out accelerate them to the next corner. Its not something I reccomend to the inexperienced but for the street nothing IMO beats the stock brakes properly set up. Eric Fisher

 

[GNVAIR]

The 11" brakes do offer a substantial improvement in braking in quite a few areas.
First off, the rotors are thicker. Second you do have more swept area. Third is the caliper pistons are substantially larger .........and they wont fit a G body spindle.
I had Performance Friction pads on my car when it had stock brakes. No improvement in fade resistance or rotor warpage. They just caused more brake dust.
The 11" set up with the spindles I mentioned will also enhance the geometry of the front end. Your only other option would be to call and speak to Baer racing. But I doubt you would be able to fit their stuff inside stock wheels.
Good luck with whatever you decide on.

 

[JFH]

Check out www.aerospacecomponents.com

John

 

[turbofish38]

Yes Lee, I agree with you about the bigger rotors and pistons but to use them you have to buy the control arms which by the time you add in the price of even used spindles and rotors you are halfway towards the purchase of a Baer system. If somebody came out with a budget set of arms they could become rich overnight. $500 plus for a set of arms puts the big brakes out of the reach of the average guy. Eric

 

[matt87]

i love my power slots with performance friction pads, plus the s10 cylinders out back, thing stops really good!

 

[Addicted2boost]

Thanks for the reply guys!!!
If I consider the 11" F,A,B body spindles, would I have to do ANY welding at all? I have heard of people having to weld on caliper supports. I consioder my car pretty fast, (11.53 in the 1/4) I think I am waaay past due upgrading the brakes even more. The rear setup is good on my car now, but now it's time to upgrade the fronts. I know the slotted with better pads will improve my braking some, but would it match the 11" brake setup listed? Also do I need to buy different ball joints if I use the 11's? So all I need would be the spindle, caliper, bearings and seals and rotors??? I am also going to assume that the lug pattern is the same???? Would I also need to replace the brass valve on the frame under the drivers side floorboard to accomidate the increased front stopping power to deliver alittle more brake fluid to the rear to prevent wheel lockup on panic stops? I'm just trying to gather all the info I need. Thanks for your help again.
Casey

 

[KendallF]

Casey,

Give me a call..I have a lot of info that will help. I did the 12" swap on the T-type, and had Jimmy Britts fabricate my control arms. Let's just say that they will be substantially cheaper than the GW or even the ones Robert Adams sells. I even have one of the B-body spindles for the 11" rotors as I picked up one from the yard by mistake.

See the link below for info on the swap:

http://home.attbi.com/~frederik/ttype/brakes.htm

 

[arista5]

i can probably do slotted rotors for 75 each plus shipping (not the 110 from tire rack)